Clutch Problems

[mwperry]

Hi everyone,

I am new to the site, so let me take this opportunity to introduce myself if i may. I am 25, I live in the southeast of england, I'm a structural Engineer and my name is Martin, nice to meet you all. I have just passed my motorcycle test (as have many people in the UK at this time, the new regulations come in to play in october), and have been given a 1981 GS450t by a very generous friend. I rode MotoX when i was younger and played about with 2 stroke engines a bit but have no experience with bigger engines, therefore i am a novice at the moment, and am in the process of buying a house, so can't afford to spend much on the bike.
The GS i have been given (an import i think as they didnt sell this model in the UK to the best of my knowledge) hasnt been used in 6 years and needs a bit of a clean up, although it has been garaged so the rust is mainly surface. I put it on the centre stand today and started it after a couple of tries, but as soon as i put it into gear the rear wheel turned and the clutch didnt seam to have any effect, i tried the rear brake and it stalled. I checked the cable at both ends (lever and engine) and it looks like it has been fully adjusted out (a lot of thread showing). Before i take it to a garage and spend money any advice on what checks and adjustments to try would be welcomed.

As i said i have only just got the bike so any other checks you think i should make before i take it for a ride just let me know.

Thanks all.

Martin.

[bonanzadave]

Martin,

Welcome !

I looked at your bikes clutch parts diagram on Bikebandit. It looks pretty standard with a series of friction discs and plates that have probably stuck together after sitting idle for so long. Consider yourself very lucky that the bike started. I would get some fresh gas and oil and and then ride it to free up that sticky clutch. Dont go very far for safety sake cause there is a lot more to go over on an old bike that has sat for so long.

[boathead]

i just adjusted my clutch cable....this is what i did.

1. loosen at the handlebar the lock nut fully.

2. then, at the transmission, back off the locknut, and tighten, or loosen, as needed, the little screw which holds the clutch lever at the top of the clutch case.

3. play with this little screw until you have about 2 mm of play at the clutch lever on the handlebar. at this point....

4. tighten the locknut at the end of the cable at the transmission. and then tighten the locknut at the handlebar lever. according to the manual, fine tune adjustments can then take place at the handlebar locknut.

don't know if this is what you are looking for, but it is about all i know how to do!

[mwperry]

Thanks for the quick reply Dave,

Is there anything i can do without riding the bike? Its in a garage at the moment, and i understand what you mean about taking it for a blast, the only trouble is that as it has no tax and MOT (ie not legal for the road in the UK) and in the area i live i dont have any access for private roads, so if i take it out for a ride it is very likely i will get caught and lose my license. Can a similar process be carried out if i put it on the centre stand and get my wife to rev it throught the gears if i can somehow put some resistance on the rear wheel? The tires dont seem to have dried too much but i expect they will need replacing before its legal, so i could possibly hold a piece of timber against it to cause resistance, but i suppose it wouldnt be the same as riding it for the lumps and bumps in the road. I dont know, im just trying to think of a legal way out. Thanks.

[mwperry]

I'll have a play tomorrow, thanks for the tips boathead.
If anyone knows of any major checks i should make before i take it on the road (i dont think i will be until the clutch is sorted anyway) they would be welcomed.
Thanks again for the quick replies guys, this site is great.

[76FJ55]

You can try to free it while on the center stand but the tear wheel may not have enough inertial to over come the stuck clutch. The procedure for freein a stuck clutch is as follows. Best done while riding. Find a nice flat onen area (parking lots work well if there is one close by) Start the bike in neutral and warm it up so the engine is running smoothly. then get a running start and jump on the bikeand shift it in to gear once stable shift to 2nd or 3rd depending on how much room you have and how much speed your comfortable with (at this stage you will need to hit the kill switch ifg you need yo stop before the clutch frees). While iding at a comfortable pace squeeze in the clutch lever and roll on and off the throttle repeatedly untill the engine revs freely. You can try this on the center stand if you like and it may work. to do so I would shift it up to its highest gear (highest torque load on the cluth), with chutch in, bring the RPMs up to maybe 3K to 4K and rapidly get on and off the throttle, (REMEMBER IF IT COMES OFF THE CENTERSTAND OR THE BACK WHEEL COMES INTO COMTACT WITH THE GROUND VERY BAD THINGS WILL HAPPEN).

[mwperry]

Thanks for all of ur help guys, the clutch is now free.
As i dont have any open spaces to ride illegally i just put it on the centre stand and ran it up to 3rd and pumped the clutch, then touched the back brake and it was free!

Cheers all

[hampshirehog]

Hi Martin. Which part of the wet and cold SE are you? I'm near Farnham. The 450T as you rightly point out was never sold over here officially and I've never seen one. It's 'sporting' brother, the 450E was sold here but even that is a rare bike - the store I worked in only sold one single 450 if my memory serves me correctly.

From what I remember, it was remarkably efficient on fuel for a respectable performance.