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How do you know if your R/R is bad?

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    How do you know if your R/R is bad?

    I've just did the stator tests and verified that the stator is still working but not as well as it should and just wanting to know if i should replace the R/R also

    #2
    If you have output from the stator, let's say over 60VAC between all three legs and the Ohm readings between the legs are less than 2 and infinite to ground, the stator is probably of moderate health(mine put out 63VAC and lasted about a year before it finally gave up the ghost).
    If you are getting less than the resting voltage of your battery across the posts with it running OR greater than 14.8VDC at 5000rpm the r/r has seen better days and needs to be replaced.

    If you followed the tests from the stator pages in the garage section it will answer all your questions.

    RMStator has a deal for both the stator and r/r if you order them together and you will get it in three days.

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      #3
      Follow this.
      1983 GS 1100E w/ 1230 kit, .340 lift Web Cams, Ape heavy duty valve springs, 83 1100 head with 1.5mm oversized SS intake valves, 1150 crank, Vance and Hines 1150 SuperHub, Star Racing high volume oil pump gears, 36mm carebs Dynojet stage 3 jet kit, Posplayr's SSPB, Progressive rear shocks and fork springs, Dyna 2000, Dynatek green coils and Vance & Hines 4-1 exhaust.
      1985 GS1150ES stock with 85 Red E bodywork.

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        #4
        The stator AC voltage across all 3 legs 51 volts this means I have a weak stator or is OK

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          #5
          Originally posted by Black 550 L View Post
          The stator AC voltage across all 3 legs 51 volts this means I have a weak stator or is OK
          This is too low a voltage. What revs did you test at. If at 5000 then the stator is toast.
          Last edited by Guest; 08-13-2008, 11:17 PM.

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            #6
            All tests must pass, it is also dependant on your battery, it has to be charged before you do the AC test, and you need to have it turning in the 5000rpm range.

            51VAC is low and given a charged battery and 5000rpm test run, replace the stator

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              #7
              I tested it at 4000 RPMS with a charged battery so I should get a new stator

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                #8
                Originally posted by Black 550 L View Post
                I tested it at 4000 RPMS with a charged battery so I should get a new stator
                What DC volts do you have at the battery at 4000? My brand new electrosport stator only puts out about 55 AC and I've been riding on it for 6 months. If you're getting high 13, (like 13.8) or 14 at the battery you're fine I wouldn't mess with it unless you just want to. If you're getting 51 from the stator and you have nothing at the battery (not charging at all ) you R/R is bad.

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                  #9
                  Sure the new ones put out a lower voltage, but the original equipment puts out a higher voltage. So he needs to test it at 5000rpm, if the voltage is not up to at least 70VAC that stator is on its way out. It may finish the season, but if you are going to be fixing it, and it isn't working worth ****e now, might as well do it up right.

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                    #10
                    DC volts at the battery is 12.6 at idle and 12.1 at 4000 so the r/r and stator are bad?

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                      #11
                      Since that is what you seem to want to hear, yes, both the stator and the r/r are bad. Replace them. Call RMStator and you can have new ones on Monday.
                      Seriously, if you did the tests as the stator pages stated, you would get the answers you are after.
                      It can be daunting, but there are a lot of resources here, and if you want to do the proper tests as directed, you can find out just about anything you need.
                      Have fun working on your bike.

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                        #12
                        The stator is a little low. Did you try grounding the R/R to the negative terminal on the battery? Do this and then check the Voltage on the battery.
                        1983 GS 1100E w/ 1230 kit, .340 lift Web Cams, Ape heavy duty valve springs, 83 1100 head with 1.5mm oversized SS intake valves, 1150 crank, Vance and Hines 1150 SuperHub, Star Racing high volume oil pump gears, 36mm carebs Dynojet stage 3 jet kit, Posplayr's SSPB, Progressive rear shocks and fork springs, Dyna 2000, Dynatek green coils and Vance & Hines 4-1 exhaust.
                        1985 GS1150ES stock with 85 Red E bodywork.

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                          #13
                          Also, the last two R/R's I had go bad, bothof them got very hot. Run the bike and feel the thing. If it is quite hot, it is probably bad.

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