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Sorry, more valve adjustment questions

  • Thread starter Thread starter Tim
  • Start date Start date
T

Tim

Guest
1979 GS850GN
16,000 Miles

I'm using BassCliff's instructions on how to do the process.
Which I have to say a special thanks to BassCliff.........YOU ROCK !!!

Ok, I've got a couple questions about the valve adjustment process.

1.) If I compress the bucket and pull out the shim , can I remove the shim tool decompressing the valve without putting a shim back in ?
I found a dealer machanic who will trade me for free my shims for the next size that I need. I have three shims that need replaced and would hate to only change one at a time. I'm assuming the answer is yes since there is clearance between the lobe and the shim when spaced correctly. Just to be safe I gotta ask.

2.) Once I'm done with this how often will I have to repeat the procedure ?

3.) Two of my intake valves are too tight. By loosening them will this force me to play with my Carb mixtures and possibly even have to re-sync the carbs ?

4.) Cyclinder #3 exhaust gauged at about .038mm clearance just inside the tolerable range (.030mm). Seeing that it's an exhaust valve should I go ahead and go to the next smaller shim ? All the other valves (excluding 3 that need adjusted) are at .051mm

5.) I can't seem to find Large Tweezers like pictured in BassCliff's PDF picture, is it ok to use needle nose plyers ?

Once again thanks everybody for your help !!! I consider you guys my two wheeled brothers.
 
1) yes buy don't turn the engine while it's out.

2) Every five thousand miles or so, it's in your manual.

3) Yes

4) Probably a good idea, could go either way.

5) Needle nose works fine, go easy.
 
Hi Mr. Tim,

If it's convenient for you to re-sync your cabs after the valve adjustment, that would be optimal. I wouldn't say it's absolutely critical, as long as your carbs are in good shape otherwise and the bike has been running OK. Since this is your first valve check, and if you've never synced your carbs, then sure, get them re-synced when you get a chance. Adjusting the air/fuel mixture screws (VM carbs, right?) should probably happen first, especially if you notice any indication of running lean.

I've adjusted my valves 4 times since I've owned this bike. I helped Mr. rapidray sync the carbs once. Since that first valve adjustment, the valves have always been in spec, never tighter than .04mm, but sometimes a little looser - .09mm, or even .10mm for exhaust valves.

The factory manual (you downloaded it from my site, right?) says to check the valves every 4000 miles. Even though I run mine on the loose end of the spec, it still makes me a little nervous if I don't check them at 5000 miles. I know others here have gone even longer, 6000-8000 miles.

You might find a pair of hemostats to use for pulling the shims. Any large tweezer will do. Small needle nose pliers are just fine.

Don't spin the motor with shims missing. You will score the cam lobes. If you leave some kind of deposit, will your shop give you the three shims you need?

It sounds like you've got a handle on the procedure. Keep up the good work. Keep us informed.

Thank you for your indulgencde,

BassCliff
 
You might offer to leave a deposit for the three shims, take them home and change them, then bring your 'old' ones back to the shop. Since they are nice enough to swap them for you, they might go for the deposit. Who knows? Just by offering, they might think you are sincere and let you take them. Just be sure to leave some contact information.

While you are adjusting your valves and have all this information fresh in your head, toss an e-mail request in my direction and I will send you your very own copy of my Excel spreadsheet that helps you with the calculations to determine what shim size to use and will help you keep track of your shims from one adjustment interval to the next.

Yes, you can use needle-nose pliers, but do NOT use a magnet. Magnetized shims will attract metal shavings and accellerate wear on the cams.

.
 
Thanks Guys this website has been Awesome !!

Thanks Guys this website has been Awesome !!

The Bike has 16,000 on it and this is the first time the valves have been checked. Is there anything else that I might want to check because it's the first valve adjustment ?
 
Tim said:
The Bike has 16,000 on it and this is the first time the valves have been checked. Is there anything else that I might want to check because it's the first valve adjustment ?
Click to expand...

you may want to check if the nuts holding the head down have been torqued to spec
 
When I put my cover back on after my adjustment I also replaced the half moons which were leaking beforehand. And leaked afterwards too, I propped the cover back up and put a coat of permatex where the half moons go and retighten the cover no leaks. So you might want to save yourself the trouble and do it the first time. Good luck.
 
As TKent says you shouldn't spin the motor with the shims out. This means once you've got 1 shim out you won't be able to remove the others (I guess you've already worked that out).

However, there is a nice dodge that can help you out here - possibly as I don't know what size coins you have over there. If you can find a coin the same size - diameter as near as possible, don't worry about the thickness as it'll be close enough - simply swap the shims you want to change with a coin until you've got all 3 out. Do your swap at the dealer and then remove the coins one at a time replacing with the shims.
 
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