Need Rotor puller part # for 84 1150

[drewandkellie]

Hi
I am trying to order a rotor puller for my 84 1150ES.
My dealer is asking me for the part number(their the best). I have the part number for a 80-82 1100E from my 1100 shop manual but I believe the rotor itself was changed in 83, making me wonder if the rotor puller changed as well.
Anyone know or have an 84 1150 service manual to give me the rotor puller part number.

Thanks
Drew

[haggis905]

Hi
I am trying to order a rotor puller for my 84 1150ES.
My dealer is asking me for the part number(their the best). I have the part number for a 80-82 1100E from my 1100 shop manual but I believe the rotor itself was changed in 83, making me wonder if the rotor puller changed as well.
Anyone know or have an 84 1150 service manual to give me the rotor puller part number.

Thanks
Drew

I have the service manual, but won't be able to get to it until tonight. I will check and let you know...

[Suzuki mad]

Suzuki workshop manual GS(X)1100/GS1150. (99500-39030-01E)

Rotor Remover 09930-34930.

Suzuki mad

[hillhopper]

Homemade rotor puller

My GS with a starter clutch problem is an "85 GS550ES G with a stock TSCC (GSX) mill. Trying to find something in the market has me down with the blues, but the light shone in the form of taking some measurements and doing some homework. The threads on the hub of the flywheel are M30 1.5. The hex bolt for pullers from Motion Pro are M16 1.5. At least for the P516 Part (08-0027). So, with that info and the 17mm headed bolt out using an impact socket and driver, (A handy 12v wheel nut impact wrench with a 1/2" drive) and a 12v auto battery, It took less than 15 minutes to get the center retaining bolt out. Now it's just a matter of getting the clutch ass'y. off the tapered end of the crank. Two hex nuts from a supplier are, an M30 1.5 grade 8 and an M16 1.5 (same grade), a propane torch, brazing rod, flux, then braze the two nuts together with their centers inline. Then thread the large one onto the flywheel, thread the M16 1.5 hex bolt through the smaller one with a shim under it to protect the end of the crank, and (hold your breath and turn with a socket and spanner) until the flywheel assembly separates from the tapered end of the crank. I'm doing this to avoid using heat to expand the hub since the coils magnets are vulnerable to heat. Whaddya think? Old man is nuts? If it fails, I'm not showing my inputs for shame for quite a while.

[Killer2600]

My GS with a starter clutch problem is an "85 GS550ES G with a stock TSCC (GSX) mill. Trying to find something in the market has me down with the blues, but the light shone in the form of taking some measurements and doing some homework. The threads on the hub of the flywheel are M30 1.5. The hex bolt for pullers from Motion Pro are M16 1.5. At least for the P516 Part (08-0027). So, with that info and the 17mm headed bolt out using an impact socket and driver, (A handy 12v wheel nut impact wrench with a 1/2" drive) and a 12v auto battery, It took less than 15 minutes to get the center retaining bolt out. Now it's just a matter of getting the clutch ass'y. off the tapered end of the crank. Two hex nuts from a supplier are, an M30 1.5 grade 8 and an M16 1.5 (same grade), a propane torch, brazing rod, flux, then braze the two nuts together with their centers inline. Then thread the large one onto the flywheel, thread the M16 1.5 hex bolt through the smaller one with a shim under it to protect the end of the crank, and (hold your breath and turn with a socket and spanner) until the flywheel assembly separates from the tapered end of the crank. I'm doing this to avoid using heat to expand the hub since the coils magnets are vulnerable to heat. Whaddya think? Old man is nuts? If it fails, I'm not showing my inputs for shame for quite a while.

Is that even gonna work the one nut on top of the bigger nut. What I'd do is get the 30mm nut thread it on the hub and use a 3-jaw gear puller, if that could work I'd fab up something. I prefer welding over brazing anything that has to endure high forces.

[SqDancerLynn1]

Don't go near the rotor with a 3 jaw puller Unless you want to buy a new rotor.

[posplayr]

#MP14 30mm x 1.5mm RH External

http://pitposse.stores.yahoo.net/pullerchart.html

#MP14 30mm x 1.5mm RH External
Thread Deep Reach GS1100/1150 (81-85)
Note: small diameter rotors on these models

$25.95
This is the same one as my bike.

See related link and post #10 and how I improved the puller

http://www.thegsresources.com/_forum/showthread.php?t=119895

Posplayr

[hillhopper]

The brazing is strong enough so far. I had to use a 30mm x 1.5 for the hub thread, and then a 1" nut for the puller which is a 1" x 4 1/2" bolt. Since the hub center is less than 1", the bolt did not fit in to reach the end of the crank, so digging up an old slide hammer with a cast weight and a 1/2" rod threaded at the end, and looking around the junk box for a nut to weld onto the bolt head, I found a lug nut for a car wheel fit, so I fired up the welder and welded the lug nut onto the head of the puller bolt. Then threaded the two large nut assembly onto the rotor hub, next the 1" bolt into that and the puller into the lugnut on top. Without any heat, I hammered that rotor out for about 40 minutes before giving in and deciding to use the oxy-acetylene on it later before trying the puller again. I have a damaged rotor, locked starter clutch, but a new homemade puller and the hope of heat to finish the job. New parts after that.

[posplayr]

these can be tough

Mapp gas torch and stay away from the magnets on the rotor. You will need leverage , not sure you will ever get it with a slide hammer unless it is red hot .

I would replace at least the starter clutch if you ever get it off.

persistence

Posplayr

The brazing is strong enough so far. I had to use a 30mm x 1.5 for the hub thread, and then a 1" nut for the puller which is a 1" x 4 1/2" bolt. Since the hub center is less than 1", the bolt did not fit in to reach the end of the crank, so digging up an old slide hammer with a cast weight and a 1/2" rod threaded at the end, and looking around the junk box for a nut to weld onto the bolt head, I found a lug nut for a car wheel fit, so I fired up the welder and welded the lug nut onto the head of the puller bolt. Then threaded the two large nut assembly onto the rotor hub, next the 1" bolt into that and the puller into the lugnut on top. Without any heat, I hammered that rotor out for about 40 minutes before giving in and deciding to use the oxy-acetylene on it later before trying the puller again. I have a damaged rotor, locked starter clutch, but a new homemade puller and the hope of heat to finish the job. New parts after that.

[TheCafeKid]

If its like the 82-83 1100G/E rotor, a jawed puller will work fine. Thats what we used when i recently replaced the starter clutch in my 1100G. Patience and a rubber mallet will help (trust me when I say, hit it gently. I actually ruined the rotor i pulled off, but was installing a new one anyway. The magnets will break like eggs) I had the puller tool for the older, smaller bikes, and it quickly was apparent that wasnt going to work. Ive never seen the puller that you would use for these, but the jawed pully/gear puller worked just fine.