first bike help me get it on the road

[AskInWv]

HE I JUST GOT ONE OF THESE IN REALLY GOOD SHAPE FOR 450.00 THE ONLY PROBLEM MY BUDDY AND I FOUND IS ITS IDLEING LOW... aLSO IF YOU TURN THE HANDLE BARS HARD RIGHT OR HARD LEFT IT REVS BACK TO NORMAL IDLE.. Opps sory bout caps. We think to throttle cable may be stretched does that sound right to you all. also how would you adjust the idle??? thanks this is my first bike so i wanna make sure things are good before we go

[simon kuether]

Welcome aboard old mate.You should be able to turn your bars from lock to lock and not affect anything.If you remove your tank,you can see where your cables(and wiring harness)are routed.When you turn your bars,you'll be able to see where they are pulling tight.Something as simple as going over instead under something may gain you the extra length you need(maybe only a fraction of an inch).Don't forget to check your harness while you're there.You don't need to gain inches because that can lead to the cables kinking.Just little and little.I re-routed my cables and harness maybe 6 times till I found routing that I was happy with.It can be a bit tedious what with connecting and disconnecting but it is well worth the excercise as it will give you better cable life and general reliability.Also ,if you have to disconnect the cables,check to see that they are lubed properly.If you tell us what type of bike it is,there'll be someone on here with the same type and they'll gladly help you with solutions specific to your ride.Cheers,Simon.

[IluvmyGS]

Right underneath the carb, there is a screw at the middle and you can turn it to adjust the idle.

[BassCliff]

Hee Haw Howdy!

Hi Mr. AskInWv,

Yes, it sounds like just a mis-routed cable that's too tight or too loose somewhere along it's path. Don't forget to lube it too. You didn't mention what bike you have. Feel free to stop by my website and see if there is a manual there for you. Here is your mega-welcome!

Dear fellow GS rider,

Let it be known that on this day you are cordially and formally welcomed to the GSR Forum as a Junior Member in good standing with all the rights and privileges thereof. Further let it be known that your good standing can be improved with pictures (not you, your bike)!

Perhaps you've already seen these, but I like to remind all the new members. In addition to the carb rebuild series, I recommend visiting the In The Garage section via the GSR Homepage and check out the Stator Papers. There's also a lot of great information in the Old Q&A section. I have some documentation on my little BikeCliff website to help get you familiar with doing routine maintenance tasks (note that it is 850G-specific but many tasks are common to all GS bikes). Other "user contributed" informational sites include those of Mr. bwringer, Mr. tfb and Mr. robertbarr. And if your bike uses shims for valve adjustments, send an email to Mr. Steve requesting a copy of his Excel spreadsheet that helps you keep track of clearances, shim sizes and other service work.

These are some edited quotes from one of our dear beloved gurus, Mr. bwringer, with ideas on basic needs (depending on initial condition), parts, and accessories.
***********Quoted from Mr. bwringer************
Every GS850 (and most other models) has (or had) a set of well-known issues that MUST be addressed before you have a solid baseline for further troubleshooting. It's a vintage bike, and it's quite common (as in, every single GS850 I have had contact with) that there are multiple problems that have crept up and slowly gotten worse over the years. It's not like a newer vehicle, where there's generally one problem at a time.

These common issues are:

1. Intake O-rings (install NEW OEM or Viton only - common nitrile O-rings will quickly deteriorate from heat)
2. Intake Boots (install NEW -- these cannot be repaired)
3. Valve clearances (more important than most people think)
4. Carb/airbox boots
5. Airbox sealing
6. Air filter sealing
7. Petcock (install a NEW one)
8. On '79 models, install new points or Dyna electronic ignition (or at least verify that the old points are working correctly)
9. On all models, it's fairly common to have problems with the spark plug caps. These are $3 or $4 each, and often worth replacing if you're keeping the stock coils/wires.
10. Stock exhaust with NO leaks or holes -- good seals at the head and at the junctions underneath.
***********************************
Carburetor maintenance:

