clutch adjustment on 1980 gs1100e

[JUSS10]

i was told when i got my gs1100e yesterday that it has a barnett clutch in it and right now the clutch seems way out of adjustment. it feels good at the lever but when you drop in gear it lurches forward like the clutch isn't opening enough. i currently don't have a manual and was wondering if anyone can tell me how to adjust the clutch. i tried messing with the adjustment but it didn't seem to help. any input would be great! thanks

[chef1366]

Barnett springs or complete Barnett fibers and steels? These are known as "grabby" clutches. Either get used to it or go back to stock.

[don_gibb6512]

Chef's right on. The Barnett clutch was meant for the drag strip. Do you know if the clutch springs were replaced? It sucks having to try to figure out what a PO did or didn't do but most of us have been down that road and know how it feels so hang in there. You do know that both ends of the clutch cable have adjustments on it, right? Try adjusting a bit of both and seeing if that helps but it sounds like maybe you need a bit stronger set of springs.

[JUSS10]

yeah i started by adjusting at the lever then maxed that out. next i moved the the crank case. i need to try and turn it out some more and see what happens. i have no clue on what the PO did. just said it had a barnett clutch in it. whether that's just plates, or springs, or a the whole basket i have no clue. I'll keep working on it.

[JUSS10]

well no matter how much i adjusted the clutch it would barely release. so i bought a used original that i am going to replace this barnett one with. can anyone let me know any torque specs i may encounter while doing this? any any tips would be great. thanks

[bonanzadave]

any any tips would be great

Here are the guys that helped me through it....

http://www.thegsresources.com/_forum/showthread.php?t=125593

Dont be surprised to find the Barnett thin plates have F'ed up your clutch basket.

[chef1366]

Careful with used. Do you have a digital caliper? Check the fibers, steels and springs before installing. I made the mistake of installing "drag bike springs as advertized on Ebay" but were just wasted stock springs.
Get a manual or ask for specs.

[chef1366]

Fibers standard 2.9mm to 3.1mm limit 2.6mm
spring 38.5
steel standard 1.94 to 2.06

[JUSS10]

i do have a digi calipers. thanks for the specs that will be great. we'll see what it looks like when i get. it will be interesting to see when i pull the side cover off. does the cover just come off? i've never done engine work on a bike that uses a lever to actuate the clutch. everything I've done uses push rods.

[chef1366]

It's so easy you'll be mad at yourself for overthinking it.
Just take off the lever the cable goes into (note the postion it's in take a pic) and take off the cover.
Get a gasket. I have a few extra if you want it.

[JUSS10]

do you have the torque specs on the clutch springs and the nut that holds the basket to the shaft?

[chef1366]

do you have the torque specs on the clutch springs and the nut that holds the basket to the shaft?

I wouldn't remove the clutch hub but I would get an APE clutch hub nut. I probably put around 75 pounds on the hub nut and JUST snug on the clutch springs.

[don_gibb6512]

do you have the torque specs on the clutch springs and the nut that holds the basket to the shaft?

I can look those up tonight and send them to you.

Chef, what's the necessity of an Ape clutch hub nut? How is the Ape any different than the OEM ?

Thanks.

[JUSS10]

i to am curious about this APE clutch nut. i read in other posts that everyone says to get one but whats the reason?

[bonanzadave]

SUZUKI HEAVY DUTY CLUTCH HUB NUT

CLUTCH HUB NUT
The factory Suzuki hub nuts are soft, allowing the threads to deform and come loose. This allows the hub assembly to wobble. The APE nuts are CNC machined from heat treated chrome moly steel. End of problem.
SHN1150 Suzuki GS1100 / GS1150 $29.95