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    Installing a masterlink

    I'm embarrassed; after 2.5 years I would have thought I wouldnt have this kind of problem...

    I can't get the damn masterlink to squeeze together enough in order to get the clip on (I know the direction of the clip and all that, no worries there). I can see the grooves, it's SOO close, but I just can;t get any more leverage on it to squish them closer together.

    It's an RK 530 X ring masterlink. It came lubed from the factory. I'm using a pair of channel locks. Any advice??

    #2
    I usually use the old side plate as a spacer and squeeze the new side plate on with a pair of large channel lock pliers. It's worked every time for me.
    Last edited by Sandy; 07-25-2008, 12:38 AM.
    '84 GS750EF (Oct 2015 BOM) '79 GS1000N (June 2007 BOM) My Flickr site http://www.flickr.com/photos/soates50/
    https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4306/35860327946_08fdd555ac_z.jpg

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      #3
      advice ...

      DO NOT USE THE CLIP.. IT WILL POSSIBLY CAUSE A BAD TIME ..
      i repeat donot use the clip do it properly. goto a store and get them to do it.. if you dont know how to or dont have the tools.



      cause theres nothing like a load of flexible steel comming at you at speed. or somone else

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        #4
        appreciate the advice, but in this thread I'm more interested in getting it to work. I wont be going to any shops or otherwise on a bike without a chain

        Comment


          #5
          Thanks Sandy... using the channel locks now.... just not sure how the spacer would work?

          Comment


            #6
            the easy way

            is to clamp them up with slip jaw pliers ( is that what you call channel locks) as tight as you can by hand, then give the jaw of the pliers a sharp smack with a hammer, side plate normally goes on then.

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              #7
              I have used a couple of nuts the correct size backed by a short strip of steel to even out the force from the pliers.
              NO PIC THANKS TO FOTO BUCKET FOR BEING RIDICULOUS

              Current Rides: 1980 Suzuki GS1000ET, 2009 Yamaha FZ1, 1983 Honda CB1100F, 2006 H-D Fatboy
              Previous Rides: 1972 Yamaha DS7, 1977 Yamaha RD400D, '79 RD400F Daytona Special, '82 RD350LC, 1980 Suzuki GS1000E (sold that one), 1982 Honda CB900F, 1984 Kawasaki GPZ900R

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                #8
                Get a bigger hammer!

                Comment


                  #9
                  Channel locks or a C-clamp work pretty well. Key thing is to use something (like 1000E mentioned) to give you something to press on. A couple of small nuts over the master link pins works or use a screwdriver blade in between the pins and press on that.

                  Good luck.
                  Ed

                  To measure is to know.

                  Mikuni O-ring Kits For Sale...https://www.thegsresources.com/_foru...ts#post1703182

                  Top Newbie Mistakes thread...http://www.thegsresources.com/_forum...d.php?t=171846

                  Carb rebuild tutorial...https://gsarchive.bwringer.com/mtsac...d_Tutorial.pdf

                  KZ750E Rebuild Thread...http://www.thegsresources.com/_forum...0-Resurrection

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                    #10
                    when the side plate goes up on the pins, it should stick there & the clip will slide on easily. BE SURE after the clip is installed, to pry the sideplate back out, tight against the clip. this pressure is what holds the clip in place.
                    1983 GS1100E, 1983 CB1100F, 1991 GSX1100G, 1996 Kaw. ZL600 Eliminator, 1999 Bandit 1200S, 2005 Bandit 1200S, 2000 Kaw. ZRX 1100

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                      #11
                      Squeeze the new side plate on until it's flush with pins then put the old side plate over the new one and squeeze until it's flush with pins. The old side should then come off easily and the then you should have enough room for the clip. Test fit the old plate and if the old plate might be to tight just file the hole a bit. It gives you the ability to press on the new plate in one shot without it cocking sideways as when you press the new plate over each pin separately. If the channel locks don't give enough leverage then use a c-clamp.
                      '84 GS750EF (Oct 2015 BOM) '79 GS1000N (June 2007 BOM) My Flickr site http://www.flickr.com/photos/soates50/
                      https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4306/35860327946_08fdd555ac_z.jpg

                      Comment


                        #12
                        Originally posted by marz View Post
                        advice ...

                        DO NOT USE THE CLIP.. IT WILL POSSIBLY CAUSE A BAD TIME ..
                        i repeat donot use the clip do it properly. goto a store and get them to do it.. if you dont know how to or dont have the tools.

                        cause theres nothing like a load of flexible steel comming at you at speed. or somone else
                        cause theres nothing like a load of flexible steel comming at you at speed. or somone else[/QUOTE]

                        I somewhat agree with Marz as I had my 630 chain come off at 100 mph with my wife on the back passing a line of 5 cars. Luckily the chain didn't hang up on anything to cause the rear wheel to lock up or break the cases. On another occasion I got lucky and spotted the missing clip and falling out master link during pre-flight. Needless to say I will only use the rivets now.

                        My suggestion if your going to use a removeable clip is make sure the U in the clip is up front (facing forward) in the normal direction of chain travel. Then use safety wire to hold the link on. Safety wire is just stainless piano wire. You cut a short piece (5") wrap it behind the link plate and the over the clip and then grab the two loose ends and spin with pliers till its tight. Snip off the loose ends then fold whats left into the recess at the center of the clip. Gives some additional holding power.

                        Racers use to have to do this in the old days to get on the track so there may be a better description on the net with pictures if you search. If you clean your chain with a rag and WD 40 sometimes rubbing the rag on the chain can inadvertently loosen or remove the clip.

                        Your results may differ. My lawyer suggest I say that when i give advice.

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                          #13
                          I install the link with the chain ends meeting on the rear sprocket at the 1:00 position. Channel locks or vise grips will usually draw the plates together, but if not then I use nuts over the pins and a c-clamp. I use the channel locks to pull the link onto the pins rather than tapping it on (less chance of it flying off, never to be found). Finally, tap the pins with a small hammer to loosen up the plates and tighten up the link (the sprocket takes the force, not the links).

                          Comment


                            #14
                            I've always cleaned the U-clip, and the outside surface of the link-plate real well w/acetone or the like, and then after installing the clip, I put a good dab of silicone RTV right in the middle of the clip/side-plate. Never lost a clip, much less had a chain come apart.

                            Comment


                              #15
                              Thank you all for the help.... how does this look? Please view closely, not sure if the right side (open end) should be closer together or not....

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