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another coil relay gone bad prematurely

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    #16
    Man, all the wiring done here looks so good. Mine looks like crap with a zip tie holding it to the bolt hole where the airbox used to be bolted. New wires for the stator and R/R and now the relay. Looks like some hack got a hold of my bike. It all works great though
    1983 GS 1100E w/ 1230 kit, .340 lift Web Cams, Ape heavy duty valve springs, 83 1100 head with 1.5mm oversized SS intake valves, 1150 crank, Vance and Hines 1150 SuperHub, Star Racing high volume oil pump gears, 36mm carebs Dynojet stage 3 jet kit, Posplayr's SSPB, Progressive rear shocks and fork springs, Dyna 2000, Dynatek green coils and Vance & Hines 4-1 exhaust.
    1985 GS1150ES stock with 85 Red E bodywork.

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      #17
      Another thing to consider with the cheap relays especially from Bosch is that they are sensitive to humidity!, in my experience with Porsches these relays would go bad all the time because the humid air inside the car would condense at night, since the ventilation system on these cars was never good and this moisture created shorts which fried the plastic parts inside them.

      Since these relays are not water proof they are definetly not going to last too long a motorcycle unless shielded from the elements somehow.

      Hope this helps.

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        #18
        Originally posted by seuadr View Post
        that's why i didn't cut any wires to install mine. if i have any failure of the relay and i don't have a replacement, i can simply revert the wiring to stock
        You and me both brother; always leave yourself a way out!

        Worst case I have to lift the tank back a bit and plug in the stock wires and away I go. I'm a big believer in a fail-safe engineering.

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          #19
          Originally posted by p_s View Post
          The three of mine that failed were by the battery box. I tore apart all 3 and on all 3 had the tiny wire connecting the coil the terminal had broken. Vibration killed them. So I spent $100 on a new ignition switch and don't worry about it anymore. And BTW for most models (but not mine) there are cheaper aftermarket ignition switches. I think ~ $30. Might be worth a shot.
          I used one of the screws from the fuse box mounts to mount mine.

          Mine is a cheapo 40amp Pilot brand from the Zone.

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            #20
            Originally posted by Big N daft View Post
            It's been a long time since I meddled with electronics at component level but I was pretty sure a thyristor was effectively a switched diode and would operate on DC. I'm also pretty sure you can get them to work at lower voltages as well

            But thinking about it you wouldn't really need a SSR you could quite easily knock up a MOSFET (or whatever modern equivalent you can think of) as a simple trigger device with a couple of resistors and you'd have a quite robust solution that would be vibration proof to a greater extent than a relay

            The thyristor wouldn't ever turn off.

            What you would want is a mosfet (or bjt if you are willing to live with a 0.2 volt loss), but since they invert, you would want to use 2 ... 1 as a driver, and then a 2nd one to do the switching.

            when you are done, you have essentially built a SSR ...

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              #21
              Originally posted by GQROD View Post
              Another thing to consider with the cheap relays especially from Bosch is that they are sensitive to humidity!, in my experience with Porsches these relays would go bad all the time because the humid air inside the car would condense at night, since the ventilation system on these cars was never good and this moisture created shorts which fried the plastic parts inside them.

              Since these relays are not water proof they are definetly not going to last too long a motorcycle unless shielded from the elements somehow.

              Hope this helps.
              That's the reason I have advocated using silicone sealant to prevent moisture from getting into the relays. My personal choice would be high temp "gasket maker" because it'll seal just like regular silicone, but will resist any heat buildup that could occur near the contacts.

              If one wanted to take it a step further they could use sealant on the contacts themselves (after connecting them, of course) but that would make changing them out a royal pita - not worth it in my opinion.

