Looking for some numbers.

[Anonymous]

When checking a signal generator, If the resistance value is in spec,

What type of siganl does it generate? Volts, amp, Hz.
What value should it be?

I beleived my igniter to be faulty. So I ordered a used one from a wreckers. This one showed up and also still no spark. Does anyone have a manual they would scan and send me the test procedures for the igniter and signal generator? My manuals I bought of e-bay are still not here :x

Thanks,
Gavin

[earlfor]

Re: Looking for some numbers.

This question seems to come up fairly frequently, so I have saved a reply from Billy Ricks on the topic. Here's a copy of Billy's post.

Here is how to test the ignitor (CDI). If yours is anything like mine
you should have four terminals in and four out. If you are facing the
left side of the bike looking at the ignitor the four to the rear of the
bike are in, fed by the signal generators. The four to the left are out
to feed signal to the coils.

The four to the rear of the bike will be designated like this, the front
and rear terminals to the far right will be terminals one and two
respectively. The front and rear terminals to the immediate left will be
three and four.

Now, remove plugs one and two and lay them on the head so they are
grounded. With a multi-tester set on the X1ohm mode and the ignition
switch on, connect the negative probe of the multitester to terminal one
and the positive probe to terminal two. The moment you connect the
second probe plug one should fire. Now connect the negative probe to
terminal three and the positive probe to terminal four and plug two
should fire. If the plugs fire then the transistors in the ignitor are
working properly. (Billy Ricks)



Earl

When checking a signal generator, If the resistance value is in spec,

What type of siganl does it generate? Volts, amp, Hz.
What value should it be?

I beleived my igniter to be faulty. So I ordered a used one from a wreckers. This one showed up and also still no spark. Does anyone have a manual they would scan and send me the test procedures for the igniter and signal generator? My manuals I bought of e-bay are still not here :x

Thanks,
Gavin

[Anonymous]

This helps but...

This reply helps but I need more info on the signal generators specifically.
I was hoping to get some numbers.
The signal generator harness I have only has 3 wires. This test seems to require 4.

Thanks,
Gavin Shafer

[Billy Ricks]

You should get 130-200 ohms on each of the units. Your plug for the ignitor is obviously one seperate wire for each signal generator and one common for both.

[Anonymous]

That is what I have. If I measure from the black/white to either wire I get 325-330 ohms on a calibertated meter.

Thanks,
Gavin

[Billy Ricks]

Gavin,
The numbers I gave you are for '83 and up 700/750s so I can't be sure that is what you should be getting. At least you aren't getting infinity or zero.

[Billy Ricks]

My manual says that if you are getting infinity or less than spec they need to be replaced, so yours are probably okay.

[kz]

That is what I have. If I measure from the black/white to either wire I get 325-330 ohms on a calibertated meter.

Thanks,
Gavin

If you can't find what?s wrong, it could be an idea to check with an oscilloscope.

If you want to measure with an oscilloscope you can start to measure on the coils (low Voltage side) to see if you have a correct output signal.

Amplitude should be approx 12 V and the frequency is related to the engine revs.

The engine has four cylinders and each cylinder fires/sparks ones each turn, first cylinder 2 and 3 and after 180 degree/half turn cylinder 1 and 4, due to the electrical design of the Suzuki ignition system, one coil feeds two cylinders.

The system actually makes an ?unnecessary? spark at the exhaust phase of the engine; advantage is that you don?t need a distributor cap.

Meaning one coil supplies one spark every turn.

Engine rpm/60 = Hz of the signal from the pick-up coils.

So if the engine is not starting and you have approx 300 rpm, you should measure 5 Hz on the coils with a 180-degree phase angle, you don?t have to take care of the phase angle, just measure them one at the time, and see that you have 12 V and the Hz corresponding to your engine revs.

If not OK,

Next step is to measure on the igniter unit input; you now should have lower amplitude (can't remember the value) but still the same frequency.

If still not OK, measure as close as possible to the pick-up coils, you should still have the same frequency.

If of any interest, I can explain more in detail..

Good Hunting.