What is my next logical step in trying to get it to fire up?
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RocketReady
Trying to make it run
OK, yes I am a novice at this. A friend gave me a 1979 GS750. It does turn over if I cross the starting solenoid. With the key "on" I still get no spark when checking a plug.
What is my next logical step in trying to get it to fire up?Tags: None
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seuadr
check your fuses first and formost, then check and make sure that your coils are getting juice. also want to check your ignitor unit. that is outlined in your manual, which you should pick up and/or check here for http://members.dslextreme.com/users/bikecliff/
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First thing I would do is get a manual.
Troubleshoot the ignition. You have points, condensors and coils.1983 GS 1100E w/ 1230 kit, .340 lift Web Cams, Ape heavy duty valve springs, 83 1100 head with 1.5mm oversized SS intake valves, 1150 crank, Vance and Hines 1150 SuperHub, Star Racing high volume oil pump gears, 36mm carebs Dynojet stage 3 jet kit, Posplayr's SSPB, Progressive rear shocks and fork springs, Dyna 2000, Dynatek green coils and Vance & Hines 4-1 exhaust.
1985 GS1150ES stock with 85 Red E bodywork.
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BassCliff
Hee Haw Howdy!
Hi Mr. RocketReady,
Let it be known that on this day you are cordially and formally welcomed to the GSR Forum as a Junior Member in good standing with all the rights and privileges thereof. Further let it be known that your good standing can be improved with pictures (not you, your bike)!
Perhaps you've already seen these, but I like to remind all the new members. In addition to the carb rebuild series, I recommend visiting the In The Garage section via the GSR Homepage and check out the Stator Papers. There's also a lot of great information in the Old Q&A section. I have some documentation on my little BikeCliff website to help get you familiar with doing routine maintenance tasks (note that it is 850G-specific but many tasks are common to all GS bikes). Other "user contributed" informational sites include those of Mr. bwringer, Mr. tfb and Mr. robertbarr. And if your bike uses shims for valve adjustments, send an email to Mr. Steve requesting a copy of his Excel spreadsheet that helps you keep track of clearances, shim sizes and other service work.
These are some edited quotes from one of our dear beloved gurus, Mr. bwringer, with ideas on basic needs (depending on initial condition), parts, and accessories.
***********Quoted from Mr. bwringer************
Every GS850 (and most other models) has (or had) a set of well-known issues that MUST be addressed before you have a solid baseline for further troubleshooting. It's a vintage bike, and it's quite common (as in, every single GS850 I have had contact with) that there are multiple problems that have crept up and slowly gotten worse over the years. It's not like a newer vehicle, where there's generally one problem at a time.
These common issues are:
1. Intake O-rings (install NEW OEM or Viton only - common nitrile O-rings will quickly deteriorate from heat)
2. Intake Boots (install NEW -- these cannot be repaired)
3. Valve clearances (more important than most people think)
4. Carb/airbox boots
5. Airbox sealing
6. Air filter sealing
7. Petcock (install a NEW one)
8. On '79 models, install new points or Dyna electronic ignition (or at least verify that the old points are working correctly)
9. On all models, it's fairly common to have problems with the spark plug caps. These are $3 or $4 each, and often worth replacing if you're keeping the stock coils/wires.
10. Stock exhaust with NO leaks or holes -- good seals at the head and at the junctions underneath.
***********************************
Carburetor maintenance:
Replace the intake boot o-rings, and possibly the intake boots. Here's the procedure:
Here's an overview of what happens with this particular problem:
You'll also want to examine the boots between the carbs and the airbox. There's a good chance these are OK, but check them over.
And finally, if things still aren't exactly right, you'll want to order a set of o-rings for BS carbs from the GS owner's best friend, Robert Barr:
Once you receive these rare rings of delight, then you'll want to thoroughly clean and rebuild your carburetors. Here are step-by-step instructions that make this simple:
***************************************
OEM Parts/Online Fiches:
I would definitely double and triple the recommendations to use Cycle Recycle II and Z1 Enterprises as much as possible. These guys are priceless resources. Z1 tends to have slightly better prices, CRC2 has a wider range of goodies available. If you're near Indy and can bring in an old part to match, CRC2 has a vast inventory of used parts.
http://denniskirk.com - Put in your bike model and see what they have.
http://oldbikebarn.com - seems to be slowly regaining a decent reputation, but it's still caveat emptor. They don't have anything you can't get elsewhere at a better price anyway.
http://www.babbittsonline.com/ - Decent parts prices. Spendy shipping. Don't give you part numbers at all. Useful cross-reference if you obtain a part number elsewhere. Efficient service.
http://bikebandit.com - Fastest. Middlin' prices. Uses their own parts numbering system to obfuscate price comparisons -- can be very confusing for large orders. Cheapest shipping, so total cost usually isn't too bad.
http://flatoutmotorcycles.com - Slow. Cheapest parts prices, crazy shipping costs. Don't expect progress updates or much communication. Real Suzuki part numbers.
http://alpha-sports.com - Exorbitant parts prices. Different type of fiche interface that's quite useful at times, especially with superceded part numbers. Real parts numbers. Shipping cost and speed unknown due to insane, unholy pricing.
Stainless Bolts, Viton o-rings, metric taps, dies, assorted hard-to-find supplies and materials, etc:
http://mcmaster.com - Fast, cheap shipping, good prices. No order minimum, but many items like bolts come in packs of 25 or 50. Excellent resource.
http://motorcycleseatcovers.com - Great quality, perfect fit (on original seat foam), and available for pretty much every bike ever made. Avoid the textured vinyl -- it's perforated.
http://newenough.com - You DO have riding gear, don't you? Great clearances, always outstanding prices and impeccable service.
