Tranny/Shifting problem

[Nessism]

I'm not familar with the 850 release mechanism in the clutch cover but clearly that is where your problem lies. Time to pull the clutch cover back off, but leave the clutch alone. Make sure the pushrod mechanism is in place properly and look at the rack and pinion gears. Maybe they need to be indexed in some different way than current? Not sure but take a close look at how the mechanism works. Something is not put together correctly.

[ALB80-850]

Thank you Mr. Nessism for your suggestions and help. I think that also where the problem lies. If the are a fresh set of eyes in my area that wouldn't mind stopping by and taking a look, I'd be most appriecative. In the mean time I will pull the cover and look over the machanics of the clutch/linkage and see what I can figure out.Wish me luck, if anybody else has any ideas... I'm all ears.


Andy

[psyguy]

the actuator rod can be rotated in any position - and in fact rotates a little as you push the clutch cover on - the rod rotates as it engages with the cluch shaft
the actuator rod lever you therefore put back on last (and adjust its direction/position)
the clutch shaft though has splines on only one side and there is only one way it fits into the mould on the inside of the clutch cover

the actuator rod lever always gives resistance (in any position you put it on the actuator rod) when turned anti-clockwise, so clearly you have a prob there if yours give no resistance

take the clutch shaft out and push it into the clutch cover to see/inspect how well it engages with the actuator rod - maybe the splines are worn out

if thats all good then inspect if the clutc shaft itself engages well with the clutch

[vur]

Are any of the clutch plates distorted? Just a thought no one else has mentioned (that I have seen).

My 84 GS750 has a distortion tolerance of ~0.004" (likely similar for all bikes). Anything greater can lead to clutch drag (loss of plate clearance when clutch disengaged). The worse the plate distortion, the higher the drag.... To check the distortion you need a very flat surface. The plates should sit flat on the surface with no visible light between the plate and surface. If there is any light visible it should be less than 0.004" (thickness of a post-it note...)

[ALB80-850]

I will check the above mentioned items this morning. I have a mechaic friend and our scheduals finally mesh. He's comming over about 9:30 to have a look. I will also check the plates for warpage again. Will post the results a little later. Thanks.

Andy

[Nessism]

From what you have said up to this point, the clutch release mechanism is not pushing on the clutch pack at all - no resistance in the lever. Warped clutch discs are a completely different matter and unrelated. I'd focus my energy on figuring out why the actuator is not engaging and pushing on the clutch. As we said earlier, must have something to do with the mechanism in the clutch cover and the release rod.

Hope you guys figure it out. Give up an update after the mechanic looks at it.

[chef1366]

I keep waiting for a success story! Won't be long now.

[catbed]

Before you do anything else, turn the actuator rod counter-clockwise all the way and put the lever on so it is parallel to the gasket face on the case.

Sorry if you already did this

[ALB80-850]

OK chef, here is your success story! The bike is on the road and running, shifting and doing everything else it should be doing well.

A buddy of mine came over and we tinkered with the clutch shifting linkage and cable, this is where the problem was. After putting it all back together and getting her fired, we ran it up and down my street a few times and some small adjustments, it was spitting and sputtering some. Come to find out we left the choke out about a 1/4". Pushed it in and she ran like a million damn dollars. WOO HOO!!

I'm going to have it inspected in the morning, then hopefully 6-8 weeks of good riding weather. 2 things I know it needs at this time are:1. The tiny spring that fit in the front brake lever(pretty sure I have an extra) and 2. The dash bulb for the fuel gage. All in all, not bad for a $300. bike. I'll post a picture tomorrow.

I put about 25 miles on today. The exhaust is off another bike and I think the valve seals on cylinders 1 & 2 were shot, there was some oil sludge in the pipes, so it smoked like crazy for a while. I expect it to clear up totally in the course of the next 50 miles or so. Plus there was leftover cutting oil on the head from when I had the broken exhaust studs repaired. I much rather would of had it fixed buy June1st as opposed to Sept. 1st, but the bottom line is, it's fixed and I'm riding. Thank you all for your help, suggestion and support. Hope to see you on the road soon.

Andy