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83GS550E Bigger Pilot Jets to cure no idle ?

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    #31
    Thanks Melodic the jets from the carbs really helped!! yes definetly have a box fan on high while the bike is running.

    I took it out for high speed runs at 3000 rpm average to see if the battery would charge but it did not seem to make a difference and it took three hours to re-charge after only a 20min run so checking the charging system is next. I was just surprised that it died at stops because it was running so good.

    I'm thinking the battery is not charging and this may be why it's dying, anyone have any thoughts on this?
    Last edited by Guest; 08-16-2008, 01:09 PM.

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      #32
      Update on charging system.

      I tested the new battery with a multi meter.

      1-At idle showed 13.5 volts.

      2-At 3000 rpm after 5 min warm up showed 10.5 volts

      3- Did not show increase in voltage at 3000 rpm, lights did not get brighter.

      4-I will start checking the R/R then the stator next and see if this cures the condition of engine dying at stops.

      5-Bike runs great otherwise and is consistent in starting and idle...finally !

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        #33
        75VAC at 5000 RPM is the no load spec on the Alternator.

        13.5 -15.5 VDC should be the output at 5000 RPM.

        Not sure what the output curve would be but the bike is running off battery at lower RPM. WIth a low battery you can see where it the charger starts taking over at about 3000 RPM.

        You did doenaload the manual, YES?

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          #34
          I have a manual yes i just wanted to post what i had so far. I will be testing the rest of the charging system to see where i am at and see what is suspect. Thanks for the specs and your advice i will keep you posted.

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            #35
            Originally posted by Calvin Blackmore View Post
            75VAC at 5000 RPM is the no load spec on the Alternator.

            13.5 -15.5 VDC should be the output at 5000 RPM.

            Not sure what the output curve would be but the bike is running off battery at lower RPM. WIth a low battery you can see where it the charger starts taking over at about 3000 RPM.

            You did doenaload the manual, YES?

            er um see by checking to look at the old headlight putput I mean

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              #36
              Originally posted by GQROD View Post
              I tested the new battery with a multi meter.

              1-At idle showed 13.5 volts.

              2-At 3000 rpm after 5 min warm up showed 10.5 volts

              3- Did not show increase in voltage at 3000 rpm, lights did not get brighter.

              4-I will start checking the R/R then the stator next and see if this cures the condition of engine dying at stops.

              5-Bike runs great otherwise and is consistent in starting and idle...finally !
              Wow. So that voltage is dropping as you increase the RPM from idle? Well, I guess that pretty much shows a problem with the charging system. Sounds like you've got a bonfide electrical issue to go with you fuel delivery/carb issue (which sounds pretty well resolved). Boy, you definitely got hold of a GS in need of your assistance, didn't ya? Well, at least once you're done, you'll know that bike better than the guys that built it. Look at it as "bonding time" for you and your bike.

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                #37
                Originally posted by Calvin Blackmore View Post
                er um see by checking to look at the old headlight putput I mean
                You mean the thing a muh bob next to the wactha muh call it? yes i noticed it had an inverse fractional electron dispersal which showed as an anomoly during my initial scan-lol

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                  #38
                  Originally posted by MelodicMetalGod View Post
                  Wow. So that voltage is dropping as you increase the RPM from idle? Well, I guess that pretty much shows a problem with the charging system. Sounds like you've got a bonfide electrical issue to go with you fuel delivery/carb issue (which sounds pretty well resolved). Boy, you definitely got hold of a GS in need of your assistance, didn't ya? Well, at least once you're done, you'll know that bike better than the guys that built it. Look at it as "bonding time" for you and your bike.
                  Thanks yes i have gotten to know this bike quite well, the PO may have meant well when he thought dropping the bike over and over again would fix the issues but it didn't and cried out for me to buy it and save it. I could have gotten a bike in better shape perhaps for less money but it would not have taught me anything.

                  1-I figure with another 2 volts dropping from resistance in the harness it may only have 9 volts at the coils so i will check everything but electrical problems are far easier to figure out than carb ones that's for sure!

                  2-Well i'm off, gotta get my multimeter, 6-pack of beer and a ball peen hammer before the tropical storm/hurricane hits! I'l keep you posted ! and thanks for the kind words and support this site is great i could not have gotten this far without all your help !!
                  Last edited by Guest; 08-18-2008, 05:46 PM.

