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    #31
    TCK-

    Right now everything is assembled. If I have to take it apart again Iwill get some pictures. If it will help I can take some pictures of it as it is now, maybe you can tell if the arm is misplace from that. I did compare the position to the position of an arm on a 650L(my next project) and they appear to be real close or the same. Thanks.

    Andy
    1986 GS1150ES "JUNO QUICK”
    1984 GS1100GK
    1982 GS1100E “RANGER”
    1978 GS750E-"JUNO RIOT" on the road in 2013
    1980 GS550GL complete, original, 4900 miles

    Comment


      #32
      Originally posted by ALB80-850 View Post
      TCK-

      Right now everything is assembled. If I have to take it apart again Iwill get some pictures. If it will help I can take some pictures of it as it is now, maybe you can tell if the arm is misplace from that. I did compare the position to the position of an arm on a 650L(my next project) and they appear to be real close or the same. Thanks.

      Andy
      No no, im sorry, I meant i would like to see a pic of the arm and what not, assembled. Not not assembled... not that i wouldnt want to see that too.. just not is not what im looking for. Not that it matters...LOL

      Yeah a pic of it put together would be great...

      TCK

      Comment


        #33
        Standby............


        I'll try to make it quick.
        1986 GS1150ES "JUNO QUICK”
        1984 GS1100GK
        1982 GS1100E “RANGER”
        1978 GS750E-"JUNO RIOT" on the road in 2013
        1980 GS550GL complete, original, 4900 miles

        Comment


          #34
          I can't get there from here. PM me your email and I'll send the picture that way.

          Andy
          1986 GS1150ES "JUNO QUICK”
          1984 GS1100GK
          1982 GS1100E “RANGER”
          1978 GS750E-"JUNO RIOT" on the road in 2013
          1980 GS550GL complete, original, 4900 miles

          Comment


            #35
            Originally posted by ALB80-850 View Post
            I have read several post that talk about weak clutch springs. Could mine be to strong or over torqued?
            no
            it is the distance (travel) of the clutch lever mechanism that matters when separating the clutch plates
            springs only make the plates' engagement pressure harder or softer
            GS850GT

            Comment


              #36


              Here is my shift arm lever position. Sorry for the delay, photbucket and I do not play well.

              Andy
              1986 GS1150ES "JUNO QUICK”
              1984 GS1100GK
              1982 GS1100E “RANGER”
              1978 GS750E-"JUNO RIOT" on the road in 2013
              1980 GS550GL complete, original, 4900 miles

              Comment


                #37
                That clutch arm is significantly inboard of the one on my 850. I'd loosen the cable all the way and remove the arm, then reinstall the arm as far outboard as possible. Clutch cable should have a small amount of play and that's it.

                Good luck.
                Last edited by Nessism; 08-03-2008, 10:53 AM.
                Ed

                To measure is to know.

                Mikuni O-ring Kits For Sale...https://www.thegsresources.com/_foru...ts#post1703182

                Top Newbie Mistakes thread...http://www.thegsresources.com/_forum...d.php?t=171846

                Carb rebuild tutorial...https://gsarchive.bwringer.com/mtsac...d_Tutorial.pdf

                KZ750E Rebuild Thread...http://www.thegsresources.com/_forum...0-Resurrection

                Comment


                  #38
                  Originally posted by Nessism View Post
                  That clutch arm is significantly inboard of the one on my 850. I'd loosen the cable all the way and remove the arm, then reinstall the arm as far outboard as possible. Clutch cable should have a small amount of play and that's it.

                  Good luck.
                  Yeah I have to agree with Ed here, i think that is your problem. Mine on my 1100G, which might as well be the same motor, sticks WAY out there...give it a shot.

                  Comment


                    #39
                    Will give that a try. Am going to remove the clutch assembly and take pictures of the shifting fork and internals to post and get your opinions. Im thinking the shift fork might still be off by a notch or 2. I think the problem is real close to being solved(at least I hope so).Thanks for all help.

                    Andy
                    1986 GS1150ES "JUNO QUICK”
                    1984 GS1100GK
                    1982 GS1100E “RANGER”
                    1978 GS750E-"JUNO RIOT" on the road in 2013
                    1980 GS550GL complete, original, 4900 miles

                    Comment


                      #40
                      I would love to get this thing down the road today. It would be a real nice b-day present to myself
                      1986 GS1150ES "JUNO QUICK”
                      1984 GS1100GK
                      1982 GS1100E “RANGER”
                      1978 GS750E-"JUNO RIOT" on the road in 2013
                      1980 GS550GL complete, original, 4900 miles

                      Comment


                        #41

                        Here is the linkage with the clutch assembly removed
                        1986 GS1150ES "JUNO QUICK”
                        1984 GS1100GK
                        1982 GS1100E “RANGER”
                        1978 GS750E-"JUNO RIOT" on the road in 2013
                        1980 GS550GL complete, original, 4900 miles

                        Comment


                          #42
                          Your clutch actuator arm needs to be repositioned back, it is in the position now it should be in after pulling in the clutch. Remove the bolt, pull it up and reposition it back a few splines, so it starts in 1 o'clock and finishes in 11 o'clock.

                          Comment


                            #43
                            Make sure the the notch at the back of the clutch hub fits into the oil pump gear.
                            I have to agree. The clutch actuator arm is off.
                            1983 GS 1100E w/ 1230 kit, .340 lift Web Cams, Ape heavy duty valve springs, 83 1100 head with 1.5mm oversized SS intake valves, 1150 crank, Vance and Hines 1150 SuperHub, Star Racing high volume oil pump gears, 36mm carebs Dynojet stage 3 jet kit, Posplayr's SSPB, Progressive rear shocks and fork springs, Dyna 2000, Dynatek green coils and Vance & Hines 4-1 exhaust.
                            1985 GS1150ES stock with 85 Red E bodywork.

                            Comment


                              #44
                              If I understand this right, the arm on the left needs to be higher?Put that gear in the 1 o'clock position and the upper edge will finish it's stroke at the 11 o'clock position. Thanks.

                              Andy

                              P.S. I'm not trying to sound like an idiot, but I don't want to have to take it apart many more times.

                              Thanks for the info.
                              1986 GS1150ES "JUNO QUICK”
                              1984 GS1100GK
                              1982 GS1100E “RANGER”
                              1978 GS750E-"JUNO RIOT" on the road in 2013
                              1980 GS550GL complete, original, 4900 miles

                              Comment


                                #45
                                your shifter looks ok - if that pic is taken in neutral gear - so dont move it

                                what everybody is on about is the actuator arm in your first pic
                                if "12" o clock is when the arm is paralel with the engine (facing straight forward), you want it positioned at 1 oclock so when it is pulled in by the clutch cable it comes to 11 oclock
                                GS850GT

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