No Clue, Can Somebody Help!!

[jmchambers83]

Ok, so I finally got around to checking the spark plugs. Now I have a new question though. Does anyone have a color diagram of spark plug conditions?

My Clymer's manual is about 26 years old and does not have color pics so I have an idea of what they are supposed to look like but not 100%.

Numbers 1, 2, and 3 all looked the same (slightly grey on the tips and the bottom exposure to the valve), which according to the discription in the manual was normal. The number 4 plug however, had some carbon fouling which the manual said was caused by either a cold plug, a bad mixture, or dirty air filter.

The air filter isn't the cleanest in the world but why wouldn't the other 3 have the same condition?

[Steve]

Does anyone have a color diagram of spark plug conditions?

Here is one.

Here is another.

Here is a third.

Here is a fourth.

These were found with a simple Google search for "spark plug color".

.

[jmchambers83]

Thanks Steve. That helps out a lot. I don't want to seem like I'm lazy but usually when I get online it's at work during my break so I don't have a lot of time to do research. I really appreciate your help though!

[jmchambers83]

Alright, I am coming back to my old thread. I finally replaced the air filter, the rubber boots and clamps between the carbs and airbox (the old ones were dried out and weren't fitting correctly), I put weather stripping on the air filter housing cover and this cured the stalling issue.
I went for a ride today, about 30 miles or so, and when I got back I turned the bike off and tried to turn it back on just for s#!&s and giggles to see if it cured the problem of not starting once the engine is hot. It still wouldn't start!! After I let it sit for about 5 mins (like before with the stalling issue) it started right up. Anyone have any suggestions?

[mcloud]

My 2 cents here, though not familiar with the 750T carbs.
Is your petcock original?
Does it have 3 positions: on, reserve and prime?
If it's on prime, you might be floading your bowls.
Have you checked float height adjustment?

[jmchambers83]

My 2 cents here, though not familiar with the 750T carbs.
Is your petcock original?
Does it have 3 positions: on, reserve and prime?
If it's on prime, you might be floading your bowls.
Have you checked float height adjustment?

Not sure if the petcock is original but it does have the three positions, I am aware of how the prime position works but I haven't checked the float height adjustment. Is that tricky to do? Haven't pulled the carbs apart yet. Thanks for your help mccloud!

[mcloud]

Check the fuel system section in your Clymers, should be well detailed/explained.
I've done mine with the carbs off when I rebuild them.
Could be a bit trickier whith them mounted on the bike, but feasable.
Maybe Tracy Borchert or Vasser could help you on that.
The gas smell is a clue you might be floading the carbs.
Have you taken them apart for a total dippin, cleaning and new o'rings?

[jmchambers83]

Sounds good, I'll dig through my clymers. Nope, I haven't touched the carbs other than taking them off and on for the airbox boot swap. I really have no experience with carbs so I'm really reluctant. Especially since I'm just trying to get by until the winter and then I'll rip the bike apart and learn to rebuild everything without losing riding time!

[Steven Conlan]

Dont know for sure

I am not sure when it comes to bikes - but -
If you were having this problem in a car.
Just to make sure I understand.
When hot the starter cranks slow or not at all.
I would check the starter for overdraw when hot. This was a common problem when I was younger and working as a wrench.
When a starter is going it sometimes will draw too much juice when hot.
Let it cool - cranks fine.
I may be way off on this - but with a meter - and a hot bike - should be easy to remove the starter as your problem.
Good luck.

[jmchambers83]

Steven,
This makes more sense than any response I've heard so far. I was kind of waiting to see if anyone had thoughts on the starter or electrical. The thought that it was flooding didn't make sense to me because this wouldn't be a hot start problem it would be a cold start problem as well. I think this is going to be my next course of action. Thanks Man.

[jmchambers83]

Ok, so I had a couple of days off so I decided to get to the root of this problem once and for all. I finally got it figured out.
Since I was checking the starter for overdraw I figured why not pull the starter and see what it looks like inside. Well, two of the wires (one negative and one positive) going to the brushes were not connected securely. They were just sort of touching the brushes, so I'm guessing at some point when the bike got hot they were not making contact. I reconnected the wires and put the starter back in. She fired right up better than ever before! I let it warm up for about ten minutes and then went for a 20 minute ride. Came back to the house and shut her down then immediately started her back up. Voila!! She came right back to life! So it seems like my bike is good and ready to go to the lakes region of NH in two weeks for a two day 600-700 mile ride! (keep my fingers crossed though) Thanks everyone for your help. I have been learning a lot from this website and from everyone on here. The GSR is a life saver!