Replace the intake boot o-rings, and possibly the intake boots. Here's the procedure:

http://bwringer.com/gs/intakeorings.html

Here's an overview of what happens with this particular problem:

http://cycleorings.com/intake.html

You'll also want to examine the boots between the carbs and the airbox. There's a good chance these are OK, but check them over.
And finally, if things still aren't exactly right, you'll want to order a set of o-rings for BS carbs from the GS owner's best friend, Robert Barr:

http://cycleorings.com

Once you receive these rare rings of delight, then you'll want to thoroughly clean and rebuild your carburetors. Here are step-by-step instructions that make this simple:

http://thegsresources.com/gs_carbrebuild.htm

***************************************
OEM Parts/Online Fiches:

I would definitely double and triple the recommendations to use Cycle Recycle II and Z1 Enterprises as much as possible. These guys are priceless resources. Z1 tends to have slightly better prices, CRC2 has a wider range of goodies available. If you're near Indy and can bring in an old part to match, CRC2 has a vast inventory of used parts.
http://denniskirk.com - Put in your bike model and see what they have.
http://oldbikebarn.com - seems to be slowly regaining a decent reputation, but it's still caveat emptor. They don't have anything you can't get elsewhere at a better price anyway.
http://www.babbittsonline.com/ - Decent parts prices. Spendy shipping. Don't give you part numbers at all. Useful cross-reference if you obtain a part number elsewhere. Efficient service.
http://bikebandit.com - Fastest. Middlin' prices. Uses their own parts numbering system to obfuscate price comparisons -- can be very confusing for large orders. Cheapest shipping, so total cost usually isn't too bad.
http://flatoutmotorcycles.com - Slow. Cheapest parts prices, crazy shipping costs. Don't expect progress updates or much communication. Real Suzuki part numbers.
http://alpha-sports.com - Exorbitant parts prices. Different type of fiche interface that's quite useful at times, especially with superceded part numbers. Real parts numbers. Shipping cost and speed unknown due to insane, unholy pricing.

Stainless Bolts, Viton o-rings, metric taps, dies, assorted hard-to-find supplies and materials, etc:

http://mcmaster.com - Fast, cheap shipping, good prices. No order minimum, but many items like bolts come in packs of 25 or 50. Excellent resource.
http://motorcycleseatcovers.com - Great quality, perfect fit (on original seat foam), and available for pretty much every bike ever made. Avoid the textured vinyl -- it's perforated.
http://newenough.com - You DO have riding gear, don't you? Great clearances, always outstanding prices and impeccable service.
***************End Quote**********************
Additional parts/info links:

GSR Forum member Mr. duaneage has great used upgraded Honda regulator/rectifiers for our bikes. Send him a PM.
New electrical parts:
http://stores.ebay.com/RMSTATOR or http://www.rmstator.com/

http://www.ricksmotorsportelectrics.com/index.php

http://www.electrosport.com/

For valve cover and breather cover gaskets, I recommend Real Gaskets (reusable silicon):

http://www.realgaskets.com

Carolina Cycle

http://www.carolinacycle.com

Ron Ayers Motorsports

http://www.ronayers.com

MR Cycles

http://www.mrcycles.com

Moto Grid

http://www.motogrid.com

Salvage/Used

http://www.ricepaddymotorcycles.com

http://www.ozpowersports.com/

If all else fails, try this:

http://www.used-motorcycle-parts.org/

Used bike buying checklists:

http://www.amadirectlink.com/roadride/Riderresc/checklist.asp

http://www.clarity.net/~adam/buying-bike.html

Lots of good info/pictures here:

http://www.suzukicycles.org

http://www.cyclechaos.com/wiki/Motorcycle_Wiki

http://www.bikepics.com
Basic motorcycle maintenance/repair:
http://www.dansmc.com/mc_repaircourse.htm
Online Clymer manuals:
http://search.ebscohost.com/ Click on "Small Engine Repair" then "Motorcycles". User=library, password=library. Note: This link may not work if you are on a school campus.

Thanks for joining us. Keep us informed of your progress. There's lots of good folk with good experience here.

Thank you for your indulgence,

BassCliff
(The unofficial GSR greeter)

[Suzuki mad]

Hi and ........

HE I JUST GOT ONE OF THESE IN REALLY GOOD SHAPE FOR 450.00 THE ONLY PROBLEM MY BUDDY AND I FOUND IS ITS IDLEING LOW... aLSO IF YOU TURN THE HANDLE BARS HARD RIGHT OR HARD LEFT IT REVS BACK TO NORMAL IDLE.. Opps sory bout caps. We think to throttle cable may be stretched does that sound right to you all. also how would you adjust the idle??? thanks this is my first bike so i wanna make sure things are good before we go

Hi, you've been basscliff'd.

Depends on what bike it is. (You carefull ommited it in your original post.)

If the bars have been changed from flat to raised or cruiser style that would also cause the problem. The PO (previous owner) would have stolen the slack cable in the swap hence when the bike turns the cable shortens and the throttle pulls up.

