How do you remove broken fuel screw tip?

[tas850g]

I found a broken fuel screw tip in my #1 carb body. PO must have broken the tip off and inserted a new screw b/c when i removed the #1 fuel screw it did not have a broken tip. I compared it to 2-4 screws. You can not see light through the hole where the tip could protrude into the venturi. I can see light through 2-4 holes. The unfortunate thing is the tip is broken inside the hole and is recessed some. I tried to use a dental pick to pop it out but it did not work.

I have read some threads here and it explains how to pop out a broken tip if it is protruding into the venturi. Do i perform the same procedure by filing/grinding a small fine tip on some type of pick and lightly hit the handle side of the pick trying to pop the broken tip out?

Or should i try boiling the carb body first?? If so what do i boil it in? berryman's carb cleaner that comes in the 1 gallon can?

If this does not work and i make the hole bigger than it is supposed to be how do i know if the hole is too big??

[ryonker]

Found this on a post doing a search.

"Update; spent all afternoon doing a thorough carb cleaning, these things were an absolute mess. (I had only disassembled them last time, and stopped due to the solid 1/32" of muck on everything.)

Apparently those locater tabs are plastic, not brass. They cleaned up and are transparent. There's just enough left over that I can't rotate the slide in the bore once its in, so I won't end up replacing the #4 body.

Also, when I was going through old threads, someone had mentioned something about boiling the carb bodies to clean them up. I thought it was odd at best at the time. But after several hours of scrubbing and getting them 95% clean, and after still having no joy getting the broken pilot screw tip out through solvents, picks, micro drills, and air pressure, I was open to 'odd' ideas. I finished the dip/scrub/clean on everything, and then dried and boiled the carb bodies, bowls, & tops for about two minutes at a steady boil. Cleaned all the remaining residue off, and when I took the warm #3 carb body, and went at it one last time with the pick, the broken tip popped right out! So, I'm good on all bodies now!

I've want to order four new pilot fuel screws because they all are a bit wonky, hopefully to arrive with the jets I ordered last night before the holiday weekend. Is the z1 rebuild kit really the only way to get them? I mean, its a good kit, but I feel like I'd be spending $80 instead of 8-16$..:-?




I should've posted BEFORE pics so you understand why I'm feel good about this, but here are the afters..."

Good luck

[psyguy]

the problem that i see with boiling the carb body is that the seals at the buterfly shaft may not take it well
unless you remove them of course

i would soak the hole with the carb cleaner and use a pick method, from inside the venturi

[Nessism]

Search function is a beautiful thing!

http://www.thegsresources.com/_forum/showthread.php?t=82559

[tas850g]

Nessism,

I've read that thread and was not sure if i could still file a fine tip and still try tapping out the old tip b/c it was recessed down in the tube/hole? As far as boiling, there is a nylon, i think thats what i've read previously, plug in the carb body. Would boiling melt this? what typy of liquid do i boil with?