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    #1

    starter button malfunction

    The starter button is not working on my 82 gs 650g. No clicking or anything, no response at all when pressed in. Earlier today I noticed it didn't start the first time I pressed the button in, but it did start the second time I pressed it. I never had that happen before, so I tried this 3 more times, and twice it didn't start on the first press (no response at all), but did on the 2nd, then the 3rd time it started on the first press. 2 hours later, can't get it to start at all. Like I mentioned there is no clicking, just silence when the button is pressed in. Anybody else have a similar experience?

    - Brad
    Tags: None
    #2
    Bypass the clutch interlock switch.
    1983 GS 1100E w/ 1230 kit, .340 lift Web Cams, Ape heavy duty valve springs, 83 1100 head with 1.5mm oversized SS intake valves, 1150 crank, Vance and Hines 1150 SuperHub, Star Racing high volume oil pump gears, 36mm carebs Dynojet stage 3 jet kit, Posplayr's SSPB, Progressive rear shocks and fork springs, Dyna 2000, Dynatek green coils and Vance & Hines 4-1 exhaust.
    1985 GS1150ES stock with 85 Red E bodywork.

    Comment

      #3
      Check the battery cable connections and then maybe spray some contact cleaner in the starter button.

      Just guessing.....
      82 1100 EZ (red)

      "You co-opting words of KV only thickens the scent of your BS. A thief and a putter-on of airs most foul. " JEEPRUSTY

      Comment

        #4
        Hi, yes the same thing has happened to my GS's at times. The fix for mine was to clean the spring loaded brass contacts in the starter switch. The spring and contact are on the other end of the starter button and is not much trouble to sort out once you drop the switch block off. Just be careful the spring doesn't fly off and roll under the bench or the dog eat eat it. Clean the build up of gunge from the contacts with some fine steelwool or scotch pad and put it back together, cheers.
        Badgezz, we don need noh stinkin' badgezz!
        Shin-Ken 1074
        1982 GSX1100SXZ Wire Wheel Katana - BOM Nov 2011
        1981 GSX1135 Katana Build completed Mar 2024, Curb Weight, all fluids and 21 lt fuel = 206 kg.

        Comment

          #5
          Problem solved

          Did some more messing around with it and realized that it was not recognizing the clutch being pulled in. I have to press the clutch lever upwards in order for it to work, the clutch lever is just too loose.

          - Brad

          Comment

            #6
            The clutch lever switch and brake light switch on the brake lever work the same, a copper "u" with a spring in it slide across 2 copper contacts on a board. They become dirty over time and make poor contact. You can take it apart and shine up the"u" and contacts on the board with some steel wool and use some dielectric grease on them and just put them back together and they should work fine. If the spring gets lost of is rusted away you can use a spring from an old ball point pen just cut it to length.
            Good luck.

            Comment

              #7
              Nah, just bypass it. Start it up with full choke in first gear
              1983 GS 1100E w/ 1230 kit, .340 lift Web Cams, Ape heavy duty valve springs, 83 1100 head with 1.5mm oversized SS intake valves, 1150 crank, Vance and Hines 1150 SuperHub, Star Racing high volume oil pump gears, 36mm carebs Dynojet stage 3 jet kit, Posplayr's SSPB, Progressive rear shocks and fork springs, Dyna 2000, Dynatek green coils and Vance & Hines 4-1 exhaust.
              1985 GS1150ES stock with 85 Red E bodywork.

              Comment

                #8
                Originally posted by chef1366 View Post
                Nah, just bypass it. Start it up with full choke in first gear
                i bypassed it, even with full choke and the bike in first once it was not enough to roll the bike off the kickstand..

                Comment

                  #9
                  bushings and shims can be used to tighten up a loose lever.
                  http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v5...tatesMap-1.jpg

                  Life is too short to ride an L.

                  Comment

                    #10
                    Originally posted by chef1366 View Post
                    Nah, just bypass it. Start it up with full choke in first gear
                    you are a very funny guy
                    '85 GS550L - SOLD
                    '85 GS550E - SOLD
                    '82 GS650GL - SOLD
                    '81 GS750L - SOLD
                    '82 GS850GL - trusty steed
                    '80 GS1100L - son's project bike
                    '82 GS1100G - SOLD
                    '81 GS1100E - Big Red (daily rider)

                    Comment

                      #11
                      I found the comments interesting about the clutch lever. I have the same problem on a 82 GS1100GL. I took the switch apart and cleaned it. No good. I thought it was a wiring problem. Never turned up. Finally my Mech. friend taped the solinoid with a hammer. No problems since then. May be buying time, but we'll see. Good Luck.

                      Comment

                        #12
                        same switch

                        That's interesting that the clutch lever switch and the brake light/brake lever switch are the same type of set up, because my brake light doesn't come on when I use the front brake. They probably both are similarly messed up, I haven't tried to find them yet, I'll clean them as suggested.

                        Thanks
                        - Brad

                        Comment

                          #13
                          Originally posted by radbrad View Post
                          That's interesting that the clutch lever switch and the brake light/brake lever switch are the same type of set up, because my brake light doesn't come on when I use the front brake. They probably both are similarly messed up, I haven't tried to find them yet, I'll clean them as suggested.

                          Thanks
                          - Brad
                          There's a better switch design now a banjo bolt with a pressure switch inside. