Announcement
Collapse
No announcement yet.
Idle's but bogs here and there...
Collapse
X
-
Johnny K
Idle's but bogs here and there...
It's been weeks that I have been dealing with an idle/bog issue. Today I took the carbs completely apart and just sprayed everything with carb cleaner. I noticed the metal piece between the floats was a tiny bit bent. So I made them all straight and when putting them back together, my float height was high on every one so I just lowered each one to spec. I bought new plugs and put them in. Had each set at 3 turns. It started right up with choke and then turned the choke off shortly because it was going to stall. However when I did that, it actually just idled around 1500rpm. It's been so long since Ive seen it just idle around there. I let it warm up and put each screw at about 2 turns I think. When i revved it at 3 turns, it sounded all boggy so thats why i put them at 2. I didn't touch the boots so im not sure what caused the idle issue. My bike doesnt run perfect, but just taking and putting back together the carbs solved the issue for right now is kind of weird. When I did ride, it is boggy til about 3000rpm. I can't give it full throttle because it just really bogs. It doesnt bog all the time, just with different amounts of throttle. I pulled into the gas station and it started to stall so I quickly turned the idle knob to make it idle. I shut the engine off, filled up and started the bike. I gave little throttle and it was almost stalling, then a good amount of blips and it would idle that way. Afraid of stalling and not being able to start, I clicked in 1st and took off. I thought it was going to stall but I basically throttled all the way and the bike took off screaming til about 9000rpm with NO hesitation! I let off, then throttled back again but with serious bogs til about 4-5000rpm and then my bike screamed again with no hesitation and just put a grin on my face. Then stopped at a stop light about a 1/2 mile down the road. Went to downshift, bogged and then stalled. Tried starting and it wouldn't. I'm thinking im SOL so I walked my bike to an empty parking lot off the street about 20 feet ahead. Looked under my tank to see if any wires were disconnected or anything. Then found my vacumm line had just popped off because I dont have a clamp on there. So I slipped it back on, and tried starting it. Wouldn't start. Let it sit for a min and tried it again. Started right up and it idle and I quickly put it in first and rode back to my house. The idle is a little picky only because I think I havent got the idle screws to synch and then am going to go to my mechanics and have it vacuumed synched. Thanks again guys.Tags: None
-
Forum LongTimerGSResource Superstar
Past Site Supporter
Super Site Supporter- Mar 2006
- 35619
- Torrance, CA
When you pulled the carbs did you pull out the pilot jets and look through them with a light to make sure they are open? The holes are killer small and spray cleaner will not get them open most of the time. Another thing is your carb boots, the o-rings underneath are typically flat and hard which causes leaks. My opinion is to do a FULL carb clean out, replace the o-rings both inside the carbs and on the carb boots, and then do a vacuum sync when done. Using half way methods typically leads to hit or miss results and even if the bike seems to run better, the old o-rings will start leaking at some point so why not just reset the clock with new parts?
Sorry to scold. Good luck.Ed
To measure is to know.
Mikuni O-ring Kits For Sale...https://www.thegsresources.com/_foru...ts#post1703182
Top Newbie Mistakes thread...http://www.thegsresources.com/_forum...d.php?t=171846
Carb rebuild tutorial...https://gsarchive.bwringer.com/mtsac...d_Tutorial.pdf
KZ750E Rebuild Thread...http://www.thegsresources.com/_forum...0-Resurrection
-
Pearson
I agree with Nessism. I think most of your troubles will be over if you slowly go through your carbs from top to bottom, clean everything including all jets, then carefully do a bench sync until you can get a vacuum sync done.
Comment
-
Johnny K
This is the strange part. For a month or so, my bike hasn't idled below 2000rpm without it slowly stalling. I then bought new intake boots, o-rings, and replace all the o-rings for my carbs. There are no pin holes in the diaphragms. When I replaced all of that, it still had an idle issue. Sprayed WD-40 and no idle change on the boots. Then a couple of days ago, I just felt like taking them apart, carb spraying and then using compressed air to all the carbs again and had the mixture screws 3 turns out. I didn't touch the boots or o-rings, just the carbs. I put a new set of plugs in as well. It started right up and began to idle around 1500rpm within a min. I just cant understand why the idle issue has been resolved? But there is a good amount of bogging when just revving. No backfire through the carbs or exhaust. A couple of weeks ago, I did a bench synch. I did the best I could with a paperclip. I just need it to idle and not bog in order to drive it my mechanics where he can vacuum synch it for no charge. Just wondering what causes bogging when revved in neutral and more so when in gear??
Comment
Comment