GS850G Cam chain noise

[popejoy_slim]

Hello, thanks, right on, and many thanks again to all the fantastic info!
I've got an '82 GS850g with near 28,000. Hasn't been run in 8 yrs., stored in a garage in Iowa on the side stand. Did a full-dip carb job and new K&N. IT RUNS!!!

Using a screwdriver as a poor-man's mechanic's stethoscope, I'm getting noise from the valve train. To me, it sounds like the chain. If you think of the sound of a dry bearing running in its race, or an old metal-wheel roller skate.
I've checked the tensioner, hit it with the WD-40, and it slaps back into place with ease. Is this noise good, bad, or ugly?

[Nessism]

Hard to judge a noise over the internet. GS engines are not the quietest but there shouldn't be any significant knocking either. You might want to try to record a video clip and link it here so we can listen. Regarding the cam chain tensioner, you need to remove it and make sure the pushrod moves smoothly. Sometimes the rod binds up and doesn't snap back the way it should. You should also do a valve adjustment so you can inspect all the parts carefully.

Good luck.

[Steve]

There is also the possibility that it is the cam chain idler that is between the cams.
Not sure how many other models have this feature, but the 850 definitely does.

.

[TheCafeKid]

There is also the possibility that it is the cam chain idler that is between the cams.
Not sure how many other models have this feature, but the 850 definitely does.

.

8v 750s do as well.

[psyguy]

i vote "sticky" cam chain tensioner
or a very low oil level

[psyguy]

There is also the possibility that it is the cam chain idler that is between the cams.
Not sure how many other models have this feature, but the 850 definitely does.

.

8V - 1000 and 1100 dont have it (not a sprocket anyway)

[psyguy]

8v 750s do as well.

sure they do... same head as on the 850s!

[BassCliff]

Greetings and Salutations!

Hi Mr. popejoy_slim,

Feel free to visit my website (link below) for lots of 850G lovin'. Here is your mega-welcome!

Let it be known that on this day you are cordially and formally welcomed to the GSR Forum as a Junior Member in good standing with all the rights and privileges thereof. Further let it be known that your good standing can be improved with pictures (not you, your bike)!

Perhaps you've already seen these, but I like to remind all the new members. In addition to the carb rebuild series, I recommend visiting the In The Garage section via the GSR Homepage and check out the Stator Papers. There's also a lot of great information in the Old Q&A section. I have some documentation on my little BikeCliff website to help get you familiar with doing routine maintenance tasks (note that it is 850G-specific but many tasks are common to all GS bikes). Other "user contributed" informational sites include those of Mr. bwringer, Mr. tfb and Mr. robertbarr. And if your bike uses shims for valve adjustments, send an email to Mr. Steve requesting a copy of his Excel spreadsheet that helps you keep track of clearances, shim sizes and other service work.

These are some edited quotes from one of our dear beloved gurus, Mr. bwringer, with ideas on basic needs (depending on initial condition), parts, and accessories.

***********Quoted from Mr. bwringer************
Every GS850 [and most other models] has (or had) a set of well-known issues that MUST be addressed before you have a solid baseline for further troubleshooting. It's a vintage bike, and it's quite common (as in, every single GS850 I have had contact with) that there are multiple problems that have crept up and slowly gotten worse over the years. It's not like a newer vehicle, where there's generally one problem at a time.

These common issues are:

1. Intake O-rings (install NEW OEM or Viton only - common nitrile O-rings will quickly deteriorate from heat)
2. Intake Boots (install NEW -- these cannot be repaired)
3. Valve clearances (more important than most people think)
4. Carb/airbox boots
5. Airbox sealing
6. Air filter sealing
7. Petcock (install a NEW one)
8. On '79 models, install new points or Dyna electronic ignition (or at least verify that the old points are working correctly)
9. On all models, it's fairly common to have problems with the spark plug caps. These are $3 or $4 each, and often worth replacing if you're keeping the stock coils/wires.
10. Stock exhaust with NO leaks or holes -- good seals at the head and at the junctions underneath.

