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    What did I miss?

    After a fairly long evening of troubleshooting and cleaning and meter readings, I'm out of ideas and strength.

    82 GS850G, 41K, stock everything. OEM exhaust, airbox, carbs, NGK plugs cleaned, regapped and reinstalled. No known issues until right before my valve shim replacement, when it started to start rough. Usually my little silver bullet starts right up.

    I was able to get it started, and it would run rough for a while, then clean up and purr after about 20 minutes. Now, it won't start at all.

    I've pulled the carbs, they were spotless, as I suspected. I still cleaned up the jets and bowls and sprayed them down again. Hoses were inspected, and found to be clear and free of cracks. My boots are stellar, suprisingly so, actually. Airfilter and airbox were relatively clean, and I did remove the filter and clean it. I remembered to switch to prime on my petcock, and after about 30 minutes, I could only get the carbs to sneeze once. UGH.

    Electrical. I suspect this is an electrical problem. My coils show around 5 ohms with no power to them. Stator shows levels under 2 ohms, thankfully. I've replaced a stator before and they just suck. I dropped the plugs next to the cylinder for a spark check. I certainly THOUGHT that the spark would have been MUCH more than I got, and more consistant. Seemed weak to me. I did 1 and 4, then 2 and 3, to mate up right with a coil check. Just seemed week, no real spark against the cylinder. I was expecting lightning results, I guess. I had to squint to see the sparks.

    Battery. Tested it to 11.82 VDC after a few crank attempts, so close to right. It drops appropriately during crank. Resumes its' near 12VDC range after cranks. I checked fluids, and found a couple of low chambers. Refillled, on the charger right now.

    So I guess I have to do a R/R check, for the correct ohm or VAC measurements....

    I found that I must have the relay mod on my bike from the PO. the little osram relay that I've seen referenced with 87a.... Yeah, it's there, and a fuse holder with a 15 amp fuse in it that is good. Checked all the wiring, and all my fuses, all good in appearance. (still need to mieter for continuity, at least.) Dunno if this relay could be bad, or how to check it. I am capable, just not sure what to look for. This would definitely be an issue, from what I can tell.

    I do have electronic ignition, and asked the stupid question about how to adjust it not too long ago, and am not certain as to what to look for in that area. I did have to work the crank while replacing my valve shims. Personally, I think that is coincidental, as the valve job was easy, and I did notice a big improvement in idle and throttle response initially.

    So what have I missed? Other than the RR checks, what's left to check? I just put high octane in it this morning, as it would get me up to the station and back, but not all the way to work. It misses like an electrical miss. Not a bogging or starving issue like dirty or misaligned carbs would do. The idle will change wildly if I get it running, and will do this for quite some time, with or without choke. (some mornings it doesn't need much choke)

    I dunno. I still have two months of good riding left, and my wallet says to keep riding. I've obviously missed something here, perhaps one of the learned folks here can offer an idea or two. Or three.

    Thank goodness for beer. Hooray beer.

    **update** checked battery charge..... 12.5 vdc. It's charging well.

    loudest143
    Last edited by Guest; 08-25-2008, 09:20 PM.

    #2
    A fully charged battery should be close to 12.6 volts. I would charge it and try again. At sub 12 and the starter drawing high amperage it is likely you aren't getting enough voltage to the ignition system.

    Comment


      #3
      whats your voltages at the coils? check all the connectss between the battery and the coils including the relay tabs and the connections to the coils. could be corrosion just cutting down your voltage, giving you weak spark.

      Comment


        #4
        Originally posted by loudest143 View Post
        I've pulled the carbs, they were spotless, as I suspected. I still cleaned up the jets and bowls and sprayed them down again. ...

        I just put high octane in it this morning, ...

        The idle will change wildly if I get it running, and will do this for quite some time, with or without choke. (some mornings it doesn't need much choke)
        OK, several things to address here.

        You have pulled the 'spotless' carbs and sprayed them down (again).
        Have you ever completely disassembled them and dipped them properly and replaced all the o-rings?

        You put high octane in it. WHY?
        You say that it has 'stock everything', including airbox, exhaust and, I presume cams and pistons. You will have to see one of my other 'rants' about high octane fuel for details, but the short story is ... YOU DON'T NEED IT. In fact, your bike will run worse and have less power unless you make other changes to compensate for the shortcomings of 'premium' fuel.