Suzuki mad

[AskInWv]

Sorry guys it is a 1981 suzuki gs650g. I did see somewhere on the bike where it said gs650gt but i dont know. The bike was idling low around 5-700 and if you put it into neutral at a light it would stall. but if you turned handle bars it would idle a good bit higher.. You can see the throttle cable getting tighter as the wheel is turned. i have yet to pull tank im no mechanic but i will try(need to learn). We did how ever adjust the screws on the throttle cable at the bottom. This got the idle to about 1000-1300 rpm with wheel straight. I dont know if we were supposed to or not.

Any suggestios:

Also i saw this response earlier
Right underneath the carb, there is a screw at the middle and you can turn it to adjust the idle.
My question is isnt that the screw to sync the carb??? Dont you have to adjust all four.
My buddy seems to think there is a single screw somewhere that you can adjust?

I ould really like to get this fixed i cant ride till i do i have 3 kis and dont wanna be on a unsafe bike...

Also where can i get Accessories to fix this bike up and make her look pretty..

Thanks all
AskInWV

[IluvmyGS]

The screw underneath the carb is for you to adjust the idle.

[Suzuki mad]

More than a question....

Sorry guys it is a 1981 suzuki gs650g. I did see somewhere on the bike where it said gs650gt but i dont know. i have yet to pull tank im no mechanic but i will try(need to learn).

The 'T' in GT will indicate that it was a 1980 bike. Nothing more. Its only one bolt and disconnect 2 fuel lines and pull to cables to the fuel guage. Not hard.

Any suggestios:

Also i saw this response earlier
Right underneath the carb, there is a screw at the middle and you can turn it to adjust the idle.
My question is isnt that the screw to sync the carb??? Dont you have to adjust all four.
My buddy seems to think there is a single screw somewhere that you can adjust?

Thats screw adjust the tickover not the carb sync which is on top of the carbs and under the tank, so if you haven't had the tank off you have donr nothing wrong. You are correct about carb sync method of doing all 4 but that will come later.

I ould really like to get this fixed i cant ride till i do i have 3 kis and dont wanna be on a unsafe bike...

Also where can i get Accessories to fix this bike up and make her look pretty..

Bike bandit, alpha sports etc. Depends on where you are in the world. Most companies ship world wide now adays. As for making her look pretty thats down to what you want. Customise or go original. I'd suggest you get the 650 running and stopping, then worry about how it looks.

Suzuki mad

[BassCliff]

Hi Mr. AskInWv,

There is a full service manual for the 650G on my website. Download it, read it, study it, know it, love it. I think there is also a link to an online Clymer manual in your mega-welcome. The manual is an invaluable resource. I believe, first you need to understand your bike, then you will know better how to repair and maintain your bike. It takes practice and patience, but the good folk here will help you. Keep us informed.

Thank you for your indulgence,

BassCliff

[simon kuether]

Ask mate,you really need to sort your cables.If you've upped your idle by adjusting your cables,your original problem could be worsened.I'd hate to think of you coming off going around a corner by having your bike take off into oncoming traffic etc.Please go to the trouble.Cheers,Simon.

[AskInWv]

ok i got the cable issue fixed found the idle screw under the carb got her idleing at 1300 sound good. No more reving when bars are turned. Changed the oil and spark plugs. Went on ride put about 50 miles or so on her. had her doing 85-90 for a split second on the interstate before i crapped myself. was supprised how well she did and had alot more. Especally with my size on her 6'3 270.

Now i need to get the seat redone. Replace the horn can barely hear it while sitting on it. And need a New rear tire.

I have the original owners manual as well as a service manual. Was reading on changing the tire doesnt seem that hard.. but im not a mecanic. Anyone done this and have advice??? How much should it run... This bike has the drive shaft not chain..

Thanks guys

[AskInWv]

anyone changed the rear tire?

[simon kuether]

Real glad to hear you sorted your cables.Sounds like you need to find a fellow GS'r in your area to "mentor" you.I'm not taking the **** out of you when I say this.Everyone on here started out like you are.There's two ways to learn about the thrills of motorcycling(or anything else for that matter)and that's to learn from your mistakes(if you don't die in the process) or learn from someone else's mistakes.Put on a drink and a BBQ and you'll get no end of assistance from the good 'ol boys.Cheers,Simon.

[Bill Lloyd]

Idle adjust screw

Damned if I'VE ever been able to find the thing!

-- Bill