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After 2 weeks back from the shop I doubt if they are going to accept responsibility for the problems you are having now. You can always try, but it seems like a waiste of time and effort.
You say that when you drained the oil there were lots of metal shavings. The stator cover did not have any of these little buggers in there. If it were my motor I would pull it and split the cases to see what the problem is. Don't bother going to a mechanic. If you have reasonable skills the job can be done at home. The first thing you need to do is identify what failed.
When you split the cases make sure to reove ALL of the bolts. If the don't come apart right off - look for more bolts! I used a rubber mallet and tapped mine where ever I could and they came apart. Don't pry on the sealing surfaces.
You don't need to send the cases to a machine shop unless there is something wrong with them (prying on the sealing surfaces will give you a reason to send them out!). Inspect for cracks, clips, gouges. Not much else can go wrong.
Check the crankshast assembly out thoroughly. I don't know if you have a full roller beaingcrank, but if you do, it's easy to see if something is wrong. Your manual will give you side to side clearances on the rod bearings. Rotate the bearings to see if they grind. If the do, try to pull the races off to the side to inspect the rollers. If there is any damage the crank will have to be replaced. Ebay has some every once in a while for a reasonable price, maybe $100 or so. One of the main bearings can be easily replaced, the rest require a press and some expertise. If you don't want a used one, you will need to send the crank out to be repaired. This won't be cheap.
You could also have a probem in the transmission, but I doubt it. Not many moving parts there when the bike is running and in neutral. Inspect it anyway while apart.
Clean everything and note where it came from. The manual will help when putting it back together. There are those on this site that have done this also. It's not rocket science, you can do it too.
If it was mine, that's what I would do. The number one reason is - why not? If the crank is bad (worst case scenerio) you wont get much for it anyway, so why not find out what's wrong. Number two reason - I don't like to purchase used engines. You could get something almost as bad as yours just prior to the big band. Number three - it's too expensive to give to a mechanic - way too expensive. Number four - With all new seals and gaskets - she will be sealed up tigher than a drum. No leaks or weaps anymore. Last - look at all the experience you get on this one.
I ordered a bottom end gasket kit for mine bike (1100) at the local parts house for less than $20 (Cometic). The seals need to be ordered individually - a bit pricey - about $100 through bikebandit. The rest of the parts cost will be replacing broken or worn stuff. Oh, need a top end gasket kit too.
Here's an edit that I forgot to include. If I was going to buy a used motor to replace it. I would still split the cases to see what the problem was. Then when I got the used motor, I'd split them and rebuild the used motor. You will never have a better time to do this chore.
Give it a shot, what have you got to loose.
You say that when you drained the oil there were lots of metal shavings. The stator cover did not have any of these little buggers in there. If it were my motor I would pull it and split the cases to see what the problem is. Don't bother going to a mechanic. If you have reasonable skills the job can be done at home. The first thing you need to do is identify what failed.
When you split the cases make sure to reove ALL of the bolts. If the don't come apart right off - look for more bolts! I used a rubber mallet and tapped mine where ever I could and they came apart. Don't pry on the sealing surfaces.
You don't need to send the cases to a machine shop unless there is something wrong with them (prying on the sealing surfaces will give you a reason to send them out!). Inspect for cracks, clips, gouges. Not much else can go wrong.
Check the crankshast assembly out thoroughly. I don't know if you have a full roller beaingcrank, but if you do, it's easy to see if something is wrong. Your manual will give you side to side clearances on the rod bearings. Rotate the bearings to see if they grind. If the do, try to pull the races off to the side to inspect the rollers. If there is any damage the crank will have to be replaced. Ebay has some every once in a while for a reasonable price, maybe $100 or so. One of the main bearings can be easily replaced, the rest require a press and some expertise. If you don't want a used one, you will need to send the crank out to be repaired. This won't be cheap.
You could also have a probem in the transmission, but I doubt it. Not many moving parts there when the bike is running and in neutral. Inspect it anyway while apart.
Clean everything and note where it came from. The manual will help when putting it back together. There are those on this site that have done this also. It's not rocket science, you can do it too.
If it was mine, that's what I would do. The number one reason is - why not? If the crank is bad (worst case scenerio) you wont get much for it anyway, so why not find out what's wrong. Number two reason - I don't like to purchase used engines. You could get something almost as bad as yours just prior to the big band. Number three - it's too expensive to give to a mechanic - way too expensive. Number four - With all new seals and gaskets - she will be sealed up tigher than a drum. No leaks or weaps anymore. Last - look at all the experience you get on this one.
I ordered a bottom end gasket kit for mine bike (1100) at the local parts house for less than $20 (Cometic). The seals need to be ordered individually - a bit pricey - about $100 through bikebandit. The rest of the parts cost will be replacing broken or worn stuff. Oh, need a top end gasket kit too.
Here's an edit that I forgot to include. If I was going to buy a used motor to replace it. I would still split the cases to see what the problem was. Then when I got the used motor, I'd split them and rebuild the used motor. You will never have a better time to do this chore.
Give it a shot, what have you got to loose.
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