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    #16
    The oil pressure light will come on unless you are capturing 100% of the oil flow coming up through the oil port and sending it up past the oil pressure sensor. If there is any bleed off, often as a result of how the extension piece fits down into the oil port on the engine, the oil pressure light will come on. I’m not familiar with Terry’s adapter but I assume there is a piece that fits down in the oil port of the engine. Check to see if the top of the piece is flush with the top of the oil cavity – if the piece is sitting down in the cavity, there will be bleed off when the top plate is installed.

    Another reason the oil light sometimes comes on is because the oil pressure sensor is compressing the plunger spring too hard on the sensor itself. You should be able to watch the plunger turn as you are screwing in the sensor – the sensor will stop turning when it hits the stop on the bottom. The amount of compression on the plunger should only be very slight – about 1 turn of the sensor. If you are getting too much compression you need to fit a thicker o-ring on the sensor to stack it up higher. This will allow the plunger to be pushed out of the way easier thus interrupting the ground path that turns the light on.

    Edit: regarding why the oil light starts off okay and then comes on later, it's because the oil is thinning out thus the pressure is lower.

    Hope this helps.
    Last edited by Nessism; 08-06-2008, 04:56 PM.
    Ed

    To measure is to know.

    Mikuni O-ring Kits For Sale...https://www.thegsresources.com/_foru...ts#post1703182

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      #17
      I honestly can't tell what other variables there are to adjust other than perhaps I did not add enough oil.

      Both the sensor light and the oil pressure gauge agree. So is it still possible I don't have enough oil and that that is the cause?



      I don't think I even added 1/2 a quart more than what was in there before the oil cooler.

      Anyone interested in buying an oil adaptor and cooler ?

      Comment


        #18
        "I’m not familiar with Terry’s adapter but I assume there is a piece that fits down in the oil port of the engine. Check to see if the top of the piece is flush with the top of the oil cavity – if the piece is sitting down in the cavity, there will be bleed off when the top plate is installed."

        The little adaptor that comes with the plate seems to only fit down into the oil cavity. There is a picture of it in one of Cafe Kids threds.

        But putting it down in the cave leaves the top fush with the adaptor plate. I'll see of I can find that picture and put a link.

        Comment


          #19
          Originally posted by ryonker View Post
          The little adaptor that comes with the plate seems to only fit down into the oil cavity. There is a picture of it in one of Cafe Kids threds.

          But putting it down in the cave leaves the top fush with the adaptor plate. I'll see of I can find that picture and put a link.
          The depth of the oil port varies from one engine to another, it's best if you use a straight edge across the top of yours while the adapter is installed to varify it's flush with the top and you are not getting bleed off.
          Ed

          To measure is to know.

          Mikuni O-ring Kits For Sale...https://www.thegsresources.com/_foru...ts#post1703182

          Top Newbie Mistakes thread...http://www.thegsresources.com/_forum...d.php?t=171846

          Carb rebuild tutorial...https://gsarchive.bwringer.com/mtsac...d_Tutorial.pdf

          KZ750E Rebuild Thread...http://www.thegsresources.com/_forum...0-Resurrection

          Comment


            #20
            Here is that link with a couple photos of the adaptor and the little piece that fits down into the oil port.

            This forum contains old posts which may have information which may be useful. It is a closed forum in that you can not post here any longer. Please post your questions in the other technical forums.

            Comment


              #21
              It's not so much the little barrel that goes down into the block, it's the cylinder into which the pressure sensor sits. Unless it matches the dimensions of the original cavity perfectly, it will sense pressure differently. If there is just barely enough room for the sensor to slide in the cavity, it won't take much to push it off the contacts. If there is a millimeter of space around the sensor, it may never get off the contacts because all the oil is going around the edge, instead of pushing it away from the contacts.

              Adding oil will not raise the pressure unless it's cold oil. Your pressure drops as the oil warms up because the oil gets thinner and can flow easier, and this also affects how it flows around the gap around the pressure sensor that turns off your light.

              Above all, remember that is't not pressure that lubricates your engine, it's flow. Unfortunately, I have yet to see an engine with an oil flow meter. If you have trouble agreeing with this concept, imagine this: block off the oil gallery just beyond your pressure gauge port. You will see all kinds of pressure on the gauge, but not a drop will be going anywhere inside the engine.

              .
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              Comment


                #22
                The pressure sensor works by completing a ground path for the light through the metal plunger. When there is no oil flow the plunger is seated over the oil port thus making the ground path. The plunger should completely cover the oil feed port. When oil comes up through the port, the bottomed out plunger get pushed out of the way thus interrupting the ground path and turning out the light. The oil only flows around the plunger after it’s pushed out of the way - oil should not be able to flow around the plunger due to side clearance.

                I still suspect pressure bleed off at the round piece that fits into the oil pressure port on the engine. My home built adapter had this problem until it was sealed off to capture all the oil flow.
                Last edited by Nessism; 08-06-2008, 05:59 PM.
                Ed

                To measure is to know.

                Mikuni O-ring Kits For Sale...https://www.thegsresources.com/_foru...ts#post1703182

                Top Newbie Mistakes thread...http://www.thegsresources.com/_forum...d.php?t=171846

                Carb rebuild tutorial...https://gsarchive.bwringer.com/mtsac...d_Tutorial.pdf

                KZ750E Rebuild Thread...http://www.thegsresources.com/_forum...0-Resurrection

                Comment


                  #23
                  Originally posted by ryonker View Post
                  I just added a little oil and started it up.....
                  I have asked the same question in the past, but no one had an answer....how much oil does the (1150) cooler and lines approximately hold? I guess none have actually measured the capacity . I usually fill to the 'full' mark and then add about 1/4 quart more. My 'guestimate' put the volume (for this cooler) at around 1/2 quart. Next time I have the cooler off for whatever reason, I will actually fill it and measure the amount, so all of us will finally know for sure.

