81 GS850GL won't start

[ircryan]

Yesterday I removed my gas tank to see what the issue with my choke was. The cable was busted. I removed it and then proceeded to connect the gas tank back up. Now I can't get the bike started. It seems like I am not getting any fuel. I disconnected the fuel line from the carbs and can see that gas flows when in prime. When I try to start the bike with fuel line disconnected from carbs gas does not flow. Would this mean my vacuum line is clogged?

I also adjusted my thottle cable where it connects to the carbs before I realized I had this issue. Would that cause the bike to not start?

[chef1366]

Yes the throttle adjustment can affect starting.
Sounds like you need a new petcock. (fuel valve from tank)

[psyguy]

you can temporarily use the "prime" position to start the engine
you do need to use the enrichment circle to start it, so you need a fuctional "choke" cable (or just pull by hand the rod at the carbs that connects all the enrichment plungers)

[ircryan]

So I readjusted my throttle to where it was before I had the problem. I tried starting with pectcock in prime but I am still not having any luck.

Should fuel be flowing when I try to start with fuel line disconnected from carbs? (petcock on)

Any other ideas? Could this be an issue with the ignition coil?

I just don't know what else to do.

[fallous]

fuel doesn't flow when in the ON position without vacuum on the petcock. when it's on PRI, it will flow regardless of vacuum.

[BassCliff]

Hee Haw Howdy!

Hi Mr. ircryan,

There's lots of 850G lovin' at my little BikeCliff website. Read up and get a lot of your questions answered. Here is your mega-welcome!

Let it be known that on this day you are cordially and formally welcomed to the GSR Forum as a Junior Member in good standing with all the rights and privileges thereof. Further let it be known that your good standing can be improved with pictures (not you, your bike)!

Perhaps you've already seen these, but I like to remind all the new members. In addition to the carb rebuild series, I recommend visiting the In The Garage section via the GSR Homepage and check out the Stator Papers. There's also a lot of great information in the Old Q&A section. I have some documentation on my little BikeCliff website to help get you familiar with doing routine maintenance tasks (note that it is 850G-specific but many tasks are common to all GS bikes). Other "user contributed" informational sites include those of Mr. bwringer, Mr. tfb and Mr. robertbarr. And if your bike uses shims for valve adjustments, send an email to Mr. Steve requesting a copy of his Excel spreadsheet that helps you keep track of clearances, shim sizes and other service work.

These are some edited quotes from one of our dear beloved gurus, Mr. bwringer, with ideas on basic needs (depending on initial condition), parts, and accessories.
***********Quoted from Mr. bwringer************
Every GS850 (and most other models) has (or had) a set of well-known issues that MUST be addressed before you have a solid baseline for further troubleshooting. It's a vintage bike, and it's quite common (as in, every single GS850 I have had contact with) that there are multiple problems that have crept up and slowly gotten worse over the years. It's not like a newer vehicle, where there's generally one problem at a time.

These common issues are:

1. Intake O-rings (install NEW OEM or Viton only - common nitrile O-rings will quickly deteriorate from heat)
2. Intake Boots (install NEW -- these cannot be repaired)
3. Valve clearances (more important than most people think)
4. Carb/airbox boots
5. Airbox sealing
6. Air filter sealing
7. Petcock (install a NEW one)
8. On '79 models, install new points or Dyna electronic ignition (or at least verify that the old points are working correctly)
9. On all models, it's fairly common to have problems with the spark plug caps. These are $3 or $4 each, and often worth replacing if you're keeping the stock coils/wires.
10. Stock exhaust with NO leaks or holes -- good seals at the head and at the junctions underneath.
***********************************
Carburetor maintenance:

Replace the intake boot o-rings, and possibly the intake boots. Here's the procedure:

http://bwringer.com/gs/intakeorings.html

Here's an overview of what happens with this particular problem:

http://cycleorings.com/intake.html

You'll also want to examine the boots between the carbs and the airbox. There's a good chance these are OK, but check them over.
And finally, if things still aren't exactly right, you'll want to order a set of o-rings for BS carbs from the GS owner's best friend, Robert Barr:

http://cycleorings.com

Once you receive these rare rings of delight, then you'll want to thoroughly clean and rebuild your carburetors. Here are step-by-step instructions that make this simple:

http://thegsresources.com/gs_carbrebuild.htm

***************************************
OEM Parts/Online Fiches:

I would definitely double and triple the recommendations to use Cycle Recycle II and Z1 Enterprises as much as possible. These guys are priceless resources. Z1 tends to have slightly better prices, CRC2 has a wider range of goodies available. If you're near Indy and can bring in an old part to match, CRC2 has a vast inventory of used parts.
http://denniskirk.com - Put in your bike model and see what they have.
http://oldbikebarn.com - seems to be slowly regaining a decent reputation, but it's still caveat emptor. They don't have anything you can't get elsewhere at a better price anyway.
http://www.babbittsonline.com/ - Decent parts prices. Spendy shipping. Don't give you part numbers at all. Useful cross-reference if you obtain a part number elsewhere. Efficient service.
http://bikebandit.com - Fastest. Middlin' prices. Uses their own parts numbering system to obfuscate price comparisons -- can be very confusing for large orders. Cheapest shipping, so total cost usually isn't too bad.
http://flatoutmotorcycles.com - Slow. Cheapest parts prices, crazy shipping costs. Don't expect progress updates or much communication. Real Suzuki part numbers.
http://alpha-sports.com - Exorbitant parts prices. Different type of fiche interface that's quite useful at times, especially with superceded part numbers. Real parts numbers. Shipping cost and speed unknown due to insane, unholy pricing.

