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Finding TDC without the indicator? '80 GS550

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    Finding TDC without the indicator? '80 GS550

    Hello All.

    While doing a valve adjustment I messed up the timing. (Took the cam chain tensioner off to replace the gasket and it must have skipped a few teeth.)

    The problem is that the PO replaced the ignition signal sender with a taller unit, so he couldn't put the TDC indicator back on. (He replaced it with a simple washer.)

    Anybody have a sure-fire way to find TDC on an '80 GS550?

    Thanks,

    Rob

    #2
    Pull a spark plug, stick something in there (a metal rod of some sort, but nothing that will marr the piston), rotate until the stick comes out the furthest...

    Comment


      #3
      If the ignition is still using the factory advance mechanism even with an aftermarket igntion system the TDC marks shoul still be in place, you may need to remove the ignition pickup plate to see then though. the timing mark is cast into the upper crank case half and the TDC, and firing marks are on the advance mechanism for both cylinders 1-4 and 2-3.

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        #4
        Originally posted by Skyboy8950 View Post
        Pull a spark plug, stick something in there (a metal rod of some sort, but nothing that will marr the piston), rotate until the stick comes out the furthest...
        This is good advice!
        I was gonna tell him he's screwed.

        Comment


          #5
          I've done it before on cars when I couldn't see the TDC mark. It is simple and gets the job done.

          Comment


            #6
            You can also drill through a plug & insert a soft bolt through it. (I think this is the procedure I've only read about it but I can look it up again or try to if you're interested).

            Put it in & slowly turn the crank till the piston touches, mark the crank, reverse the engine the other way until it touches again & mark the crank again. The exact middle of the marks will be TDC.

            This is meant to be more accurate than the "stick in the hole" trick (unless you use a dial gauge) but I have used the stick in the hole trick with success on car engines.

            Dan
            1980 GS1000G - Sold
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              #7
              If you use the stick method make sure that its on No 1 piston not No2 or your timing will be 180 degree's out.

              Suzuki mad.

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                #8
                Thanks

                That was my next question, which piston? Thanks, it's number one.

                I'll try pulling the ignition plate off first to see if there are any factory marks, if not, it's the stick for me.

                Thanks everybody.

                Rob

                Comment


                  #9
                  They made tools for that use.
                  I still have mine left over from when I had a GT-380.
                  It was a dial indicator that screwed into the spark plug hole.
                  I have not seen any in stores lately though.

                  Comment


                    #10
                    Saltymonk has the right idea.
                    Use a degree wheel. Bolt it on the end of the crank on the ignition side. Make a pointer out of a piece of wire and connect it to a clutch cover bolt. Point it anywhere on the degree wheel.
                    Modify a spark plug by drilling out an old spark plug and inserting a bolt long enough to stop the engine before the travel down.
                    Insert the modified plug into the #1 cylinder. Rotate the engine one way till it stops. Note number on the degree wheel. Go the other direction till it stops. Note this number. Add the two numbers together and divide by two. Take out spark plug stopper and rotate the engine to that number. TDC as close as you'll ever get it.
                    1983 GS 1100E w/ 1230 kit, .340 lift Web Cams, Ape heavy duty valve springs, 83 1100 head with 1.5mm oversized SS intake valves, 1150 crank, Vance and Hines 1150 SuperHub, Star Racing high volume oil pump gears, 36mm carebs Dynojet stage 3 jet kit, Posplayr's SSPB, Progressive rear shocks and fork springs, Dyna 2000, Dynatek green coils and Vance & Hines 4-1 exhaust.
                    1985 GS1150ES stock with 85 Red E bodywork.

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                      #11
                      Just a thought, should it matter if the valve is TDC on the compression stroke? i know on cars it has to be on the compression stroke don't know if it's different for bikes.

                      Comment


                        #12
                        TDC is on the compression stroke at #1.
                        It does matter especially on the installation of the cams.
                        1983 GS 1100E w/ 1230 kit, .340 lift Web Cams, Ape heavy duty valve springs, 83 1100 head with 1.5mm oversized SS intake valves, 1150 crank, Vance and Hines 1150 SuperHub, Star Racing high volume oil pump gears, 36mm carebs Dynojet stage 3 jet kit, Posplayr's SSPB, Progressive rear shocks and fork springs, Dyna 2000, Dynatek green coils and Vance & Hines 4-1 exhaust.
                        1985 GS1150ES stock with 85 Red E bodywork.

                        Comment


                          #13
                          Originally posted by GQROD View Post
                          Just a thought, should it matter if the valve is TDC on the compression stroke? i know on cars it has to be on the compression stroke don't know if it's different for bikes.
                          Since he is resetting the cams, all he has to do is set the crank to the top. Then, when the cam goes in, it will determine whether it's the compression or exhaust stroke.
                          If he is only moving the cam a tooth or two, yes, he will have to pay attention to which stroke it is.
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                            #14
                            Thanks Everybody.

                            I always wanted to play with a dial indicator and Harbour Freight had one for $15, so I went that route.

                            I tried the "stick in the hole" method first and was still two teeth off.

                            I really liked the degree wheel idea. If I hadn't bought the indicator, I would've gone that route. That's a true shade tree mechanic hack, simple yet accurate.

                            Thanks again,

                            Rob

                            Comment


                              #15
                              Curious
                              How are you going to find TDC with a dial indicator?
                              1983 GS 1100E w/ 1230 kit, .340 lift Web Cams, Ape heavy duty valve springs, 83 1100 head with 1.5mm oversized SS intake valves, 1150 crank, Vance and Hines 1150 SuperHub, Star Racing high volume oil pump gears, 36mm carebs Dynojet stage 3 jet kit, Posplayr's SSPB, Progressive rear shocks and fork springs, Dyna 2000, Dynatek green coils and Vance & Hines 4-1 exhaust.
                              1985 GS1150ES stock with 85 Red E bodywork.

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