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    #16
    Originally posted by gbw View Post

    126v

    I'm going to assume you meant 12.6 because if you are getting line voltage out of this baby we just solved the energy crisis.

    I'm sending you a tested Honda RR that I just modified and ran on my bike. If this does not solve the problem then it is something other than the RR. I don't have spade terminals handy (you mentioned they were added to the RR wires for your bike) but I will include extra bullets for you to use on your stator wires.

    Let's see how this works out
    1981 GS650G , all the bike you need
    1980 GS1000G Power corrupts, and absolute power corrupts absolutely

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      #17
      Originally posted by duaneage View Post
      I'm going to assume you meant 12.6 because if you are getting line voltage out of this baby we just solved the energy crisis.
      Well then we just solved the energy crisis because I got one hundred and twenty six (126) volts. My original r/r had similar output when not connected to anything. Is this cause for concern?

      Originally posted by duaneage View Post
      I'm sending you a tested Honda RR that I just modified and ran on my bike.
      Thank you so much. You are really bending over backwards to help a brother out. I do not think it is the r/r but at least after this we will know for sure.

      Comment


        #18
        Originally posted by gbw View Post
        Well then we just solved the energy crisis because I got one hundred and twenty six (126) volts. My original r/r had similar output when not connected to anything. Is this cause for concern?
        REALLY???!!!

        If your original RR had the same thing there is no way the Honda would have introduced this remarkable phenomenon. I sent the RR this morning. call me when you get it. we are going to get to the bottom of this. Meantime, can you take pictures of the wires going into and out of the RR so I can see what is what? I don't have nor know anyone who has a bike just like yours so I'd love to see some pictures.

        Don't even think about touching that red wire when it is running, that would be very bad.

        One more stupid test
        Using the meter, set the resistance to very low ohms and measure between the green ground tab bolt head and the negative terminal of the battery. Should be less than .25 ohms
        1981 GS650G , all the bike you need
        1980 GS1000G Power corrupts, and absolute power corrupts absolutely

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          #19
          Originally posted by BassCliff View Post
          And I'll make an appointment with the optometrist.
          Here is Cliff's new picture:

          .
          sigpic
          mine: 2000 Honda GoldWing GL1500SE and 1980 GS850G'K' "Junior"
          hers: 1982 GS850GL - "Angel" and 1969 Suzuki T250 Scrambler
          #1 son: 1986 Yamaha Venture Royale 1300 and 1982 GS650GL "Rat Bagger"
          #2 son: 1980 GS1000G
          Family Portrait
          Siblings and Spouses
          Mom's first ride
          Want a copy of my valve adjust spreadsheet for your 2-valve per cylinder engine? Send me an e-mail request (not a PM)
          (Click on my username in the upper-left corner for e-mail info.)

          Comment


            #20
            Originally posted by duaneage View Post
            REALLY???
            I am not surprised. According to the schematic, the r/r is basically three full-wave rectifiers, each with an 80V AC input.

            That means that each output would be 80V*0.6366 = 60V DC.

            The three are added together...60x3=180V.

            Obviously some loss in the system and the fact that the three AC signals are out of phase might explain why I'm only getting 126V.

            However, I thought the regulator was supposed to regulate the voltage...or does it regulate the current? It has been a long time since I studied circuits.


            Originally posted by duaneage View Post
            Using the meter, set the resistance to very low ohms and measure between the green ground tab bolt head and the negative terminal of the battery. Should be less than .25 ohms
            The lowest resistance setting on my meter is 200 ohms. With that setting I show 0.3 ohms. My meter does not show the hundredths place at that setting. But looks like I'm right in the ballpark.

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              #21
              We measured the forward bias resistance of at least one diode when we talked on the phone and it was around 500 ohms. Each diode measures out at around 500-540 ohms each.

              Replace with the RR I sent today and we test again. If it still does it look for a stator wire touching another wire in a harness somewhere.

              The RR I sent you today developed 14.4 @3000RPM last night, my wife verified it by coming downstairs to ask me how much longer I intended to race motorcycle engines at 11:30 PM and she thinks it works plenty good enough too.
              1981 GS650G , all the bike you need
              1980 GS1000G Power corrupts, and absolute power corrupts absolutely

              Comment


                #22
                Quick Update

                Originally posted by duaneage View Post
                The RR I sent you today developed 14.4 @3000RPM last night, my wife verified it by coming downstairs to ask me how much longer I intended to race motorcycle engines at 11:30 PM and she thinks it works plenty good enough too.
                I measured 14.6V @ 5k rpm. This was on the r/r output while the red wires were still connected. However, I only measure 13v across the battery at the same time. Shouldn't these be the same? If so I must have missed a dirty connector or something.

                I get about the same measurements on both the r/r units you sent. Clearly this is not an r/r issue.

                Anyway, I REALLY appreciate you ruling out anything by sending me the second r/r. You have been very helpful and clearly your reputation for providing a bullet proof r/r at a reasonable price and bending over backward to help a brother out is intact.

                So, I still have really weak spark. I guess the next step is replacing the Martek ignition with stock and see if that helps. I think I've replaced everything else!

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