Front Brake Line Configuration

[Headphase]

o.k. , I'm replacing the front brake hoses on this gs650. (twin disk)
I have braided lines just the right length and could replace like for like, but....

I could do away with that middle junction thingy, and just run 2 lines from the bars, one to each caliper, eliminating a junction thingy and making it easier (in my mind anyway) to bleed up etc.

or

I could run one line to the right caliper, and run a second line from it over to the left caliper, over the front mudguard behind the forks. I like the look of this, but am not keen on the idea of bleeding brake lines that go up then down again, although I am sure it is easy enough.

Soooo , braided hose options..

1. Stock replacement.
2. Replace with 2 lines , 1 per caliper
3. One long line, and 1 crossover

Anyone got any thoughts. I reckon 2 is the easiest all round.

[Nessism]

Flip a coin, I don’t think it really matters.

I'm running three piece stainless-Teflon lines because that's the way the bike came from Suzuki. Two piece lines are reputed to be easier to bleed but I’ve never had trouble with three piece. The looping over LH to RH is pretty uncommon but I understand that works as well.

[hikermikem]

I replaced mine with 2 lines, running one each from the MC to each front caliper. Works very well, & I liked getting rid of unneeded stuff like that splitter block & the 3rd line.

I am however considering the cross-over approach on a current brake line replacement. If you go that route, let us know how it worked for you.

Mike

[salty_monk]

Hehe... you can tell I had dinner with these two earlier this week... steal all my best ideas

Seriously though I stole it from 80GS1000 he has that setup you list as #3 on his GSXR front end, it's a stock upgrade kit from one of the better known line manufacturers from memory.

I went with 2 lines direct to calipers but if I'd known about the "loop over" link to join the calipers I think I would have gone that way... Just for looks. I'm even thinking about buying a couple of short pieces of line (I have goodridge so can simply unscrew the banjos & line is pretty cheap at that length) & giving it a go next time I put an order into Z1......

Dan

[J_C]

I went with the two piece just because that was easiest for me. 3 piece = more hardware = more expensive. For me that was a big deal because they were out of the regular fittings and only had SS, for mucho bucks.

Speaking of dinner... Dan, Aimee and I still owe the two of you a dinner out (plus some cash and two calipers ). Let's catch up in the next few weeks

[Headphase]

ok, as a wee experiment, I'll do the third way. It's easy enough to change round anyway.

Won't get it done till the weekend, but I'll try and document it a bit, see how it goes.

[Ed Vrolijk]

Option 3 is IMHO the way to go. Bleeding isn't harder than with a regular setup, just takes a bit longer. Do the righthand calliper first, than the lefthand calliper. when it looks good, do the righthand again, because now you have enough pressure to pump out the smallest air bubbles.
succes,
Ed

[hikermikem]

You're right Dan, you did give me something to think about!

Ya know... I just may buy 2 shorter lines for the loop over part, & use the two long lines (currently connected from the MC to the calipers on one bike) to make up two sets of SS lines for two bikes!

Kinda, almost a two-fer.

Since they're Speigler lines, it will be cheaper to just buy a couple of shorter ones - the good part is their banjo fittings can be rotated at bit to eliminate twisting.

[knotzilla]

I did the 3 line line setup. There wasn't much difference in price between 2 or 3 line setup. Having shorter bars, a front hydraulic brake switch and lever guards, by using 1 line made it less cluttered. Plus where the 3 lines met at the junction fitting provided a secure mounting point instead of using nylon ties, Ted

[Mark M]

Option 3 is IMHO the way to go. Bleeding isn't harder than with a regular setup, just takes a bit longer. Do the righthand calliper first, than the lefthand calliper. when it looks good, do the righthand again, because now you have enough pressure to pump out the smallest air bubbles.
succes,
Ed

IMO the 2 line setup is the best and definitely bleeds the easiest. Not that any of the 3 choices are usually that hard, though. I have option #3 stock on my GSXR1K and will be changing it to a 2 line setup when I get around to it later this fall.

This is about like oil or tires, very close to religion for some people... They all work fine if you install them properly and keep them bled with fresh fluid. YMMV, as always.

Mark

[Ed Vrolijk]

[quote=

This is about like oil or tires, very close to religion for some people... They all work fine if you install them properly and keep them bled with fresh fluid. YMMV, as always.

Mark[/quote]

I agree. the reason i would go for option 3 is because i like my handlebars to be as uncluttered as possible, that's all
Ed

[Headphase]

job done.

Bled up easy. Nice and firm at the bars, can't test it on the road though, as there are too many bits of the bike still lying around

I used the double banjo bolt from the old central tpiece section of the brakes as the connector to the right hand caliper, photo below.

I stuck the old tpiece back up in place, so I won't lose it With a couple of old bolts in it to keep the crud out.

I have never seen such bad brake fluid, or such a nasty brake fluid reservoir, took me forever just to get the rubber seal off the lid. Crystallized brake fluid everywhere.

Oh, and as an aside, went along to the local shop to get some braided lines cut, and lo and behold, goodridge are doing precut packs now. All you do is screw on the banjo connector from their selection and away you go. It's top stuff, and is clear plastic coated. Picture below. Bit dearer, but proper stainless connectors and all, not chrome.

[Headphase]

and ignore any damp patches on the ground, they are car crud, nothing to do with my bikes.
Thanks