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So, um, how do I balance carbs?

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    So, um, how do I balance carbs?

    I'm finally getting to putting the bike back together, it runs yay, but not extremely well. Figured after rebuilding the carbs it would be a good idea to synchronize them, but hey I have no clue how to do that.

    I'd been told that you can do it quick and dirty on a 2-cylinder by pulling the spark plug leads, which is where I started, and what do you know, the bike shut off immediately when I pulled the lead on the right, andd kept right chugging along when I pulled the left side.

    So I know the left is carrying too much of the load so to speak, but where do I go from here? What do I loosen/tighten to balance the two?

    #2
    The only proper way to sync the carbs is with a set of gauges. There are several options. Z1 Enterprises has a set of analog gauges for about $50. They also have a nice set of fluid-filled columns for about $85. Generaly regarded as the best is the Carbtune Pro from Morgan, about $130.

    To adjust the sync, look at the throttle linkage between the carbs. You will see where the cable attaches, I think it's to the right carb, but I am not sure. There will be a tab on the end of the throttle shaft that engages an adjuster mechanism on the rightend of the left carb's throttle shaft. That adjuster mechanism consists of a setscrew and locknut. Loosen the locknut and adjust the setscrew while watching the gauges until the readings for the two cylinders match, then lock the adjuster into place.

    Why, you ask, would you want a 4-cylinder gauge set when you have a 2-cylinder bike? Easy. With a little practice, you will be the envy of all your riding buddies and will be able to do their carbs, too, and possibly recuperate some of your initial outlay in the process.

    .
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      #3
      First you need a beam scale and a small grinder
      I kid
      You can buy the set as directed in the previous post. There is also a link in the tips section for a homebuilt syncronizer.

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        #5
        Originally posted by Clone View Post
        First you need a beam scale and a small grinder
        I kid
        You can buy the set as directed in the previous post. There is also a link in the tips section for a homebuilt syncronizer.
        Beat me to it.
        1983 GS 1100E w/ 1230 kit, .340 lift Web Cams, Ape heavy duty valve springs, 83 1100 head with 1.5mm oversized SS intake valves, 1150 crank, Vance and Hines 1150 SuperHub, Star Racing high volume oil pump gears, 36mm carebs Dynojet stage 3 jet kit, Posplayr's SSPB, Progressive rear shocks and fork springs, Dyna 2000, Dynatek green coils and Vance & Hines 4-1 exhaust.
        1985 GS1150ES stock with 85 Red E bodywork.

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          #6
          I have a morgan Carbtune. It is real nice, even though an ant crawled in there and died once...

          The trick is getting to the screws and lock nut that are there. There is a special tool which I have as well ($5 or so) that is a long flatblade screwdriver that slips in a long tube with the 10mm (i think) socket at the end. That way, you seat your screw driver, loosen the nut, adjust, tighten nut, and move on. What blows is that that tool will not fit in the middle adjuster of some models because of the throttle cable bracket and the backbone of the frame. You kinda just got to get in there and figure it out.

          Best of luck. It is an agrivating process for me, but you do it once right and you don't have to do it again.

          Did I mention sometimes it is a PITA to get the allen screws of the boots in and out?

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