        It starts easily, sometimes with little or no choke.
        It might be running a bit rich. Rich is better than lean, but it's still not right.

        The idle changes wildly after you get it running (presumably after it warms up?).
        Classic symptom of an air leak, most probably the o-rings in the intake boots.


        My suggestions:
        Order a set of o-rings for your carbs and intake boots from Cycle O-rings. Get the stainless screws, too. Get a can of Berryman's Carb Cleaner Dip. Download a copy of the CV Carb Rebuild Paper. Remove the carbs, take them completely apart, dip them one at a time, overnight, then put them together with the new o-rings, pre-set the idle mixture screws. Do a bench sync. Replace the intake boot o-rings. Install the carbs, warm up the bike, fine-tune the mixture screws, do a vacuum sync, double-check the mixture screws, double-check the vacuum sync. Put your tools away, enjoy your bike.

        If you would like help with some of this, I will be home in a couple of weeks and can come over to visit you.

        .
        sigpic
        mine: 2000 Honda GoldWing GL1500SE and 1980 GS850G'K' "Junior"
        hers: 1982 GS850GL - "Angel" and 1969 Suzuki T250 Scrambler
        #1 son: 1986 Yamaha Venture Royale 1300 and 1982 GS650GL "Rat Bagger"
        #2 son: 1980 GS1000G
        Family Portrait
        Siblings and Spouses
        Mom's first ride
        Want a copy of my valve adjust spreadsheet for your 2-valve per cylinder engine? Send me an e-mail request (not a PM)
        (Click on my username in the upper-left corner for e-mail info.)

        Comment


          #5
          While Steve's suggestion to freshen up the carbs is a good one, I'm leaning toward your electrical system as the problem based on your comments that you can barely see a spark. The plug caps sometimes go bad but it's unlikely all four went bad equally.

          Think I'd try seudar's recommendation and check voltage at the coils. Something is keeping you from getting the fat blue spark the bike should.
          Ed

          To measure is to know.

          Mikuni O-ring Kits For Sale...https://www.thegsresources.com/_foru...ts#post1703182

          Top Newbie Mistakes thread...http://www.thegsresources.com/_forum...d.php?t=171846

          Carb rebuild tutorial...https://gsarchive.bwringer.com/mtsac...d_Tutorial.pdf

          KZ750E Rebuild Thread...http://www.thegsresources.com/_forum...0-Resurrection

          Comment


            #6
            I simply tried to start her this morning after a full night of trickle charge. 13.56VDC at the battery before I started to crank it over. 12.05VDC after a good cranking session..... It backfires out of the exhaust, as I'm expecting there was fuel that made it through due to no/low spark issues.

            I tested the stator again, as I was not certain of my measurements this morning before a full cup of coffee. They are in spec, right around 1.5ohms. They my meter had trouble with the measurement, and I'm going to have to replace these bullet connections with some spades that my employer will gladly donate.

            I looked again at the spark plugs out of the motor, and the spark, weak as it is, is yellow in color at best. No blue color to be seen.

            I've still got to get my coil voltage measurements, and I will try that after work. I had the tank in the way this morning, as I put it back last night feeling optimistic of a fresh battery might at least get it to start. Glass half full, right? BTW, what should my voltage be at the coil? Key switch on, voltage should be about 12VDC yes? Lots of measurements clouding the brain at the moment, and I'm not in front of my manual.

            Something I noticed last evening that I think I forgot to mention. I didn't think it was important, as I was sure it was battery related..... The turn signals did stop flashing after a while. (I thought this would be a simple test to see how low my battery was.) I was right, my battery was too low to start the bike, as well as flash the flasher unit.

            Thanks to all who have offered advice.

            loudest143

            Comment


              #7
              Originally posted by loudest143 View Post
              BTW, what should my voltage be at the coil? Key switch on, voltage should be about 12VDC yes?
              if you have the coil relay mod done, yes, it should be 12 or so volts.

              Comment


                #8
                TY, I was thinking that I had read that in another thread. Every so often the search feature spits out something very useful.

                loudest143

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