Stainless Bolts, Viton o-rings, metric taps, dies, assorted hard-to-find supplies and materials, etc:

http://mcmaster.com - Fast, cheap shipping, good prices. No order minimum, but many items like bolts come in packs of 25 or 50. Excellent resource.
http://motorcycleseatcovers.com - Great quality, perfect fit (on original seat foam), and available for pretty much every bike ever made. Avoid the textured vinyl -- it's perforated.
http://newenough.com - You DO have riding gear, don't you? Great clearances, always outstanding prices and impeccable service.
***************End Quote**********************
Additional parts/info links:

GSR Forum member Mr. duaneage has great used upgraded Honda regulator/rectifiers for our bikes. Send him a PM.
New electrical parts:
http://stores.ebay.com/RMSTATOR or http://www.rmstator.com/

http://www.ricksmotorsportelectrics.com/index.php

http://www.electrosport.com/

For valve cover and breather cover gaskets, I recommend Real Gaskets (reusable silicon):

http://www.realgaskets.com

Carolina Cycle

http://www.carolinacycle.com

Ron Ayers Motorsports

http://www.ronayers.com

MR Cycles

http://www.mrcycles.com

Moto Grid

http://www.motogrid.com

Salvage/Used

http://www.ricepaddymotorcycles.com

http://www.ozpowersports.com/

If all else fails, try this:

http://www.used-motorcycle-parts.org/

Used bike buying checklists:

http://www.amadirectlink.com/roadride/Riderresc/checklist.asp

http://www.clarity.net/~adam/buying-bike.html

Lots of good info/pictures here:

http://www.suzukicycles.org

http://www.cyclechaos.com/wiki/Motorcycle_Wiki

http://www.bikepics.com
Basic motorcycle maintenance/repair:
http://www.dansmc.com/mc_repaircourse.htm
Online Clymer manuals:
http://search.ebscohost.com/ Click on "Small Engine Repair" then "Motorcycles". User=library, password=library. Note: This link may not work if you are on a school campus.

Thanks for joining us. Keep us informed of your progress. There's lots of good folk with good experience here.

Thank you for your indulgence,

BassCliff
(The unofficial GSR greeter)

[psyguy]

did you try this?

you can temporarily use the "prime" position to start the engine
you do need to use the enrichment circle to start it, so you need a fuctional "choke" cable (or just pull by hand the rod at the carbs that connects all the enrichment plungers)

[ircryan]

I tried starting it in prime with the choke out but what is the enrichment circle?

[Dave8338]

I tried starting it in prime with the choke out but what is the enrichment circle?

Choke cable pulls all four choke plungers out at the same time, via a choke rod attached to the carbs on the engine side of the rack. There are no choke plates in these carbs so by adding choke, what you are doing is adding fuel. Clear as mud?

[flyingace]

It sounds to me like choke still isn't working. Maybe you can clear up some issues that are a little confusing:

1. You were having problems with your choke before you removed the tank. Were you having problems starting the bike then?
2. Can you verify for us that the choke is now pulling the plungers all the way out at full choke.
3. Even if the petcock is broken, the bike should start if there is fuel in the float bowls. Is there fuel in them? In other words, were they filled when you 'primed' the carbs?
4. Are you leaving the throttle closed when you start the bike with the choke on? You should.

[ircryan]

Since I have had the bike (5 months) the choke cable would to nothing when being pulled so I rigged a wedge that I would use to hold the choke open at carb when starting. I finally got around to finding out what the problem was with the choke and found the choke cable was broken so I removed it completely until I can get another cable in. When I hooked the gas tank back up and tried to start that where my issue begins. It will not start in prime position either.

[ircryan]

Bike ran great (with only 11,000miles) before I disconnected the gas tank.

[psyguy]

weird

if you can see the "choke" rod operating correctly (pulling all plungers out)and can see the fuel flowing from the bowls (undo the screws at the bowls botom) when the fuel tap is on prime

i would now turn to confirming that you have a spark
-all plugs out, back into the plug caps, let them rest against the engine, crank
-got spark?

[ircryan]

Thanks for all your help on this so far.

So I have spark. The bike will start if I pour a little gas down the spark plug holes. I am getting gas to the carbs. (gas leaks out when I open the drain plug on carbs) so for some reason I am not getting gas to the engine. What should I try next?

[Steve]

What should I try next?

Clean the carbs.

.