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                    #39
                    I'd check your valve clearances as well. Adjusting my valves did a world of good for my idle and cold running issues.

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                      #40
                      Originally posted by Roger P. View Post
                      I'd check your valve clearances as well. Adjusting my valves did a world of good for my idle and cold running issues.
                      You are right that is the first thing i did and glad i did it first i would have hated to to go back into the valve train in bewtween carb removal and tuning. I adjusted them to .13mm the highest allowed and the vibration is gone that i originally felt when i first go tthe bike.

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                        #41
                        Update on charging system.

                        So far since i last posted i have been riding the bike on short trips around the neighborhood and the jetting is perfect and consistently idles well and does not die at stop signs anymore that is until the battery starts to drop too much voltage.......

                        Well it looks like my stator is fried.

                        I heard that Ricks stators are the most reliable, any thoughts on this? i searched past threads and Ricks seems to be the most recomended.

                        Thought i would update this thread since one issue can affect so many others.

                        Since the engine was dying after a short time i finally resolved the carb issues and tested the stator and there is no current from any of the three yellow wires.

                        Let me know what you think on which stator is best. and thanks.
                        Last edited by Guest; 09-07-2008, 12:32 AM.

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                          #42
                          Glad to hear that the carb issue is finally punched out. Congrats!

                          I've been lucky with my electrical thus far, so I don't have any experience on the stator front, but I will be watching to see what folks recommend.

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                            #43
                            Originally posted by MelodicMetalGod View Post
                            Glad to hear that the carb issue is finally punched out. Congrats!

                            I've been lucky with my electrical thus far, so I don't have any experience on the stator front, but I will be watching to see what folks recommend.
                            Thanks, i ordered the electrosport stator and a r/r from duanege. I'm doing the coil relay mod and adding a 6 circuit auxillary fuse box so i can add some lights and clean up the harness a bit.

                            It should start and run better once done, i'll try to post some pics finally.

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                              #44
                              Thought i'd update this thread,

                              Carbs still very reliable since complete, starts right away idles great.

                              I did the coil relay mod and the bike runs much stronger and pulls stronger through the gears. Didn't notice a big difference in better starting though.

                              Winding it out is DEFINETLY much easier now. I used cheap relays ($2.99 from pep boys ) mounted under the right rear panel on the frame to rubber isolated metal brakets ( home depot $1.59 each, 1 inch size ), and utilized 10 guage wire for 87 and 30 of the relays. Over kill maybe but worth it!

                              I'll post pics of the wiring once i have the new stator in.

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                                #45
                                Update

                                Wanted to update this thread for those following it.

                                I replaced the rotor WOW WHAT A COLLOSSAL PITA!!!!!!

                                The PO had put thread locker on the tapered shaft. Big No No!

                                Even with the factory tool i had to get a 25 pound weight lifting weight and finally got the rotor off! the factory one is 2 pounds.

                                The new one is in as is the electrosport stator and a honda r/r.

                                I installed a digital voltmeter and it works great, i did however install the black sense wire directly to the battery to avoid over charging and it does not go higher than 14.5 volts.

                                After taking it out for a spin to make sure things were working guess what?..............

                                You guessed it ANOTHER PROBLEM not with the charging system which thanks to everone's help (especailly those from another thread helping with the puller choice) .

                                But now the problem is the starter, it immediatly started making this horrible screeching sound.

                                As i was riding power went to below 9 volts and the bike felt like the clutch was slipping. I had gotten caught in the rain and the bike stalled.

                                At the light i had to push start the bike to re-start it. On the second attempt it started right up WOW that was easier than i thought. I was sitting on the bike, pushed with my legs popped the clutch in second and it caught! Don't try this running beside teh bike it can get away from you !

                                Defiently look it up on you tube it really is the easiest way to re-start a bike.

                                So i pulled my old starter after seeing the battery cooking in it's own juices from the heat and the wires to the starter realy melting before my eyes!!

                                I have decided to put a big fuse before the starter relay to avoid this kind of melt down in the future, but i still need to know what is the maximum safe amperage draw for this bike.-anyone know???

                                Waiting on the new starter, once this is done a new rear tire is on the list as are hard bags i'm utilizing military ammunition cases. I'll need to fabricate custom quick release for these though.

                                Hope this saga is helping those in need.

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