progress/help on gs850l bought few weeks back

[buckeyemike]

I posted a few weeks back on the 82 gs850l. well I have taken it slow for several reasons checking this and that fogging engine before trying to start etc. well today I started her. Ok so her is how she is behaving and I thank all who imputs what I should do next.

Thanks to all who is willing to read this and comment on the whole think.

1. Started with choke on and goes up to 3k-4k with choke. try to take choke off or rev and she dies. I can just give it a tiny goose and she revs alittle but then will die. Seems to be able to run with choke indefinetaly.

2. First started exhaust was dark and oily for say 15+ minutes and then it has cleared up and exhaust looks fine now.

3. Started spins it seems alittle extra sometimes when it is trying to start, no grinds or anything? is this normal.

4. It looked like exhaust/smoke was coming out by where exhaust pipe 1 is connected to engine.

5. looked like exhaust/smoke was coming out from boots that connect the carbs to engine.

6. Engine seemed to get extremely hot. hot as in long after the exhaust pipe were cool it was still hot to the touch?

7. Started to backfire more and more as I ran it while trying to use throttle, no backfire when just on choke.

Notes: no air filter currently it was a soupy mess so I cleaned box and through out foam and closed box for now. sprayed some wd-40 on throttle mechanism by carbs to free throttle up a few weeks backs(could be smoke). gas tank removed am using a brand new plastic portable tank I made to make sure I had no dirty fuel issues. spark plugs probably extremely dirty due to all that startup burnoff.
Have oring kits for carbs and boots from site have not used. These orings for boots go on which boots? I do have manuals. I think that is it for now thanks for anyone who spends the time to read this lengthy mess.

I have to do this off and on so I might pop in here now and then due to kids and the fact wife is not all that keen on motorcyle idea. thanks again

[Dogma]

1, 6?, 7? Without the air filter there will not be enough vacuum in the intake for the carbs to draw fuel, except on choke. The choke is not really a choke but a richening circuit that stops as soon as you open the throttle. You need a filter in there. Also make sure the air box joints are sealed, and that the carb boots and o-rings are in good condition, as these will all tend to lean out the mix, cause overheating, and erratic idle. These bikes have a reputation for being sensitive to intake leaks, so be sure of this.

2, 3, I dunno.

4, 5 A leaking cam cover can drain down into the well where the spark plugs are, and from there follow passages to the places you describe.

[Nessism]

Bike won't run right without air filter but it will run better than you state. Sounds like time to pull those carbs and rebuild them proper using the carb series on the GSR homepage and those o-rings. While the carbs are off, take off the rubber boots connected to the head, the large o-rings go there. Valve adjustment is in order while the carbs are off as well. Very easy job using Basscliff's tutorial. Only hard part is waiting on the shims to arrive and removing the old valve cover gasket (if it has not been changed before).

Good luck.

[buckeyemike]

thanks guys

so I guess I need to order an air filter and pull carbs off. I am dreading the carbs am afraid that I am going to screw something up if it is jammed/stuck. what is easiest way to remove carbs. start with?? Airbox 1st.

Also is it easier to adjust valves with carbs off? More room. that is definetely intimidating! I need a tappet spacer tool also?

[PaulC]

so I guess I need to order an air filter and pull carbs off. I am dreading the carbs am afraid that I am going to screw something up if it is jammed/stuck. what is easiest way to remove carbs. start with?? Airbox 1st.

Also is it easier to adjust valves with carbs off? More room. that is definetely intimidating! I need a tappet spacer tool also?

Don't need to remove carbs to adjust valves. Just need a feeler gauge that is thin enough - Sears has them. There is a tool that is used to compress the valve spring in order to swap out the valve shims - about $10. But do a search - I think there's a thread on using a plastic straw to adjust the valves that looks simple enough.

Also check the garage section - there is a long fully documented section on tearing down and rebuilding carbs.

Paul