Bike Won't Start...

[Chester Gunn]

I am the proud owner of a 1983 GS 650 L. Up until now, the bike has run just fine...in fact very well. Now, for some reason it will not turn over. I can push the bike off and it starts rather easily, but the starter will not turn over. I have a sneaky suspicion that it's not making a complete circuit. Due to a minor accident, we had to replace the left side clutch mounting bracket, which also had 2 wires running underneath. I'm now of the opinion that is the safety switch which requires the clutch to be depressed before starting can occurr. The replacement part seemed to be identical.

To make a long story short, we were having trouble with the choke sticking, so we lubricated. While we were at it, we lubricated both the clutch and brake levers. Afterwards, the bike started right up with no hesitation. But, later on that evening, the bike would not turn over...period. We've checked fuses, loose wires, and even took the controls off of both sides of the handlebars just to make sure everything went back together properly... Now, when we turn the key and depress the start button...nothing happens... One more thing..initally when the bike would not start, I wiggled the choke lever and the bike started once...I was unable to repeat this occurance.

Are we overlooking something here? Could it be a starter problem? Are there other wires that we can check? Do we need a voltage meter to check the switches and connections?

Any and all help would be greatly appreciated..

Chester Gunn/Chula, GA

[Dogma]

If the clutch safety switch has to close to enable starting, then you could short those two wires to bypass the switch. If that doesn't get it, I think you'll have to get a multimeter and start looking for things that happened coincidentally.

[Matchless]

First of all, your starter solenoid should click when you push the starter button, if that is not happening then the starter will not turn. You can check the yellow/green wire on the solenoid, it should turn the starter if you briefly connect it to battery positive.
Very likely its your starter disconnect switch, you need a wiring diagram and a voltmeter if you want to fix electrical faults.

[BassCliff]

Hee Haw Howdy!

Hi Mr. Chester Gunn,

Let it be known that on this day you are cordially and formally welcomed to the GSR Forum as a Junior Member in good standing with all the rights and privileges thereof. Further let it be known that your good standing can be improved with pictures (not you, your bike)!

Perhaps you've already seen these, but I like to remind all the new members. In addition to the carb rebuild series, I recommend visiting the In The Garage section via the GSR Homepage and check out the Stator Papers. There's also a lot of great information in the Old Q&A section. I have some documentation on my little BikeCliff website to help get you familiar with doing routine maintenance tasks (note that it is 850G-specific but many tasks are common to all GS bikes). Other "user contributed" informational sites include those of Mr. bwringer, Mr. tfb and Mr. robertbarr. And if your bike uses shims for valve adjustments, send an email to Mr. Steve requesting a copy of his Excel spreadsheet that helps you keep track of clearances, shim sizes and other service work.

These are some edited quotes from one of our dear beloved gurus, Mr. bwringer, with ideas on basic needs (depending on initial condition), parts, and accessories.

***********Quoted from Mr. bwringer************
Every GS850 [and most other models] has (or had) a set of well-known issues that MUST be addressed before you have a solid baseline for further troubleshooting. It's a vintage bike, and it's quite common (as in, every single GS850 I have had contact with) that there are multiple problems that have crept up and slowly gotten worse over the years. It's not like a newer vehicle, where there's generally one problem at a time.

These common issues are:

1. Intake O-rings (install NEW OEM or Viton only - common nitrile O-rings will quickly deteriorate from heat)
2. Intake Boots (install NEW -- these cannot be repaired)
3. Valve clearances (more important than most people think)
4. Carb/airbox boots
5. Airbox sealing
6. Air filter sealing
7. Petcock (install a NEW one)
8. On '79 models, install new points or Dyna electronic ignition (or at least verify that the old points are working correctly)
9. On all models, it's fairly common to have problems with the spark plug caps. These are $3 or $4 each, and often worth replacing if you're keeping the stock coils/wires.
10. Stock exhaust with NO leaks or holes -- good seals at the head and at the junctions underneath.