Carburetor maintenance:

Replace the intake boot o-rings, and possibly the intake boots. Here's the procedure:

http://bwringer.com/gs/intakeorings.html

Here's an overview of what happens with this particular problem:

http://cycleorings.com/intake.html

You'll also want to examine the boots between the carbs and the airbox. There's a good chance these are OK, but check them over.
And finally, if things still aren't exactly right, you'll want to order a set of o-rings for BS carbs from the GS owner's best friend, Robert Barr:

http://cycleorings.com

Once you receive these rare rings of delight, then you'll want to thoroughly clean and rebuild your carburetors. Here are step-by-step instructions that make this simple:

http://thegsresources.com/gs_carbrebuild.htm

OEM Parts/Online Fiches:

I would definitely double and triple the recommendations to use Cycle Recycle II and Z1 Enterprises as much as possible. These guys are priceless resources. Z1 tends to have slightly better prices, CRC2 has a wider range of goodies available. If you're near Indy and can bring in an old part to match, CRC2 has a vast inventory of used parts.
http://denniskirk.com - Put in your bike model and see what they have.
http://oldbikebarn.com - seems to be slowly regaining a decent reputation, but it's still caveat emptor. They don't have anything you can't get elsewhere at a better price anyway.
http://www.babbittsonline.com/ - Decent parts prices. Spendy shipping. Don't give you part numbers at all. Useful cross-reference if you obtain a part number elsewhere. Efficient service.
http://bikebandit.com - Fastest. Middlin' prices. Uses their own parts numbering system to obfuscate price comparisons -- can be very confusing for large orders. Cheapest shipping, so total cost usually isn't too bad.
http://flatoutmotorcycles.com - Slow. Cheapest parts prices, crazy shipping costs. Don't expect progress updates or much communication. Real Suzuki part numbers.
http://alpha-sports.com - Exorbitant parts prices. Different type of fiche interface that's quite useful at times, especially with superceded part numbers. Real parts numbers. Shipping cost and speed unknown due to insane, unholy pricing.

Stainless Bolts, Viton o-rings, metric taps, dies, assorted hard-to-find supplies and materials, etc:

http://mcmaster.com - Fast, cheap shipping, good prices. No order minimum, but many items like bolts come in packs of 25 or 50. Excellent resource.
http://motorcycleseatcovers.com - Great quality, perfect fit (on original seat foam), and available for pretty much every bike ever made. Avoid the textured vinyl -- it's perforated.
http://newenough.com - You DO have riding gear, don't you? Great clearances, always outstanding prices and impeccable service.
***************End Quote**********************

Additional parts/info links:

GSR Forum member Mr. duaneage has great used upgraded Honda regulator/rectifiers for our bikes. Send him a PM.
New electrical parts:
http://stores.ebay.com/RMSTATOR or http://www.rmstator.com/

http://www.ricksmotorsportelectrics.com/index.php

http://www.electrosport.com/

For valve cover and breather gaskets, I recommend Real Gaskets (reusable silicon):

http://www.realgaskets.com

Carolina Cycle

http://www.carolinacycle.com

Ron Ayers Motorsports

http://www.ronayers.com

MR Cycles

http://www.mrcycles.com

Moto Grid

http://www.motogrid.com

Salvage/Used

http://www.ricepaddymotorcycles.com

http://www.ozpowersports.com/

If all else fails, try this:

http://www.used-motorcycle-parts.org/

Used bike buying checklists:

http://www.amadirectlink.com/roadride/Riderresc/checklist.asp

http://www.clarity.net/~adam/buying-bike.html

Lots of good info/pictures here:

http://www.suzukicycles.org

http://www.cyclechaos.com/wiki/Motorcycle_Wiki

http://www.bikepics.com
Basic motorcycle maintenance/repair:
http://www.dansmc.com/mc_repaircourse.htm
Online Clymer manuals:
http://search.ebscohost.com/ Click on "Small Engine Repair" then "Motorcycles". User=library, password=library. Note: This link may not work if you are on a school campus.


Thanks for joining us. Keep us informed of your progress. There's lots of good folk with good experience here.


Thank you for your indulgence,

BassCliff
(The unofficial GSR greeter)

Click here to visit BikeCliff's website.

[SqDancerLynn1]

My vote says it is just tipical GS noise. Often a good carb sync helps alot.
Run the motor a 2K RPM if it sounds ok your good to go. 28K miles- has lots of life left in the old girl. My 850 has 45K.
Thats not to say you shouldn't check her over

[bwringer]

I also vote normal GS racket. These are not quiet engines at all.

Doing a good thorough carb sync will eliminate some of the noise, but no matter what, there's always a good bit of mechanical clatter from a GS850.

[popejoy_slim]

thanks for the insight! From this info and what the old guy down the street says, I'm chalking it up to 'the way the thing sounds'. Oil level is on the money(fresh, too). I'm taking it in this week to have the carbs synch'd and have a once over by someone who knows more than me. Oh, and thanks for the heads up on the tensioner. I'll double check it.

thanks again

(it's got 8 valves. I counted.)