Carbs on... Bogs....

[Johnny K]

Took the carbs and intake boots off. Intake boots and o-rings are squishy and pliable. I took that signal generator cover off and took a 19mm socket and rotated clockwise and no squeaking. I was wishing it was that, but wasnt so I started the bike and let it warm up and then preceded to turn the mixture screws in or out. But it doesn't matter how many in or out, once the idle goes below 2000, it slowly stalls. The main grey wire that comes off of the dyna S and then out the cover had a very very tiny opening like from a razor. It is small, but if I spread it open a little more, I can see the smallest bit of copper that is coming from the wires within. I put electrical tape over it and making sure when I covered that tiny exposed wire, that the wire was closed as I put electrical tape over it. Im just remembering that now because it happened at least 8 months ago. Could that have any affect on whats going on?

[chef1366]

The 19mm won't turn the advance. Just grab the crank trigger and twist. This is the part that points at the two coils and breaks the spark. It is inside the 19mm fake nut.

[Johnny K]

okay so i take that 19mm nut off.... then what... (just have no clue about how this is done) thanks. start the bike?

[chef1366]

Don't take off anything. The part with the piece sticking out that points at the thingys on both sides of the ignition when it spins. This should move freely clockwise till the advance stops it. The advance is way inside with little springs on it.

[Johnny K]

I have not done a compression on all the cylinders. I dont a tool for that, and dont know how to do that. Am I supposed to start the bike chef? Sorry, just confused on how to check if the advance is sticking or not.

[Nessism]

The 1982 850 does not have a mechanical advance - ignition advance is built into the ignitor. If your bike has a Dyna S installed it needs to also have a mechanical advance transplanted from an earlier 850/1000/1100.

Once you have the mechanical advance installed, you should be able to use your fingers and grab the black magnetic ring on the rotor and twist it with your fingers - is should rotate for about 20 degrees or so under spring load. It's common for the Dyna S magnetic ring to bind when the screw is locked down due to inadequate clearance under the washer. Play around with the washer thickness until you have a few thousands clearance when the screw is tightened down.

Hope this helps.

[Johnny K]

Okay, I finally figured out what you guys were talking about. I grabbed the black magnetic thing and twisted it. Not sure about degrees on how much much it twisted, but was like a tightly wound spring. As far as that washer goes, I dont have anything to measure when there is a few thousands clearance when the screw is tightened down. There is a washer that spins freely around the that nut.

[Johnny K]

Today I tried to see if I can get my bike to idle below 2000rpm. No luck. I did another stator test and it was fine. Battery was at norm range and when revved to 5000rpm, it was below 14.8. Meaning it was charging fine. I have new intake boots with new o-rings. I haven't done the WD-40 test on the boots. New o-rings on the carbs when dipped and cleaned. I bought new float needles and set float heights to spec. My question would be take apart the carbs and inspect the o-rings/float height/smooth slide going up and down?? How do you clean the slides if mine don't move up and down smoothly? My slides have a small hole drilled at the base. I guess that is for the dyno-jet III system?? I have never played with the height of the tiny washers up inside of that. Guess just afraid of pulling it out and not knowing how to put it back in. Anyways, I'm still trying to play with the mixture screws to get it not to pop or back fire and rev nice and smooth, but I can't do that until I fix the idle problem that was there before the carb rebuild and so forth. I havent done a valve check because 1) I dont have a feeler guage. 2)Don't have a torque wrench to re-torque the bolts after checking valves. I did this at my mechanics because he had the feeler guage and knew how to measure the valves and shims and so forth. I'm just literally stuck and have no where to go because I've exhausted so many ideas. Any help on my problem is greatly appreciated. Thanks guys.