Carb Synching Misshap

[KRISTI'SGS550]

Jon, that is what I was trying to do the first time, when it sucked all my fun blue stuff out of my synchronizer. I will read the directions again and be more careful this next time.

I have the manometer apart, cleaned and ready for more liquid. I am just debating what to put in there now. I'm thinking automatic transmission fluid or oil.

Any one with suggestions?

[hikermikem]

Jon, that is what I was trying to do the first time, when it sucked all my fun blue stuff out of my synchronizer. I will read the directions again and be more careful this next time.

I have the manometer apart, cleaned and ready for more liquid. I am just debating what to put in there now. I'm thinking automatic transmission fluid or oil.

Any one with suggestions?

I've used anti-freeze (glycol) in mine. However, these non-mercury Motion-Pro sync'ers really suck - maybe I'll try tranmission fluid next. I do know you have to make sure those little brass restrictors are clean & clear, else it's impossible to get all 4 tubes calibrated...

good luck

[KRISTI'SGS550]

man, these things seem more of a hassle than having carbs that are out of synch. At least those only make the bike run funny. It still ran. Oh well, I will get it taken care of one way or another. I think I will try again tomorrow.

Is anti-freeze ok for the engine if it gets sucked into the cyliders?

Thanks again all,

Cory

[Fishman]

The motionpro website has a pdf showing how to refill those tubes and it does say to be sure to use their blue liquid. That said, I don't know why some other liquid wouldn't work just as well, since the tool is just calibrated to itself . . . no absolute measurements available.

I don't have a set of carbs in front of me or I could tell you which way to turn it for sure. But I think that counterclockwise lowers the slide. You are on the right track to work left to right, that did the best for me. If you have one that is higher than the rest though, you have to bring the adjacent ones closer to it. If it's the non-adjustable #2, opening up #1 and #3 should help even it out.

My gs550t was very high on 1 and 2, would have overflowed if I didn't catch it. I adjusted 3 and 4 incrementally and that reduced the height of 1 and 2. Keep in mind, I am not an expert. I've done one twin (really easy) my 550t, and a friend's Honda 700s. All of them run much much better, but it was a process of trial and error to be sure. Just keep track of what you are doing and you can always return them to the original settings. I doubt you will though, as even some equalization yields much improved running.

If some of the fluid makes it past the restrictors, I think you'll have to refill the tubes again. I have had some problems with bubbles, and the procedure of shaking the tool down like a thermometer doesn't seem to work very well. I just subtracted the bubble's height when synching, don't know if this is right, it just made sense to me.

[KRISTI'SGS550]

The bubbles were my other problem. That is another reason I wanted to put a different liquid in. I thought oil or something else would be heavier and bubble less. What do you think?

Much thanks, as always

Cory