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Battery Question

  • Thread starter Thread starter DarkOnyx
  • Start date Start date
D

DarkOnyx

Guest
Quick question for you all...

My headlights do not turn on with my bike's electrical system. As such, my dad connected a workaround that works by a switch. I think this to be unrelated to my main problem which seems to be that my battery is having trouble holding a charge. I checked it today and it seems to be low on electrolyte in it's cells. I filled it with distilled water and charged it now. I think if I am correct, I had to refill the electrolyte less than two months ago.

Is my battery toast?

Thanks for any help.
 
I ran it just now with a volt meter on the battery while it was running and it said 12.1 volts. Later 12.0.... it seems to be losing a charge. 3 things are passing through my mind.

Bad alternator and it's not charging?

Bad Battery and it cannot accept a charge for any length of time?

Bad circuitry and although my dad added a manual switch for the headlights, the normal circuit is incomplete and thus bypasses the alternator?

What do you think?
 
It's difficult to tell at this moment if the two are related. I would recommend looking at the r/r or the stator. Follow the troubleshooting guide and recommendations for both of these.

The headlight not working is secondary to these. Get a wiring diagram to check the headlight circuit for both continuity and not shorting to ground.

Some have modified their headlamp circuit to run off a relay. This will help with the other two issues. Search this forum or is it performance mods? Some have included the wiring diagrams for the relays. As you have a questionable circuit, know might be the right time to do this mod.
 
why not pull the battery and let it sit overnight and then test again with volt meter, if its low then the battery is loast. easiest way to finmd out if the basttery is good or if you have a draw somewhere
 
Looks like you answered your own question, If your battery voltage is only 12 or 12.1 volts with engine running, there is a problem with the charging system. Should be appx. 12.5 + at idle & appx. 13.5 at 3000rpm.
 
I'd agree that you have a problem with your charging system and likely a bad battery.

The charging system might not be serious and may be corrected by running the direct ground from the R/R to the battery negative terminal. I was having the same 12 volt symptom as you and the mod fixed it for me. Try that first before getting too deep into the Stator papers (but by all means read them).

Take the battery in to your local auto store for testing but i suspect you have a problem with one or more dead cells.

Keep us informed of what you find.

Cheers & good luck,
Spyug.
 
Wow, that's a lot of great information. It'll take me some time to sort through it.

Thanks everyone for the advice!
 
I started the bike and put a volt meter on it and had my brother rev the engine. Sure enough, the charging system works and the reading increased with the RPMS, dramatically at 3000 rpms or so.

I talked to some bikers I know at work and it looks like the battery is just hosed. I think I'll spend a few more bucks next time and get one that's worth a darn.

Thanks again for the advice all.
 
Hi Mr. DarkOnyx,

Out of curiosity, what was the voltage at idle? What was the voltage at 4000 rpm? Was it in line with The Stator Paper numbers?


Thank you for your indulgence,

BassCliff
 
you need a good battery before you can accurately test your charging system
also, if you have a wire from the stator connected directly to the headlight circuit your voltage readings will depend on the headlight being on or off
 
BassCliff said:
Hi Mr. DarkOnyx,

Out of curiosity, what was the voltage at idle? What was the voltage at 4000 rpm? Was it in line with The Stator Paper numbers?


Thank you for your indulgence,

BassCliff
Click to expand...

Definitely not in line with the Stator Paper number sir. It's full charge voltage without the engine being turned on was like 11.8, idling at maybe between 11.7 and 11.8, minor engine rev was around 11.9-12.0 volts and at 3000 rpms around 12.5 I think. I didn't take the exact numbers down, but it is charging. The battery isn't holding a full charge even after being completely charged. Worse, it seems to require frequent charging and addition of distilled water.

I think that this 30 dollar Advance Auto Parts special... has seen it's day.... RIP

I'll have to get a better battery if I don't intend to have to charge it once a week.
 
As Psy mentions, you need a good battery to get an accurate picture on your charging so that should be your priority.

Doing the R/r to battery negative lead is easy and good insurance so do that too.

Corroded connectors and bad grounds are also a leading cause of the electric issues so, as time permits, clean up all connections....from stem to stern.

One area that is often overlooked and can cause all kinds of weird symptoms are the connections and switches inside the hand controls, especially the start buttons and kill switches. Open them up, shoot liberally with contact cleaner and make sure all metal to metal contacts are shiney.

Keep us informed of how it goes for you.

Good luck with it.
Spyug
 
Dollars to donuts you have some poor grounds. If your charging system wasnt working your voltage while running would be less than you report. Clean your battery posts, clean the ground from the battery to engine both ends of the cable and the ground mounting on the motor itself. Run the black wire from your R/R direct to the battery ground and the red wire direct to the plus side of the battery even if you have to add wire to do it. Check your water level disconect both wires from the battery and charge it. Reconnect it after charging start it up and take your readings again. If you get over 13 volts at 5k the charging is fine. Also with these batteries you have to charge them at 2 amps or less never more... If your charger doesnt charge at that rate and you have been charging it at 10 amps its probably toast. Good Luck
p.s. I recomend using steel wool instead of sand paper as it tends to scratch and takes off the coating on the connectors.
 
Last edited:
Yeah, it looks like I have some work to do. I am glad though that the charging system isn't completely shot though, as it does provide some voltage to the battery. I'll take the 40 dollar fix to the 250 dollar one. I'll likely take it to the mechanic next month for a complete look at the electrical system. I was just hoping to get a couple more rides in this month and to get it inspected. :cool:

If I don't get out on two wheels every now and again... I get cranky. Riding the GS has saved a lot of money on psychiatrists.

Incidentally, which batteries do you guys use?
 
lucabond said:
Dollars to donuts you have some poor grounds. If your charging system wasnt working your voltage while running would be less than you report. Clean your battery posts, clean the ground from the battery to engine both ends of the cable and the ground mounting on the motor itself. Run the black wire from your R/R direct to the battery ground and the red wire direct to the plus side of the battery even if you have to add wire to do it. Check your water level disconect both wires from the battery and charge it. Reconnect it after charging start it up and take your readings again. If you get over 13 volts at 5k the charging is fine. Also with these batteries you have to charge them at 2 amps or less never more... If your charger doesnt charge at that rate and you have been charging it at 10 amps its probably toast. Good Luck
p.s. I recomend using steel wool instead of sand paper as it tends to scratch and takes off the coating on the connectors.
Click to expand...

Yeah, that's a good point. I've had some problems with corrosion once before. And let's face it, it is a 26 year old bike.
 
luca is the man. he talked me through my problem, and it was the connections after all. i am glad i learned how to check the stator and all, but more glad that just connecting the black r/r lead to the neg battery post, and cleaning the connections, got me going.

i too started with a bike that had to be charged almost daily to start. now, i have already misplaced where my tender is.
 
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