Carburetor maintenance:

Replace the intake boot o-rings, and possibly the intake boots. Here's the procedure:

http://bwringer.com/gs/intakeorings.html

Here's an overview of what happens with this particular problem:

http://cycleorings.com/intake.html

You'll also want to examine the boots between the carbs and the airbox. There's a good chance these are OK, but check them over.
And finally, if things still aren't exactly right, you'll want to order a set of o-rings for BS carbs from the GS owner's best friend, Robert Barr:

http://cycleorings.com

Once you receive these rare rings of delight, then you'll want to thoroughly clean and rebuild your carburetors. Here are step-by-step instructions that make this simple:

http://thegsresources.com/gs_carbrebuild.htm

OEM Parts/Online Fiches:

I would definitely double and triple the recommendations to use Cycle Recycle II and Z1 Enterprises as much as possible. These guys are priceless resources. Z1 tends to have slightly better prices, CRC2 has a wider range of goodies available. If you're near Indy and can bring in an old part to match, CRC2 has a vast inventory of used parts.
http://denniskirk.com - Put in your bike model and see what they have.
http://oldbikebarn.com - seems to be slowly regaining a decent reputation, but it's still caveat emptor. They don't have anything you can't get elsewhere at a better price anyway.
http://www.babbittsonline.com/ - Decent parts prices. Spendy shipping. Don't give you part numbers at all. Useful cross-reference if you obtain a part number elsewhere. Efficient service.
http://bikebandit.com - Fastest. Middlin' prices. Uses their own parts numbering system to obfuscate price comparisons -- can be very confusing for large orders. Cheapest shipping, so total cost usually isn't too bad.
http://flatoutmotorcycles.com - Slow. Cheapest parts prices, crazy shipping costs. Don't expect progress updates or much communication. Real Suzuki part numbers.
http://alpha-sports.com - Exorbitant parts prices. Different type of fiche interface that's quite useful at times, especially with superceded part numbers. Real parts numbers. Shipping cost and speed unknown due to insane, unholy pricing.

Stainless Bolts, Viton o-rings, metric taps, dies, assorted hard-to-find supplies and materials, etc:

http://mcmaster.com - Fast, cheap shipping, good prices. No order minimum, but many items like bolts come in packs of 25 or 50. Excellent resource.
http://motorcycleseatcovers.com - Great quality, perfect fit (on original seat foam), and available for pretty much every bike ever made. Avoid the textured vinyl -- it's perforated.
http://newenough.com - You DO have riding gear, don't you? Great clearances, always outstanding prices and impeccable service.
***************End Quote**********************

Additional parts/info links:

GSR Forum member Mr. duaneage has great used upgraded Honda regulator/rectifiers for our bikes. Send him a PM.
New electrical parts:
http://stores.ebay.com/RMSTATOR or http://www.rmstator.com/

http://www.ricksmotorsportelectrics.com/index.php

http://www.electrosport.com/

For valve cover and breather gaskets, I recommend Real Gaskets (reusable silicon):

http://www.realgaskets.com

Carolina Cycle

http://www.carolinacycle.com

Ron Ayers Motorsports

http://www.ronayers.com

MR Cycles

http://www.mrcycles.com

Moto Grid

http://www.motogrid.com

Salvage/Used

http://www.ricepaddymotorcycles.com

http://www.ozpowersports.com/

If all else fails, try this:

http://www.used-motorcycle-parts.org/

Used bike buying checklists:

http://www.amadirectlink.com/roadride/Riderresc/checklist.asp

http://www.clarity.net/~adam/buying-bike.html
Lots of good info/pictures here:

http://www.suzukicycles.org

http://www.cyclechaos.com/wiki/Motorcycle_Wiki

http://www.bikepics.com
Basic motorcycle maintenance/repair:
http://www.dansmc.com/mc_repaircourse.htm
Online Clymer manuals:
http://search.ebscohost.com/ Click on "Small Engine Repair" then "Motorcycles". User=library, password=library. Note: This link may not work if you are on a school campus.

Thanks for joining us. Keep us informed of your progress. There's lots of good folk with good experience here.


Thank you for your indulgence,

BassCliff
(The unofficial GSR greeter)

Click here to visit BikeCliff's website.

[Dave8338]

If it is not the clutch safety switch, I would try a ground jumper to the solenoid itself. After I replaced my R/R...I did a good job of cleaning everything up and treating things to a few coats of satin black...long story short, I effectively insulated the ground to the solenoid so that it would not engage. As this was the only point of the bike I was working on, I knew it had to be that.

[Chester Gunn]

Thanks to all...

It turned out to be a problem with the "cluth interlock switch"..or what ever you call it.. We bypassed the switch and it started right away...Thanks to everyone for their help...I don't know how many of you have ever riden a GS 650 L, but these things are "dynamite" in a small package....UNBELIVEABLE acceleration.. It's like having a fancy Italian sports car without the high payment...or insurance....To be 25 years old, this bike is truly an epihany...every time you ride it...I couldn't imagine what the bigger GS bikes are like..

Thanks again,

Chester Gunn/Chula, GA

[Chester Gunn]

Man, I looked at your bike and it is gorgeous....I don't have to ask how well it runs... I know that answer........