Delaying valve adjustments

[cyberdork]

Well my topend is starting to really make a lot of noise, and at some times kick. Since I'm not the smartest mechanic I've delayed putting off adjustments and want to until the winter so I really get some downtime to take my time and do it correctly. I have the manual but am still troubled. I get lag in the midrange also but no starting issues or stalling. Could I run into some major trouble if not taken care of?

[KiwiGS]

Mate check the valves!
It is not that hard and the people here will help.
Rebuilding a top end is harder and can cost a sh!tload of cash
Check the timing chain and tensioner while you are at it.
Good luck.
Cheers

[cyberdork]

I've read different articles about replacing shims??? My manual says nothing about this so I guess I'll ignore that. Also I'm confused of when to check the valves. The guide says only check the valves with cams being in position A OR B. Position A is the lobe being vertical and B being horizontal. I guess it might make more sense when I rip the cover off. Is it safe to drive for awhile atleast?

[Nessism]

Your bike doesn't have shims, it has threaded adjusters. The manual should describe what position to put the cams in so don't fret about that.

Regarding damaging the engine or not, the damage occurs when the valves tighten up and the clearance goes away. When this happens the valve train is quiet, not noisy. Then the valves are tight they never close thus they can burn.

There is no way for us to guess as to the condition of your valves, thus we can't tell you the risk of continuing to ride the bike. My opinion is to take care of the bike, don't flog it. Treat it well and it will last for a long time.

[Steve]

I've read different articles about replacing shims??? My manual says nothing about this so I guess I'll ignore that. Also I'm confused of when to check the valves. The guide says only check the valves with cams being in position A OR B. Position A is the lobe being vertical and B being horizontal. I guess it might make more sense when I rip the cover off. Is it safe to drive for awhile atleast?

What manual do you have?
I have the Haynes, Clymer and factory manuals for my 850s, and they all have detailed procedures how to adjust the valves.

The procedure for getting the valve cover off might be just a bit different from one model to another, but they are basically all the same. There is a good pictorial guide on BassCliff's site that will help explain the manual's procedure. Yes, the cams should be in particular positions, but it's not that hard to do.

How safe is it to drive? That goes along with how often you should check the valves. The manuals all say to check them every 4,000 miles. Can you guarantee that they have been checked within that amount of mileage? If not, it's time to do it.

By the way, if you are hearing noises from the top end, it's likely not the valves. They tend to tighten up with age/use, which would make them more silent. Any noise is more likely the cam chain that is not being tensioned properly. I would suggest verifying proper operation of the cam chain tensioner, too. The bad part of that is that you might have to remove the carbs to remove the tensioner. You might be able to see if the tensioner is moving properly without removing the carbs, but if you have to remove it to fix anything about it, you will have to remove the carbs.

One more suggestion:
Where are you? Adding your location to your personal info will allow us to see if one of us is close enough to help you in person. If you feel you have a need for privacy, you can leave your location as ambiguous as mine. You will note that my location is only listed a 'southwest oHIo', which covers a LOT of area (but so do I).

.

[cyberdork]

I have the suzuki service manual. I live in Maryland (Carroll County). I've owned the bike for maybe 2000 miles. My boss gave it to me, she originally bought it as a project bike but didn't have the time so she was going to trash it. The last time it was ran was 2003 and we have no idea about the previous owner, so I couldn't tell you the last time the valves were adjusted. I absolutely fear taking the carbs off, if need be I'll probally wait until winter.

[Dogma]

I have the suzuki service manual. I live in Maryland (Carroll County). I've owned the bike for maybe 2000 miles. My boss gave it to me, she originally bought it as a project bike but didn't have the time so she was going to trash it. The last time it was ran was 2003 and we have no idea about the previous owner, so I couldn't tell you the last time the valves were adjusted. I absolutely fear taking the carbs off, if need be I'll probally wait until winter.

As a relatively new wrencher, I can tell you that checking valve clearance is a great first project. After that, fear of more complex projects is greatly diminished. Removing the carbs really isn't that bad if you don't have one the of the smaller bikes where you can't get the air box out. And if it really is the cam chain tensioner causing all that noise, you need to get in there and deal with it before you end up with a really big project.

Steve, is there a way to check cam chain tensioner action while the cam cover is off during a valve clearance check?

[catbed]

so its been sitting for close to 5 years and you havent cleaned the carbs? clean the carbs and adjust the valves while you're waiting for the o-rings to arrive.

[Billy Ricks]

If you decide to run valve clearances yourself be sure to place a rag in the cam chain tunnel to keep from dropping anything into the crankcase. It's not terribly hard to check clearances and the threaded adjusters are much easier to deal with than shims.

[cyberdork]

It never gave me carb trouble and still hasn't, so I haven't felt the need to take them off.

[cyberdork]

As a relatively new wrencher, I can tell you that checking valve clearance is a great first project. After that, fear of more complex projects is greatly diminished. Removing the carbs really isn't that bad if you don't have one the of the smaller bikes where you can't get the air box out. And if it really is the cam chain tensioner causing all that noise, you need to get in there and deal with it before you end up with a really big project.

Steve, is there a way to check cam chain tensioner action while the cam cover is off during a valve clearance check?

Yes please!

[loungeguy69]

Don't be afraid of taking bits apart. It's the best way to learn and you'll realize it isn't as difficult as you'd imagine. If you follow the manual and keep track of what you've taken off (order and location) you'll be fine. Think about getting a Haynes of Clymer to back up the factory manual.

Valve adjustments with the threaded adjusters are fiddly but relatively straight forward. You can do it in a day easily. Take a whole weekend if you need to. Just make sure you have a new valve cover gasket and tools ready before you start.

[Steve]

Steve, is there a way to check cam chain tensioner action while the cam cover is off during a valve clearance check?

Actually, you don't need to remove anything to see if the tensioner seems to be working.

On the left side of the tensioner there is a screw and a locknut. Hold the screw in position, loosen the lock nut about half a turn. Now hold the locknut, turn the screw clockwise. It should go about half to a full turn and stop. Take it back out to where it was, rotate the knob on the right side of the tensioner (I forget which way, but I think it's counter-clockwise). When you release the knob, it should spring back into position. Leave the set screw about half a turn out from lightly seated, lock it in place.

Brian Wringer (bwringer) has written up a nice tutorial on how to rebuild the tensioner. There are lots of good pictures in it. There will probably not be a need to remove the tensioner, but his write-up helps explain what I was trying to say above.

.

[Dogma]

Actually, you don't need to remove anything to see if the tensioner seems to be working.

On the left side of the tensioner there is a screw and a locknut. Hold the screw in position, loosen the lock nut about half a turn. Now hold the locknut, turn the screw clockwise. It should go about half to a full turn and stop. Take it back out to where it was, rotate the knob on the right side of the tensioner (I forget which way, but I think it's counter-clockwise). When you release the knob, it should spring back into position. Leave the set screw about half a turn out from lightly seated, lock it in place.

Brian Wringer (bwringer) has written up a nice tutorial on how to rebuild the tensioner. There are lots of good pictures in it. There will probably not be a need to remove the tensioner, but his write-up helps explain what I was trying to say above.

.

So, on a failed tensioner, the chain will push the plunger out, and the knob will return only partially to where it was before?

[loungeguy69]

So, on a failed tensioner, the chain will push the plunger out, and the knob will return only partially to where it was before?

The plunger in the tensioner should move freely. If in doubt just remove it (two bolts) and visually check while repeating the test procedure.

If the crank has been rotated during the test the tension on the cam chain could be different, thus affecting the distance of the plunger return. Either way just take it off and look at it.