                  Tony.
                  '82 GS1100E



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                    #24
                    I will take it all apart tonight and check if the little adaptor is flush to the top of the port.

                    If it's not exactly flush, what do I do?

                    So I just now started the bike again, and it runs/idles at about 2 psi and the sensor light is off.

                    I roll the throttle, it goes up to 6 psi, but as it decelerates, the light flickers back on a little then off again.

                    should I just run it like this? Is there any danger to the engine?

                    Comment


                      #25
                      Originally posted by Mysuzyq View Post
                      I have asked the same question in the past, but no one had an answer....how much oil does the (1150) cooler and lines approximately hold? I guess none have actually measured the capacity . I usually fill to the 'full' mark and then add about 1/4 quart more. My 'guestimate' put the volume (for this cooler) at around 1/2 quart. Next time I have the cooler off for whatever reason, I will actually fill it and measure the amount, so all of us will finally know for sure.

                      Tony.
                      i read somewhere it holds about a quart. i have no idea what thread but i believe it was here in the GS resources when i was thinking about installing a cooler.

                      Comment


                        #26
                        Since we are on the subject This is something I have wondered about. My bike came with an oil cooler an 82GS1100gk I'm not sure if it was stock or not. There are 2 lines coming from the oil filter case to the cooler. So should I just fill the oil to the top of the window while on the center stand or should I add more to allow for the cooler and the lines? Anybody feel like weighing in on this. Thanks in advance.

                        Comment


                          #27
                          Originally posted by Mysuzyq View Post
                          I have asked the same question in the past, but no one had an answer....how much oil does the (1150) cooler and lines approximately hold? I guess none have actually measured the capacity . I usually fill to the 'full' mark and then add about 1/4 quart more. My 'guestimate' put the volume (for this cooler) at around 1/2 quart. Next time I have the cooler off for whatever reason, I will actually fill it and measure the amount, so all of us will finally know for sure.

                          Tony.
                          I have an aftermarket cooler on my 1100E that I guessed at 1/4 quart volume. It may actually be 1/2 quart but the difference shouldn't be too bad since the oil pickup is still bathed in oil. Note that drag bikes run only a couple of quarts to reduce fluid drag but still get enough oil (not recommended for daily driving..).

                          NESSISM: I've thought about adding a pressure guage to satisfy my neurosis. You have way more knowledge than I do . What do I need for an '82 1100E?

                          Comment


                            #28
                            Ok; I took everything apart. Interestingly, the return line from the cooler did not drip oil; it seemed almost dry. Oil did drip out of the other line.

                            I know when I was driving the cooler got pretty hot, so oil must have been flowing through it.

                            I took a straight edge and found that the little piece that fits down in the oil port is NOT perfectly flush to the top edges of the outside of the port where the adapter fits. It's off by maybe 1/32?

                            Any thoughts?

                            Comment


                              #29
                              Originally posted by ryonker View Post
                              Ok; I took everything apart. Interestingly, the return line from the cooler did not drip oil; it seemed almost dry. Oil did drip out of the other line.

                              I know when I was driving the cooler got pretty hot, so oil must have been flowing through it.


                              Any thoughts?
                              Check (with air pressure, maybe) if there is a blockage....oil might be flowing into the cooler, but not out of it.....oil usually drips out from both banjos when unbolted.

                              Tony.
                              Last edited by Mysuzyq; 08-06-2008, 07:20 PM.
                              '82 GS1100E



                              Comment


                                #30
                                Ryonker,

                                The oil pressure light flickering during deceleration indicates that the plunger might be moving sideways and contacting the side of the bore - thus completing the ground path. I’ve noticed that some pressure sensor switches have more lateral play than others. When you pull off the adapter pull out the sensor and see if there is enough lateral play for the metal plunger to hit the side of the bore. Also check to see how tight the plunger is against the bottom of the oil feed port; if it’s too tight, the oil will have a hard time pushing it out of the way.

                                The 1/32” clearance is pretty marginal since it will allow leakage – this can cause the light to come on at idle after the oil thins out when it gets hot. I’d contact Terry and ask him what’s up with that. You may be able to put a gasket on the extension piece to snug it up but just make sure the gasket is captured properly so it can’t move or fall out.

                                In terms of how much oil to add, most coolers don’t hold a ton of oil – maybe ¼ quart or so. Each situation is different though so can generalize on this. I recommend adding extra oil – above the window. If your bike has rubber lines you can quickly clamp off the lines right at the adapter immediately after shutting down the engine. This will capture the oil in the cooler and allow you to check the oil level in the crankcase using the sight glass.

                                Hope this helps.
                                Ed

                                To measure is to know.

                                Mikuni O-ring Kits For Sale...https://www.thegsresources.com/_foru...ts#post1703182

                                Top Newbie Mistakes thread...http://www.thegsresources.com/_forum...d.php?t=171846

                                Carb rebuild tutorial...https://gsarchive.bwringer.com/mtsac...d_Tutorial.pdf

                                KZ750E Rebuild Thread...http://www.thegsresources.com/_forum...0-Resurrection

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