86 GSXR 1100 Mukuni Flatslides 36 mm

[posplayr]

Hi I just got a new parts bike I'm trying to get to run right. It runs but I think the PO doinked with the carbs. If he applied the same skill set as he did to gapping the plugs to 0.045" then I got problems.

Anyway, I pulled the carbs apart, spray cleaned then, removed varnish and hoped for the best on the float height. Anyway it seems it is off as #4 is flowing over .

Anyone know what the float height should be and point me where to look on setting the level. I have two manual coming from Flea bay but just ordered them yesterday.

OK some pics for motivation






Thanks

Posplayr

[tone]

Float height 14.6mm +or- 1mm

15mm will be fine

[posplayr]

Tone

Thanks for the answer. I got 14mm from Chef yesterday and have set them as close as can. The plastic floats are not always the same on both sides so I just sort of split the difference at 14 mm.

I found two plugged pilot jets so now it idles much better. I adjusted all of the pilot air screws to 2 1/2 turns they seemed to be set by the PO between 2 1/4 to 3 1/4 so I just went to a know starting point.

The mains are Munuki ?? (no markings) 124's . The pilot jets are 32.5 with a funny square symbol in front. I could not get the pilot air screws out , needed a better screwdriver.

The needles have notches but are very worn at the tips or were ground down with something.

Trying to find the right screwdrivers so I can set the pilot air screws and then balance the carbs.

Thanks again.

Posplayr

P.S I read the Munuki Sudo manual and was planning on setting pilot air screws based on max engine RPM (split diff between rich/lean) and then balancing the carb butterfly settiing based on vacuum. I assume the little nipple on the plastic slide covers are where you measure individual carb vacuum?

[tone]

stock settings & jets for 86 gsxr BST34SS carbs

main jet 130
main air jet 0.6
needle jet p-2
pilot jet 32.5
pilot air jet 135 pilot screw setting preset
starter jet 42.5

these are the stock us specs taken from a haynes manual uk specs are slightly different but we dont have to contend with the emission controll bull

vac guages connect to the carb tops as you presumed & i'd guess the pilots are stock mics too

ive run a gix 11 slabby with pod filters & a race pipe, no need to change the pilot jets but you will need to richen the mixture via the air screw & mains

hope it helps & if you want the uk specs just for fun shout up

[posplayr]

130 v.s. 124 main jets on 36 mm Flatslide

stock settings & jets for 86 gsxr BST34SS carbs

main jet 130
main air jet 0.6
needle jet p-2
pilot jet 32.5
pilot air jet 135 pilot screw setting preset
starter jet 42.5

So given I've got a 36mm carbs probably off of an 1989+ what would you think of the 124 Mukuni main jets?

I'm starting to think I might not be too far off with the way the bike came to me.

The bike was apparently built by some biker guys; it has the Yosh side cover, very loud MUZZY exhaust, 92 USD forks/wheels and the later 36mm flat slides. I don't know about the engine but it doesn't sound stock; very mean. The PO had purchased this bike 4 years ago and I think he only rode it maybe 20 times and probably did not even change the oil. It did try and do the plugs apparently as mentioned previously they were set at 0.045"


Posplayr

[tone]

oops sorry i mis read that

BST36SS main jet is 122.5 as stock so i would have thought 124's would be a bit small but you never can tell tbh till you ride it & do some plug chops

Did you measure the carbs to be sure of the size ?
& another question have you checked the barrels to be sure wether its a 1052 or 1127 (or started out as one of those ) just a thought as its been messed with a fair bit & theres no telling what you actually have unless you check

[Carter Turk]

I have some 90 11 carbs on my 1150. The stock pilot jet size is 30. The emulsion tubes or needle jets have a tendency to oval out creating a rich condition. I replaced these in my carbs and noticed the number one jet was broken under the main jet. I think they're around $18 a piece.

There's a great carb cleaning series at Gixxer.com on the very same carbs you're dealing with.

I set my plug gaps at .035 is that bad? Wouldn't a bigger spark create more complete combustion? I have Dyna 3 ohm green coils. Seems to work for me.

