Chain info - which ones to buy and how to lube them correctly

[Guest]

I just found this - and if it is to be believed, it is exactly what I have been looking for - excellent reading and mucho info on chains, which ones to buy and how to lube them based on solid experience.

This ought to be especially of interest to those of you who stated in my previous thread on this subject that you are using DID O-ring chains.

And I believe they are probably correct when they say that 7 out of 10 lube their chain incorrectly...

http://www.quality-cycle.com/truth_about_motorcycle_chains.htm

[Nessism]

Pretty good read but a little overly opinionated in my opinion.

I bought a couple of RX XSO X-ring chains for my 550's and they seems like high quality pieces. Also, picked up some PJ1 Blue Label lube which the article said is the best...so far I'm batting .100. Cleaned off the factory lube and hit the chain with the PJ1 which doesn't fling off very much. Good stuff.

Best chain price I found was at maw.com. Shipping is not cheap but overall it was a reasonable deal.

[lurch12_2000]

That chain in the article looks pretty dry and rusted...way overdue for lubing. Looks like they're getting as much spray lube on the tire as the chain itself. I use an old toothbrush dipped in oil to apply along the sides as I slowly spin the rear tire. Less errant spray and still enough to soak down through the side. (less cavities too)

[highmileage]

The last chain that I bought was a Tsubaki Sigma and to be honest, I was not thrilled with it - it seemed to require adjustment more often than I expected.

Yes, they throw out a lot of opinions. But they seem to know what they are talking about - they don't rate that Tsubaki very highly, although it was highly recommended by the folks I got it from (this was some eight years ago, I'm not sure if the X-ring chains even existed back then).

I am currently looking to replace the chain and sprockets on my CBX and I was thinking of buying an RK XVW (or whatever the heck the correct alphabet soup is). But after reading this, I see no reason to pay 50% more for a chain that will likely last about 10% longer. Sounds like diminishing returns to me. So I am probably going to get an RK XSO and Sunstar sprockets. I already use the blue can PJ1.

Anyone ever even heard of the 'Stealth' sprockets they promote on this site?

Now to shop for who offers a good price on this chain and sprockets. Think I'll try MAW first...

I use an old toothbrush dipped in oil to apply along the sides as I slowly spin the rear tire. Less errant spray and still enough to soak down through the side. (less cavities too)

Do you also floss the teeth on your sprockets?

Actually, I like your method of using motor oil and a toothbrush. Although I suspect that if done carefully, it can be done as they propose without getting it all over the tire.

[80GS1000]

I've been pleased with www.sprocketcenter.com for price and service on chains.

[tkent02]

Do any of the modern chain lubes ooze out slowly so you can get it all on the chain instead of splattering out fast all over the wheel?
I would prefer non O ring chains If I could find a decent lube.

[highmileage]

If you read that site that I linked to above, they say exactly that - that there is no benefit to using an 'o' riing chain to a non 'o' ring although the 'o' ring chain will cost more - either way you just have to lube it routinely.

But they say (and it makes sense) that an x-ring chain is far superior...

They also say that what you should look for and compare is tensile strength, that's all that matters. Again, this makes so much more sense than believing when the manufacturer says that this chain is 'recommended for bikes up to 750cc' for instance...

They also insist that the best lube is PJ1 w/ the blue label.

[Nessism]

Non O-ring chain needs lube every 200 miles according to the article. I'd rather have an O-ring chain...

[Griffin]

I bought an RK XSO 530 X Ring chain for my GS700ES in 2003. I also put on new Parts Unlimited OEM Style steel sprockets. Four years and 16,000 miles later, the chain has been adjusted for stretching once, is nowhere near it's stretch limit, and still looks brand new. I clean it with a kerosene-soaked rag every 500 miles or so (more often if I ride on wet roads), then lightly spray on some WD-40 to get out any dirt that's in the crevices. I then lightly wipe it down with spray-on white lithium grease.

When I first got this chain, I emailed RK to find out what was the coating on it when I opened the package, and how they recommended caring for the chain. Here's the reply:

They come from the factory with that thick sticky grease to help them resist rusting on the ocean voyage and in storage. Leave it on and just add a layer of your favorite o-ring chain lube.

