"new" 1981 GS 1000GL (i think...)

[chaotik_mplmnt]

i just got this bike off a buddy of mine, been working on cleaning it up some, waiting for the title and keys to get here in the mail, think it's a 1981 GS1000GL, not sure, could somebody confirm ?

[lucabond]

Take the Vin# and use this site and you should be able to figure out your year. The vin is on the front head tube where the front forks go. Good luck

http://www.suzukicycles.org/_misc/identification.shtml

[twr1776]

I am guessing you have an late in the year 80L. The headlight, front fender, and rear fender are chrome which is correct. The cluster also looks correct for an L model. The rear fender does not look to be in the original mounting posiston and the signal position seems different. The motor appears to have been painted or maybe replaced? I am pretty sure only the 83's had the blacked out motor fins and they did not make a 1000L in 83 ASFIK. I am also not sure how many 80's had the CV type carbs which is why I mentioned the late in the year model. I am not sure when they made the carb switch but I think it was mid year on the 80's. My best guess.

[glenlloyd]

I have a 1981 GS1000GL parts bike that looks similar but there are differences, some of which have been mentioned. My 81 GL has a square lamp and CV carbs. Airbox looks similar but airbox side covers do not.

Definitely check the vin and use the decoder to determine exactly what it is.

Good luck on your new project!

steve a

[TheCafeKid]

AFAIK, there were NO GS's with VM type carbs in 80, at least stateside.
Is that bike a shaftie or a chain drive bike? If its a shaftie, its GL, if its not, its just an L.

[chaotik_mplmnt]

thanks guys, figured it out. 1980 GS850GL I believe.
def. a gear drive, and from the seat and headlight, think its the L gear version. Anyway, just got the keys today, had the title. NAPA tomorrow to get new fluids and MarvelOil; battery is charging currently, i'll pop it in and check the electrical tomorrow when i get out of class. barring any unforseen exception, should be running within the week. goal is to get one good ride in before cold weather hits, and i've still got a decent amount of time.

[BassCliff]

Greetings and Salutations!

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[chaotik_mplmnt]

ok. got the battery charged, bike coughs and turns over, but won't catch. replacing gas and fluids this afternoon...

i really want to get this bike running, what are some things to look for first?

the ignition switch got bypassed entirely i think by the last owner, and now the ignition is just a 3 point kill switch under the seat.

how do i check for spark problems, ie: wires, plugs, etc?

[chaotik_mplmnt]

btw how serious is rust vs. fork seals, and how do i fix it if necessary?

[twr1776]

You can pull the plug attach the wire and put it next to the motor fin to see if you are getting any spark in each cylinder when cranking. A fat blue spark is what you are looking for. Have you checked the petcock filter and verified you are getting fuel? If the bike has sat for a long time your also might want to check the inside of the tank for rust and at least check and clean the petcock filter. If you still have the original petcock I would suggest replacing it anyway with a new OEM replacement unit. They are more expensive than an aftermarket or rebuilding it but most here have not had good luck with the rebuilds in particular. For the fork seals I have read that some have been able to touch the metal up with very light pressure and a very light grit sandpaper but if the pits are too deep in the metal it will not work. The Leak Pruf seals might last better than the OEM for a slightly rougher fork tube if it cleans up but I do not know this for sure.

[chaotik_mplmnt]

just found that the hose from the petcock to the carbs is dryrotten and loose. forks aren't pitted, just spotted. petcock filter is fine, the petcock is missing the toggle switch thingie, but the valve mechanism is still intact, so i can turn it with a microdriver. where would be the best place to start to try and fix the switch override i mentioned?

[chaotik_mplmnt]

i replaced the spark plugs and tried to test them as instructed, but no spark. The engine is turning and occasionally firing but won't catch and run.

[highmileage]

I just saw this thread for the first time. My apologies for the delay because I think I can help you with the ID.

This is a photo of my current GS, an '81 GS 1000 (G)L:



And this is a photo of a similar bike that i had some twenty plus years ago, an '80 GS 1000 (G)L:



Yes, each bike has a few small modifications. But as you can clearly see, but for the aftermarket seat on mine, your bike is much the same as my old '80.

[Dogma]

thanks guys, figured it out. 1980 GS850GL I believe.
def. a gear drive, and from the seat and headlight, think its the L gear version. Anyway, just got the keys today, had the title. NAPA tomorrow to get new fluids and MarvelOil; battery is charging currently, i'll pop it in and check the electrical tomorrow when i get out of class. barring any unforseen exception, should be running within the week. goal is to get one good ride in before cold weather hits, and i've still got a decent amount of time.

That's exactly what I ride. The side covers, handlebars and tank look correct. The headlight brackets and fork lowers should not be black, but seem correct otherwise.

Black motors started in '83, but your clutch cover is not shaped like an '83, it's shaped like my '80. (I just went out and checked my '83 parts bike. The '80 I have memorized.) You need to positively identify your motor so you can get the correct cam cover gasket when (not if) you check your valve shims.

Your airbox is from a later model. The chrome covers should be more rectangular on the 80 T. It might be from a late '80 or '81 X model. I don't know if later covers would fit the '80 airbox.

I think someone decided to paint some things black on a mostly '80 bike.

[SqDancerLynn1]

Good luck with your project. If you find that the forks are too rusty ? I have a set from an 80 GS1000GL should bolt right on and they are from Cal --- NO rust.