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Won't idle for $%#^

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    Won't idle for $%#^

    The situation:
    1985 GS 550 L
    Dual Carb Setup
    Recently Soaked and Thoroughly Cleaned
    Floats NOT adjusted at the time!

    Started the bike and it ran way too rich, and gas started coming out of the bottom of the bike so I assumed it was the floats since I didn't adjust them the first time and I preceeded to fix that problem.

    I just pulled the carbs tonight and fixed the float problem. I adjusted them using the measurements from the Haynes manual (20.5mm). Put carbs back onto bike, start up and it runs good until it got warm. Its' still leaking fuel out the bottom of the bike somewhere (im assuming there's an overflow from the carbs) and it won't idle very well at all...WTF!!!! :x
    For what its worth, I adjusted the air screws out to 1-5/8 turns like the haynes manual suggested. I know the carbs aren't synced so could this have something to do with the no idle? The bike still runs rich and I can't figure out why!

    Please Help!!
    Any Suggestions, Help, Comments - greatly appreciated!
    I am so confused and just want to dump the bike off a cliff im so frustrated!!!

    Thanks So Much! You Ladies and Gent's are the greatest
    -Al Conforti

    #2
    Yes, there is an overflow from the carbs, but that does not mean you will not get extra fuel sucked into the engine while running. if an excessive amount is there.

    Since the leak did not stop, it appears adjusting the floats may not be all that you need to do. If the needles do not seat properly, they do not seal, and that means the gas will continue to flow.

    Replacing the O-rings is a first step, and a vital one. Although they are often sold with the seats, needles usually do not require replacement. A good cleaning and very careful rub with a piece of 500 paper, very wet, will likely make them good as new.

    There is little point in adjusting the carbs as the continuing gas flow is a major contributor to the problem.
    Bertrand Russell: 'Men are born ignorant, not stupid. They are made stupid by education.'

    Comment


      #3
      Al,

      I agree with Ron, that's most likely where the leak is coming from. I did want to ask one further question though.

      When you had the carbs off of the bike in order to adjust the float height, did you also have them seperated from each other?

      The only reason I ask is that when I take my carbs off and apart for a "full cleaning", they always leak after re-assembly. The leak occurs at the fuel connection tubes between the #1 to #2 carb bodies and the #3 to #4 bodies. It seems the o-rings on the aluminum tubes dry out very quickly and shrink. After assembly, and after putting fuel back through the bodies, it usually takes my bike 1 to 1-1/2 days before they seal again and the leaks stop. This may or may not be the case with your bike, you didn't say if you had the bodies seperated. If they are leaking from those tube connections, then wait and see if it hasn't stopped by tomorrow evening. Even if that is the case though, it still won't solve your running/idling problem.
      Frosty (falsely accused of "Thread-Hijacking"!)
      "Make it idiot proof and someone will make a better idiot."

      Owner of:
      1982 GS1100E
      1995 Triumph Daytona 1200

      Comment


        #4
        I did have the carbs semi-apart, BUT I don't see the fuel leaking from there. With a more thorough look, the fuel is leaking from breather tube that looks like it comes from the air box. It would make sense that the fuel is overflowing and spilling out there....


        Any Other Ideas Much Appreciated!!!!
        Thanks Again,
        -Al Conforti

        Comment

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