[posplayr]

Tone

oops sorry i mis read that

BST36SS main jet is 122.5 as stock so i would have thought 124's would be a bit small but you never can tell tbh till you ride it & do some plug chops

Did you measure the carbs to be sure of the size ?
& another question have you checked the barrels to be sure wether its a 1052 or 1127 (or started out as one of those ) just a thought as its been messed with a fair bit & theres no telling what you actually have unless you check

No problems, I assumed you were looking at that great ride and not the title of the post .

Anyway the carb bores measured out at just under 36 mm. The case says 1052, but it might have been bored; I don't know. It seems to be running much better as I just got back from a quick sunset ride. Pulls very strong and the little bit of smoking seems to be clearing up. A little bit of bobble at part throttle, but responds very nicely to throttle oppening. Nice strong engine for this bike.

The bike as it is , is too small for me. I'm considering raising the seat to see if that will help. My knees just dont bend that much and I can use the rear break (I have 51 year old knees).

Posplayr

[posplayr]

Carter Turk

I have some 90 11 carbs on my 1150. The stock pilot jet size is 30. The emulsion tubes or needle jets have a tendency to oval out creating a rich condition. I replaced these in my carbs and noticed the number one jet was broken under the main jet. I think they're around $18 a piece.

These needles are pretty bad, they have been "machined" with sandpaper I think .

I just won a partial kit that is supposed to have some needles in it. $20 including shipping.

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&rd=1&item=170246879014&ssPageName=STRK:MEWN:IT&ih=007

Also won a manual

http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll...268537170&rd=1

After playing around with this bike, I'm probably going to part it out and use the suspension for a GSXR conversion for my GS1100ED; if the carbs work out I'll probably swap them to the GS. Chef set up my GS1150 36mm MIkuni CV's (Stage III running on the 138's) and it does run great, so I'm in no big hurry.

There's a great carb cleaning series at Gixxer.com on the very same carbs you're dealing with.

I'll take a look see.

I set my plug gaps at .035 is that bad? Wouldn't a bigger spark create more complete combustion? I have Dyna 3 ohm green coils. Seems to work for me.

Well I have gapped the plugs on my Motorhome Dodge 440 from aboyt 0.030 to 0.065" as per the directions from Jacobs electronics. These GSXR coils looks stokc and simply going back to 0.028", help the way the bike ran remarkably even with two plugged pilot jets (before I cleaned the carbs).

So my things to do list now is:

1.) Swap out the needles
2.) Compression test
3.) adjust valves (need to get a valve cover gasket)
4.) raise the seat???
5.) put some air in the tires???

Anyway quick bike, that needs to getting used to

Posplayr

[tone]

Hello again

just a bit of info 9 times out of 10 you can re-use the cam cover gasket on the oil cooled engines unless some fool has nipped it , they are rubber & are designed to be re-used many times

when you arre refitting the cam cover make sure the gasket is sitting square before tightening down & check lots of times that the small plug hole seals are correctly in place or as soon as you fire it up it will fill the plug holes with oil that will eventually come out of the drain holes at the front of the engine

if you intend using the suspension for a project & this one still has the stock slabby swingarm & shock i really woudnt bother trying to use that as they were pretty useless from new a better bet imo would to be to use the wheel but find a better later model swingarm & shock

hope it helps

[posplayr]

Tone

just a bit of info 9 times out of 10 you can re-use the cam cover gasket on the oil cooled engines unless some fool has nipped it , they are rubber & are designed to be re-used many times

when you arre refitting the cam cover make sure the gasket is sitting square before tightening down & check lots of times that the small plug hole seals are correctly in place or as soon as you fire it up it will fill the plug holes with oil that will eventually come out of the drain holes at the front of the engine

Thanks for that input. I saw the rubber gasket and wondered if I could take it off without damaging it. Does the valve adjustment work as the GS1100? (I just wone teh manual off e-bay so it will take another week or so) What clearance, and lift does the cam have. I thought I would measure the left to see if these were stock cams.

if you intend using the suspension for a project & this one still has the stock slabby swingarm & shock i really woudnt bother trying to use that as they were pretty useless from new a better bet imo would to be to use the wheel but find a better later model swingarm & shock

The front is 92 USD, and there is a 5.5" wheel on the rear, so I think these are 92 equivalent wheels also. I'll take a shot to see if the swing arm was also swapped out as I would not know.

