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Lowspeed handlebar wobble ?

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    Lowspeed handlebar wobble ?

    I have a 80`GS850, handles great however at low speeds -+ 5mph, there is a noticeable loose feeling or wobble in the handlebars. I have tightened the bolts on the tree and tire press is 41psi dunlap 404 tire.I can handle it,(I`ve been riding for 40+ years) I just don`t like it.is there anything I can do? Thanks for your help !!---Ed

    #2
    You need new steering stem bearings.

    They're maybe $35 a set at Dennis Kirk. Kind of a bear to change, though.
    1983 GS850G, Cosmos Blue.
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      #3
      I did mine a few weeks ago and thought my wobble was gone for good but it seems to slowly be coming back. Are the bearings still "seating" and do I just need tighten that goofy nut up when I notice it and someday it will stop coming back?

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        #4
        41 psi? wowzers

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          #5
          Originally posted by catbed View Post
          41 psi? wowzers
          thats what i was thinking... but "chef" also claims thats a good pressure

          anyhow, first check your existing steering stem bearings by pulling/pushing the front wheel (while the wheel is off the ground)
          it may be a simple fix like tightening the top adjustment nut on the steering stem
          GS850GT

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            #6
            If you tighten the steering stem nut to snug up the steering head be sure to do it with the front wheel off the ground and move the bars from full lock to full lock to check for smooth movement.

            When I tried to just tighten the nut I found that my bearings and races were notchy as hell. Now that I have gone through the ordeal of replacing the steering bearings all is much better.

            Chris

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              #7
              Loose steering head bearings. When correct there should be a SLIGHT amount of drag.

              When adjusting be sure to loosen the lower triple clamp bolts because as the stem nut tightens it raises the fork tube in the clamps.

              Comment


                #8
                After you have done all you can to the steering bearings and find that you still have problems, check your swing arm bearings.
                Sometimes a wobble is caused by looseness at the other end of the bike.

                .
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                  #9
                  +1 on what Steve said. Could also be wheel bearings, but my $ is on steering head. Especially if there is a violent wobble on decelleration at 40 or so.

                  One more thing. Only severely loose stem bearings can be detected by pushing/pulling on the front wheel.

                  You will know if they are too tight if the bike wants to wander when you try to go straight. It doesn't want to respond to input on the bars, then it finally goes in the direction you want, but.....it goes too far and is stubborn to go back.
                  If this happens back off the adjuster a tad and ride again.

                  Remember to loosen the lower triple clamp bolts each time to allow the forks to move to prevent binding.

                  Comment


                    #10
                    Originally posted by Zook View Post
                    Remember to loosen the lower triple clamp bolts each time to allow the forks to move to prevent binding.
                    Ive been battling a high speed wobble for years and have tried everything.... except that !! Could you elaborate on the exact sequence you use to align the front end / forks and tighten the stem bearings / nut....
                    82 1100 EZ (red)

                    "You co-opting words of KV only thickens the scent of your BS. A thief and a putter-on of airs most foul. " JEEPRUSTY

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                      #11
                      Don't these bikes come with ball bearings in the steering heads like most bikes always have?

                      Using tapered roller bearings is a major improvement for just a few dollars more.

                      And as I recall, you want to loosen all the fork clamp bolts, then tighten the steeering head until you feel a slight drag when you turn the bars from side to side, and then back off the nut just a tad (at most a quarter turn). Then tighten up the fork clamp (triple tree) bolts.

                      This should leave your front end nicely set up.

                      Comment


                        #12
                        Originally posted by psyguy View Post
                        thats what i was thinking... but "chef" also claims thats a good pressure

                        anyhow, first check your existing steering stem bearings by pulling/pushing the front wheel (while the wheel is off the ground)
                        it may be a simple fix like tightening the top adjustment nut on the steering stem
                        I liked 40psi in my Dunlop GT501s. I'm running Hi Maxx tires now and I run 32psi.
                        It was the tire not me.
                        1983 GS 1100E w/ 1230 kit, .340 lift Web Cams, Ape heavy duty valve springs, 83 1100 head with 1.5mm oversized SS intake valves, 1150 crank, Vance and Hines 1150 SuperHub, Star Racing high volume oil pump gears, 36mm carebs Dynojet stage 3 jet kit, Posplayr's SSPB, Progressive rear shocks and fork springs, Dyna 2000, Dynatek green coils and Vance & Hines 4-1 exhaust.
                        1985 GS1150ES stock with 85 Red E bodywork.

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                          #13
                          Originally posted by highmileage View Post
                          Don't these bikes come with ball bearings in the steering heads like most bikes always have?

                          Using tapered roller bearings is a major improvement for just a few dollars more.

                          And as I recall, you want to loosen all the fork clamp bolts, then tighten the steeering head until you feel a slight drag when you turn the bars from side to side, and then back off the nut just a tad (at most a quarter turn). Then tighten up the fork clamp (triple tree) bolts.

                          This should leave your front end nicely set up.
                          They went away from ball type bearings in the stems, at least in the 750s i know for sure, in the 80 and up models. 77-79 750s used a ball type, although the 78-79 could be swapped to tappered with no effort. The 77 stem requires you to machine the stem to accept the bearing seating properly. Or, you just use a set of 78 forks and/or trees...heh

                          Comment


                            #14
                            That's cool, 'cuz the ball bearing end up egg shaped. I know that back in the seventies (which may be the last time I did this!), You bought aftermarket rollerbearings that were fairly expensive, and all they were was standard Timkin bearings that had been machined down to the diameter of the steering stem.

                            Anyway, you want to loosen all the upper triple clamp bolts with the front wheel off the ground (obviously you put something under the motor to support the bike, such as a block of wood on a floor jack) and what you are tightening is the spanner nut below the upper triple clamp.

                            Of course, anyone who is contemplating doing this should read a manual and not just a posting to a message board!
                            Last edited by Guest; 08-31-2008, 12:17 PM.

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                              #15
                              Thanks guys

                              I can now see that I`m not the only one that this bothers, however I checked the stem bearings and found NO play also the swing arm bushings. I have been working on food processing machinery for 35yrs., replacing bearings on meatsaws,grinders,slicers and mixers and can tell when bearings are bad.(Hobart) I rode the bike across the parking lot looking around the vetter fairing the only wobble I saw was between the rim and the road. I guess I will learn to live with it even if I don`t like it. The press. states on the tire 41lb. . If I hit small bumps or run in gravel it just don`t feel right. Thanks guys I took it all in and will keep checking.

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