To clean the chain while it's on the bike - apply a good coat of WD-40 and let it soak in. Then wipe the chain down with a rag or soft bristle brush. After you get most of the crud off, put on another coat of lube.

To really clean the chain - take it off the bike and let it soak overnight in a pan of kerosene. Wipe most of the crud off. Hang it by one end and spray well with lube. Wipe most of it off and put the chain back on the bike.

When you lube an o-ring chain, you are not trying to get lube past the o-rings. There is already a lifetime supply of lube sealed in behind the o-rings. What you're doing by lubing the chain is keeping the metal from rusting and the rubber o-rings from drying out.

Leslie Sowden
Director of Sales
FTM Enterprises Inc.

[Agemax]

makes me laugh at any body who cant be assed to spend 5 minutes a week just to give their chain a quick wipe over and a squirt with some lube. dont matter what chain it is or what lube you got, a clean oiled chain will see you through a lot more miles than a dirty dry chain!

[Nessism]

makes me laugh at any body who cant be assed to spend 5 minutes a week just to give their chain a quick wipe over and a squirt with some lube. dont matter what chain it is or what lube you got, a clean oiled chain will see you through a lot more miles than a dirty dry chain!

It's not the time, it's the mess the chain lube makes all over the bike. O-ring chains don't need as much attention thus my comment. Of course, shaft drive is even better if you don't like mess...that's what I own now.

[almarconi]

It's not the time, it's the mess the chain lube makes all over the bike.

I've been using the PJ1 blue label and it's really not that messy. If you apply it as described in the article, there is very little mess. If I'm not paying attention, I may spray a little on the floor instead of the chain.

After I ride, I just put the bike on the centerstand, apply the chain lube while I turn the rear wheel. Takes about 10 minutes and I'm done.

[Agemax]

It's not the time, it's the mess the chain lube makes all over the bike. O-ring chains don't need as much attention thus my comment. Of course, shaft drive is even better if you don't like mess...that's what I own now.

ok so how often do you check the oil level in your drive shaft gearboxes? isnt that the same chore but less often! but you still need to do it.....

[lurch12_2000]

ok so how often do you check the oil level in your drive shaft gearboxes? isnt that the same chore but less often! but you still need to do it.....

Unless it's leaking then I'd probably wouldn't need to check for thousands of miles, which is a lot longer interval than the chain duties. I know, I have both an 1100ES and 1100G.

[highmileage]

ok so how often do you check the oil level in your drive shaft gearboxes? isnt that the same chore but less often! but you still need to do it.....

I have several bikes, two older Gold Wings, a Kaw Concours, a GS 1000GL, and a couple of others that I don't ride - all shafties. I've never checked the fluid level in the differential more than once on any of them because for the level to go down, I'd see some visible sign of leakage. This isn't like engine oil that can burn up, 90w doesn't just vaporize, for the level to go down at all it has to leak out and make a mess that would be obvious.

I've had other shafties (including a 1200 Gold Wing that I put over 300K miles on and two V-45 Sabres that I put a total of over 165K miles on between the two) and again, never looked at the differential fluid level and never changed it either.

I know that they recommend that you change it, but when was the last time you heard of someone changing the fluid in the differential on a rear wheel drive car? When was the last time you heard of anyone having troubles with their car or truck's rear end regardless of the number of miles on it unless someone's been in there screwing around with it (such as by changing the gearing) unless there was a visible leak of the fluid because of a failed gasket?

On a bike, you don't even have to crawl underneath to see visible signs of leakage like on a four wheel, rear wheel drive vehicle!

Yes, I love shafties. But I've always loved CBXes, especially the later ones, and have had several (including a '79 back when they were first introduced). And since I bought myself a couple of '82's for my birthday this year (one that I'm riding, the other is not running yet), I'm back to dealing with chains and sprockets on at least one of my bikes. (That Tsubaki Sigma that I mentioned earlier was what I put on my last '82 CBX...)

There's no question that chain drive bikes are a bit quicker and handle a bit better, but the price is farting around with cleaning, lubing, and occasionally adjusting the chain.

This is the one that I'm riding (drove my pickup to Maine to get it about a month ago).


This is the non-running project bike that I got in Norfolk a week or two later (pic taken on the Chesapeake Bay Bridge Tunnel on the way home).