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Valve shims
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amontyg
Valve shims
I am currently working on doing the valves for my 82 gs550l for the first time. The clearances are very tight to say the least. Anyway, on a lot of the shims marked with an x would be the ideal size but i don't really see those for sale in any of the online fiches. Can you buy these or do you have to just come across them?Tags: None
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TheCafeKid
Originally posted by amontyg View PostI am currently working on doing the valves for my 82 gs550l for the first time. The clearances are very tight to say the least. Anyway, on a lot of the shims marked with an x would be the ideal size but i don't really see those for sale in any of the online fiches. Can you buy these or do you have to just come across them?
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Headphase
whats the coveted (x) then, cos I was doing the shims on a 650 last night and one had the markings 270(x), it looked blue compared to the other ones as though it was made of a different metal or something.
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TheCafeKid
Originally posted by Headphase View Postwhats the coveted (x) then, cos I was doing the shims on a 650 last night and one had the markings 270(x), it looked blue compared to the other ones as though it was made of a different metal or something.
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Headphase
awesome, I will treasure it always then
I'll measure it tomorrow, see what it really is, just out of nosiness.
Thanks
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Suzuki_Don
They are what we call "FAT" shims and are usually 0.02mm or 0.03mm over the size stated on the shim. Never take for granted the size stamped on the shim either. They could have been ground or rubbed down to a different size to suit a certain application. Always measure with a vernier caliper for a true reading.
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Half sizes.............1983 GS 1100E w/ 1230 kit, .340 lift Web Cams, Ape heavy duty valve springs, 83 1100 head with 1.5mm oversized SS intake valves, 1150 crank, Vance and Hines 1150 SuperHub, Star Racing high volume oil pump gears, 36mm carebs Dynojet stage 3 jet kit, Posplayr's SSPB, Progressive rear shocks and fork springs, Dyna 2000, Dynatek green coils and Vance & Hines 4-1 exhaust.
1985 GS1150ES stock with 85 Red E bodywork.
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rudy
Originally posted by Suzuki_Don View PostThey are what we call "FAT" shims and are usually 0.02mm or 0.03mm over the size stated on the shim. Never take for granted the size stamped on the shim either. They could have been ground or rubbed down to a different size to suit a certain application. Always measure with a vernier caliper for a true reading.
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Originally posted by rudy View PostOne of my roommates told me once that a vernier isn't very accurate for measuring something that small. That kinda struck me as strange, as I was actually measuring my shims when he said it. He's a machinist, so I took his word for it, but continued using my vernier and trusting it. Any thoughts on this? Also, what would be more accurate?1983 GS 1100E w/ 1230 kit, .340 lift Web Cams, Ape heavy duty valve springs, 83 1100 head with 1.5mm oversized SS intake valves, 1150 crank, Vance and Hines 1150 SuperHub, Star Racing high volume oil pump gears, 36mm carebs Dynojet stage 3 jet kit, Posplayr's SSPB, Progressive rear shocks and fork springs, Dyna 2000, Dynatek green coils and Vance & Hines 4-1 exhaust.
1985 GS1150ES stock with 85 Red E bodywork.
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Suzuki_Don
I've actually found that using a micrometer over different areas of the shim gives slightly differing readings and using the vernier gives one averaged reading which suffices for my applications.
As Bill says what about "THAT SMALL". I use a vernier on my feeler gauges before doing jobs like measuring ring side clearance and the vernier measues exactly what the reading on the feeler gauge is. Is 0.003" small.
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JJ
>Tell your roommate to go back to what he's doing & keep using your vernier! >Ray.
I have worked as a journeyman machinist in the aerospace industry.... as a CNC programmer... and have a BSME from GA Tech... As a general rule, I would NEVER trust more than a semi-close tolerance (+/- .005") measurement to calipers.
I will qualify that by saying that a seasoned machinist could probably be accurate within +/- .002". The general layman could probably not measure repeatedly any closer than +/- .005" with a pair of calipers.
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rudy
Originally posted by JJ View Post>Tell your roommate to go back to what he's doing & keep using your vernier! >Ray.
I have worked as a journeyman machinist in the aerospace industry.... as a CNC programmer... and have a BSME from GA Tech... As a general rule, I would NEVER trust more than a semi-close tolerance (+/- .005") measurement to calipers.
I will qualify that by saying that a seasoned machinist could probably be accurate within +/- .002". The general layman could probably not measure repeatedly any closer than +/- .005" with a pair of calipers.
While I have to agree with you for most applications like measuring parts and so on, would it really matter that much with valve shims? They fit pretty dang well in the jaws, and I always measure stuff two or three times to make sure...... then usually forget what the measurement was a second later, and have to do it again.
As with all moving parts, there has to be some kind of lash and tolerances for movement in those gears and the stuff that moves the dial on the vernier, no matter how well it's made.
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TheCafeKid
Originally posted by rudy View PostWhile I have to agree with you for most applications like measuring parts and so on, would it really matter that much with valve shims? They fit pretty dang well in the jaws, and I always measure stuff two or three times to make sure...... then usually forget what the measurement was a second later, and have to do it again.
As with all moving parts, there has to be some kind of lash and tolerances for movement in those gears and the stuff that moves the dial on the vernier, no matter how well it's made.
Now, I will say that sometimes, when I measure a shim as I was taught, I rotate it, getting readings from a few different degrees of the shim, now and then I will get, say 2.70 most of the way around it and in one spot i get 2.72. Oh well....in she goes...
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I would think that .15 would start compromising the lift on the cam.1983 GS 1100E w/ 1230 kit, .340 lift Web Cams, Ape heavy duty valve springs, 83 1100 head with 1.5mm oversized SS intake valves, 1150 crank, Vance and Hines 1150 SuperHub, Star Racing high volume oil pump gears, 36mm carebs Dynojet stage 3 jet kit, Posplayr's SSPB, Progressive rear shocks and fork springs, Dyna 2000, Dynatek green coils and Vance & Hines 4-1 exhaust.
1985 GS1150ES stock with 85 Red E bodywork.
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