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    #16
    Originally posted by chef1366 View Post
    I actually did not know that the zinc levels have changed over the years.
    Yup, zinc levels are way down. I used to be one of those "motor oil is motor oil" people, but the new auto oil formulations are pretty skimpy on the zinc which makes this topic pertinent.

    The 8V GS engines are easy on their camshafts but the 16V'ers are not - the cams and rockers wear a fair bit.

    There is an internet forum specific to engine oil... http://www.bobistheoilguy.com/forums/ubbthreads.php

    Lots of good info their for those interested.
    Ed

    To measure is to know.

    Mikuni O-ring Kits For Sale...https://www.thegsresources.com/_foru...ts#post1703182

    Top Newbie Mistakes thread...http://www.thegsresources.com/_forum...d.php?t=171846

    Carb rebuild tutorial...https://gsarchive.bwringer.com/mtsac...d_Tutorial.pdf

    KZ750E Rebuild Thread...http://www.thegsresources.com/_forum...0-Resurrection

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      #17
      Originally posted by chuckycheese View Post
      By the way...Suzuki recommends automotive 10-40.
      Yeah, but when they recommended it, oil was a lot different than it is now.

      Has anybody looked at a new Suzuki to see what they recommend today?

      .
      sigpic
      mine: 2000 Honda GoldWing GL1500SE and 1980 GS850G'K' "Junior"
      hers: 1982 GS850GL - "Angel" and 1969 Suzuki T250 Scrambler
      #1 son: 1986 Yamaha Venture Royale 1300 and 1982 GS650GL "Rat Bagger"
      #2 son: 1980 GS1000G
      Family Portrait
      Siblings and Spouses
      Mom's first ride
      Want a copy of my valve adjust spreadsheet for your 2-valve per cylinder engine? Send me an e-mail request (not a PM)
      (Click on my username in the upper-left corner for e-mail info.)

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        #18
        Whatever brand you use DO NOT use ANY oil with the "energy conserving" lable on it. Those oils contain friction modifiers that can harm wet clutches.
        A rule of thumb is stay away from any oil that is 30 wt., i.e. 10W3-, 5W30, etc.
        10W40, 5W40, 20W50 is okay.

        Some of the newer Guzzis actually recommend 10W60 (yes 60)!

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          #19
          I'm using Castrol 10W-40 (Auto) synthetic and haven't had any problems (at least not yet )

          Also the 3 quart w/o filter change should be a guideline. If you dump all 3 quarts in before checking the oil level you may overfill it and have to drain some out.

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            #20
            Originally posted by Nessism View Post
            I'm using Rotella synthetic also, good stuff - diesel engine oil.

            No worry with mixing oils; dino and synthetic, different brands, whatever. Doesn't matter.

            but what if you have like rotella diesel oil in your bike and you wanna run like mobil 1 synthetic or something should you changed the oil and filter too or just drain oil and put the new oil in?

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              #21
              Originally posted by 821100gl View Post
              but what if you have like rotella diesel oil in your bike and you wanna run like mobil 1 synthetic or something should you changed the oil and filter too or just drain oil and put the new oil in?
              Run it till it's done and then try the Synthetic. Don't waste good oil.
              1983 GS 1100E w/ 1230 kit, .340 lift Web Cams, Ape heavy duty valve springs, 83 1100 head with 1.5mm oversized SS intake valves, 1150 crank, Vance and Hines 1150 SuperHub, Star Racing high volume oil pump gears, 36mm carebs Dynojet stage 3 jet kit, Posplayr's SSPB, Progressive rear shocks and fork springs, Dyna 2000, Dynatek green coils and Vance & Hines 4-1 exhaust.
              1985 GS1150ES stock with 85 Red E bodywork.

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                #22
                i am running rotella 15 w 40 the triple protection kind. I havent heard this is recommend for bikes yet.just dont wanna hurt my bike with any harmful addtives

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                  #23
                  Originally posted by 821100gl View Post
                  but what if you have like rotella diesel oil in your bike and you wanna run like mobil 1 synthetic or something should you changed the oil and filter too or just drain oil and put the new oil in?
                  Since you're goinng to add all that expensive synthethic oil, change the filter too. Although it really doesn't matter. Why run the Mobil 1? Just change to Rotella 5W40 Synthetic. You'll save some bux and have a great oil.

                  But Rotella 15W40 is one of the finest bike oils you can buy. Plus it's so darn reasonable. You'll not really gain much except the 'feeling' you're treating your engine better by going synthetic.

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                    #24
                    Royal purple

                    I just switched to the Royal purple syn oil, has some great specs specially for air cooled engines, little or no clutch drag with either the 10/40 or the 20/50wts.

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