If I part out the bike, it would be to move the USD and wheels to my GS1100ED. I would need one of Kat man's modified Bandit swing arms in that case. I have the SU-135 Ohlins already.

Posplayr

[posplayr]

Moving a thread to here

I moved this post from another thread as it is more approriate here.

http://www.thegsresources.com/_forum/showthread.php?t=130678

I would say you want a smoked windscreen to work with red, anything else would clash to my eye.

That is what I was thinking, unless I was trying to go all "period" and get the clear.

Those are quality forks, you won't want Progressive Suspension springs in them. Go to RaceTech and get the correct rate for your weight and maybe Gold Valves for the damping cartridges. It will work fantastic like that with nothing else required

The USD's are supposed to be 1992; I assume these are the racetech parts your talking about ....

http://www.racetech.com/evalving/english/Srchpr.asp?bikeid=392&manufacture=Suzuki&model=GSX %2DR1100&year=91%2D93&TABLEINFO=street&langname=en glish

FMGV S2530 Cartridge Emulators

FRSP S3530 Frt Fork Springs

What do you recommend for the rear?

Does the swing arm look like the stock 86? Tone says they are not worth much

For an alternate tail piece, check out Airtech. They carried a lot of different bodywork for the oil cooled GSXR's and should have something to suit your taste. The solo seat like my 750 LTD had would be pretty close to what you show on the Yosh race bike if they still offer that and it is set up so that you could add a pretty thick seat pad to add height if you wanted to.

This one is for the 89-90, but it has a more full shape than the plain straight sides of the 86 tails (I already have the solo seat cap). Do you have any experience with the air-tech parts? Quality, fit, material fiberglass?

Posplayr

[Mark M]

I moved this post from another thread as it is more approriate here.

http://www.thegsresources.com/_forum/showthread.php?t=130678

That is what I was thinking, unless I was trying to go all "period" and get the clear.

The USD's are supposed to be 1992; I assume these are the racetech parts your talking about ....

http://www.racetech.com/evalving/english/Srchpr.asp?bikeid=392&manufacture=Suzuki&model=GSX %2DR1100&year=91%2D93&TABLEINFO=street&langname=en glish

FMGV S2530 Cartridge Emulators

FRSP S3530 Frt Fork Springs

What do you recommend for the rear?

Does the swing arm look like the stock 86? Tone says they are not worth much

This one is for the 89-90, but it has a more full shape than the plain straight sides of the 86 tails (I already have the solo seat cap). Do you have any experience with the air-tech parts? Quality, fit, material fiberglass?

Posplayr

Thanks for the move, I realized I hijacked the other thread after I posted that.

Those are the parts, but that is a cartridge fork, not a damper rod fork. You would put in Gold Valves, not emulators.

I would find an aftermarket shock on Ebay, there are still lots of them around. Get it rebuilt and never worry again. Ohlins is probably the premium choice, but there are others as well, like Fox, Works Performance and possibly more I don't know of.

From the pic, the swing arm looks original, but it is hard to tell with the angle. I know 17" wheels were an easy swap to the oil cooled GSXR's, I would expect the PO simply put a 17" rear wheel in the stock swing arm. There are no width issues like with the GS's. It looks good with that USD fork on there, almost makes me wish for my 86 back...

No experience with the Airtech stuff, but I have heard their gel coat and finishing quality is pretty spotty. From what I have heard, you just need to plan on doing some prep before painting their stuff. The big plus is that they have molds for an incredible range of parts, which many of the other bodywork suppliers don't offer.

Mark

[posplayr]

I called air-tech

Sounds like It would be easiest for me to go with this tail section. It comes with a matching seat pan to adjust the height as required.

I could dome the seat pan and then have it upholstered.

Posplayr

[posplayr]

Yoshimura world superbike bodywork

That last one was the Wrong pic? See attachement for the right one.

I think this is the one I shoudl have been looking at; period and it is also primarily RED

Posplayr