***************End Quote**********************
Additional parts/info links:
GSR Forum member Mr. duaneage has great used upgraded Honda regulator/rectifiers for our bikes. Send him a PM.
New electrical parts:
http://stores.ebay.com/RMSTATOR or http://www.rmstator.com/
Aftermarket Motorsport Electrics parts for motorcycles, dirtbikes, atvs, motosport vehicles manufactured and distributed by Rick's Motorsport Electrics
For valve cover and breather cover gaskets, I recommend Real Gaskets (reusable silicon):
Carolina Cycle
Ron Ayers Motorsports
Honda Suzuki Kawasaki Yamaha OEM motorcycle atv and side by side parts with a full line of aftermarket accessories.
MR Cycles
Moto Grid
Salvage/Used
Located in Ottawa, Kansas, Oz Powersports has the products for you. Stop by today. Oz Powersports, Ottawa, KS, Motorcycle Salvage, Salvage Parts, Accessories, ATV, Jetski, Motorcycle, Parts, Tank Sports, Redcat Motors, Salvage, GOPRO cameras, GARMIN GPS systems
If all else fails, try this:
Discover the world of motorcycle restoration and repair at Used Motorcycle Parts Org. Our blog provides invaluable insights into finding and utilizing used motorcycle parts, DIY repair guides, and tips for restoring vintage bikes. Whether you're a seasoned mechanic or a hobbyist, we're your trusted resource for all things related to motorcycle parts and maintenance.
Used bike buying checklists:
Lots of good info/pictures here:
Probably the largest Suzuki motorcycle fan site in the world. Online since 2001. Thousands of pages with technical information, pictures, magazine adverts and brochure scans of most Suzuki motorbikes ever sold in different parts of the world. Thousands of bike pictures and stories posted by the readers. ALL Suzuki motorcycle models around the world have their place here!
http://www.bikepics.com
Basic motorcycle maintenance/repair:
http://www.dansmc.com/mc_repaircourse.htm
Online Clymer manuals:
http://search.ebscohost.com/ Click on "Small Engine Repair" then "Motorcycles". User=library, password=library. Note: This link may not work if you are on a school campus.
Thanks for joining us. Keep us informed of your progress. There's lots of good folk with good experience here.
Thank you for your indulgence,
BassCliff
(The unofficial GSR greeter)
Click here to return to BikeCliff's website.
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RocketReady
Progress Made.
OK, let me say I appreciate the input. I have made substantial progress.
Bike now turns over in the normal mannor. I have spark via new plugs. Can get individual cylinders to fire by putting a bit of gas directly into them. I don't think I am getting any gas from the carbs. Plugs do not seem wet when checking after trying to start motor. I removed the bowl drain screws, drained all the gas, (they seemed full). I have fresh gas in the fuel system. I have an inline filter that I am going to remove and replace with straight gas line, (suspect clog?). Am I on the right track? I am not going to suspect points until I know I am getting gas to the plugs. Any input welcome, please.
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SqDancerLynn1
Make sure the air box is all there & installed. Full choke & NO throdle
when starting cold. Is the battery new ? Weak battery can cause all kinds of problems. Try jump starting with car, with motor off
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Suzuki mad
Originally posted by RocketReady View PostOK, let me say I appreciate the input. I have made substantial progress.
Bike now turns over in the normal mannor. I have spark via new plugs. Can get individual cylinders to fire by putting a bit of gas directly into them. I don't think I am getting any gas from the carbs. Plugs do not seem wet when checking after trying to start motor. I removed the bowl drain screws, drained all the gas, (they seemed full). I have fresh gas in the fuel system. I have an inline filter that I am going to remove and replace with straight gas line, (suspect clog?). Am I on the right track? I am not going to suspect points until I know I am getting gas to the plugs. Any input welcome, please.
Follow the carb strip info (or link) that was on basscliffs welcome blurb. You'll be fine and the bike will run.
Suzuki mad
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Agreed
1. You are not getting gas to cylinders
2. The bike will try to start when you add fuel to cylinders
You need to go back to the main page and scroll down to the carb clean up series. Your bike has the 26mm VM carbs.
Order some new O rings from cycleorings.com. Get the set for the carbs and the ones that go between the head and the carb boot. Then get some carb dip and follow the instructions on how to clean the crap out of your carbs.1978 GS 1000 (since new)
1979 GS 1000 (The Fridge, superbike replica project)
1978 GS 1000 (parts)
1981 GS 850 (anyone want a project?)
1981 GPZ 550 (backroad screamer)
1970 450 Mk IIID (THUMP!)
2007 DRz 400S
1999 ATK 490ES
1994 DR 350SES
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rusty boltz
you could shoot a little ether down the intake if it starts and runs then, guess what..... carb rebuild time!! Seriously do it anyway its well worth it and probably needs it. Robert Barr's Oring (cycleorings.com) kit is top notch and you can tell it was put together by someone who cares about what they are selling you and I for one appreciate that. Who knows you might pull those carbs apart and find little things like broken pilot screws, which the VM carbs seem so infamous for (lotsa fun!!). Gotta make sure the carbs are in check and they are super simple to rebuild especially with the support of this forum. I recieved many tips and links to get my bike on the road again and have been enjoying wind in my face for 300 miles now (not bad for just getting it on the road 2 weeks ago and only riding weekends).
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