front brake light switch

[boathead]

where exactly does it lead and how do i get to it? i got a replacement switch....do i have to take off the headlight and attack it from behind? or do i go through the headlight. thanks folks.

[hikermikem]

Should lead into the headlight bucket - remove the headlight from the front & follow the wires to the two bullet connections...

Good luck

[Baatfam]

Should lead into the headlight bucket - remove the headlight from the front & follow the wires to the two bullet connections...

Good luck

Correct! I just replaced mine....

[boathead]

thanks fellas. i'll either be back to report success, or post yet another help! post.

[Hoges]

It's always easier to rotate the switchblock up and attack it from up top rather than underneath. Your better able to keep it in one piece. Lots of things fall out sometimes when pulling it off from under the bars. Don't ask me how I know this...

[hikermikem]

It's always easier to rotate the switchblock up and attack it from up top rather than underneath. Your better able to keep it in one piece. Lots of things fall out sometimes when pulling it off from under the bars. Don't ask me how I know this...

Now that's a very sensible input... why didn't I think of that!

PS - I've been on my hands & knees more than once looking for that little spring.

Thanks ,

mike

[boathead]

for once, i can report a success on the first try. but i swear, here and now, that if i ever, after looking at the spaghetti in the headlight bucket, have an electrical problem that needs tracing up there....i will give my bike away. that would cause me to drink. heavily.

the little copper leads on the new switch, on the little plate that fits under the lever....they look like mt everest compared to the old one. i guess 26k miles of braking wears them out.

thanks for the help.

[rodm850g]

front brake light switch

Guys,
Mine hadn't worked in about 15-18 years....started on this refreshening of the old boy ...and zip bam boom it started working ....after I played with it for a few minutes...Over the years I knew how it was designed...poorly compared to an actual switch....but I had compensated by using rear brake..enough to engage the light then my real braking with front...to think I got it working after all these years must be a sign....{not that I hadn't tried to get it to work....it wouldn't} Must admit I'm enjoying the job..and its a job for sure....
First thing was to lose the Vetter that was out front...then the Givi Bags and luggage rack.....This one had been in storage for almost 5 years....
Next carbs came off,apart,cleaned thouroughly, reassembled....fresh gas in resivoir and new battery...about 2-3 tries and he fired up.....ran well too....prior to this fresh fluids front mid and rear.....
Since, motor covers are off to the powder coater for fresh coats of clear ..I was going to just buy mufflers for my Jama exhaust system...but the US dist. didn't want to mess with such a small sale..so I found complete system on flea-bay...had been in a closet for a long time...looks to be in realy good shape....broke three exhaust studs...so I have a time-sert kit on the way with extra inserts...may do whole cylinder at the same time since exhaust is off......got my seat recovered and added denser foam to tp portion to get better ride...hopefully.....It has been fun doing this and lots less than another bike to have in the"Old Guys Garage"....
Prolly won't be back on the road til Spring..or a warm winter day down South....OK not trying to hi-jack the thread just got caught in the moment of my GS.....

Rodm850g

[argonsagas]

It's always easier to rotate the switchblock up and attack it from up top rather than underneath. Your better able to keep it in one piece. Lots of things fall out sometimes when pulling it off from under the bars. Don't ask me how I know this...

If you place a clear plastic bag such as you get from a dry cleaner, completely over the bar and all affected components, and then work inside the bag, you seldom lose the small parts.

[Steve]

If you place a clear plastic bag such as you get from a dry cleaner, completely over the bar and all affected components, and then work inside the bag, ...

Just be careful breathing.

.

[Hoges]

Thanks for comments Mike, glad to be able to help out for once!!!

[Steve]

It's always easier to rotate the switchblock up and attack it from up top rather than underneath. Your better able to keep it in one piece. Lots of things fall out sometimes when pulling it off from under the bars. Don't ask me how I know this...

Sorry, I just couldn't resist ... could this be because you are from the land 'down under'?