              Regards,

              Comment


                #22
                Being right next to the battery I very much doubt mine would ever get damp enough to create a problem...
                1980 GS1000G - Sold
                1978 GS1000E - Finished!
                1980 GS550E - Fixed & given to a friend
                1983 GS750ES Special - Sold
                2009 KLR 650 - Sold - gone to TX!
                1982 GS1100G - Rebuilt and finished. - Sold
                2009 TE610 - Dual Sporting around dreaming of Dakar..... - FOR SALE!

                www.parasiticsanalytics.com

                TWINPOT BRAKE UPGRADE LINKY: http://www.thegsresources.com/_forum...e-on-78-Skunk/

                Comment


                  #23
                  The silicone makes a lot of sense I will have to try it when i do my coil relay mod.

                  Comment


                    #24
                    Originally posted by p_s View Post
                    The three of mine that failed were by the battery box. I tore apart all 3 and on all 3 the tiny wire connecting the coil to the terminal had broken. Vibration killed them. So I spent $100 on a new ignition switch and don't worry about it anymore. And BTW for most models (but not mine) there are cheaper aftermarket ignition switches. I think ~ $30. Might be worth a shot.
                    My experience in failure analysis of aerospace relays is that vibration is the number 1 killer of mechanical relays. Failure mechanism is usually vibration induced mechanical miss-alignment of the armature, contact wear, fod in the contacts, and failure of the coil wires due to improper strain relief during manufacture.
                    BTW mine is socketed and I carry a spare. I have not hard mounted mine either. Just a tie wrap through the mounting hole.

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                      #25
                      Turned out not to be the relay after all. My first test was to swap it out with a good one and the bike started. I swapped it again with what I thought was the bad relay and the bike wouldn't start, so my conclusion was the relay was bad. It was coincidence. Had I tested one more time, the bike wouldn't have started. I disassembled the relay and have attached a couple of pictures. It tested fine and by the looks of it, is very well made. I now doubt that unless these are mounted directly on the engine, they are not going to be effected by heat and it would take a lot of vibration to damage these. The case was very tight and the odds of water getting in is slim to none. IMHO, the relays that are malfunctioning prematurely are most likely manufacturing defects in the relay itself. My problem was (I hope) just corroded contacts on the starter.

                      Comment


                        #26
                        Here is the second picture:

                        Comment


                          #27
                          Originally posted by srsupertrap View Post
                          I mounted my Parts Express relay on the Electrical Panel, I guess I better buy a Spare

                          Sorry for the slight hijack :-)
                          Curious???? Whats the switch for behind the pod filter next to the frame rail.

                          Comment


                            #28
                            Probably a top secret security switch... doh
                            1980 GS1000G - Sold
                            1978 GS1000E - Finished!
                            1980 GS550E - Fixed & given to a friend
                            1983 GS750ES Special - Sold
                            2009 KLR 650 - Sold - gone to TX!
                            1982 GS1100G - Rebuilt and finished. - Sold
                            2009 TE610 - Dual Sporting around dreaming of Dakar..... - FOR SALE!

                            www.parasiticsanalytics.com

                            TWINPOT BRAKE UPGRADE LINKY: http://www.thegsresources.com/_forum...e-on-78-Skunk/

                            Comment


                              #29
                              Originally posted by salty_monk View Post
                              Probably a top secret security switch... doh
                              No ... I think it just switches on the light in the garage before he gets there!

                              Regards,

                              Comment


                                #30
                                Originally posted by Texatl View Post
                                Sorry for the slight hijack :-)
                                Curious???? Whats the switch for behind the pod filter next to the frame rail.
                                Turn signal relay.
                                1983 GS 1100E w/ 1230 kit, .340 lift Web Cams, Ape heavy duty valve springs, 83 1100 head with 1.5mm oversized SS intake valves, 1150 crank, Vance and Hines 1150 SuperHub, Star Racing high volume oil pump gears, 36mm carebs Dynojet stage 3 jet kit, Posplayr's SSPB, Progressive rear shocks and fork springs, Dyna 2000, Dynatek green coils and Vance & Hines 4-1 exhaust.
                                1985 GS1150ES stock with 85 Red E bodywork.

                                Comment

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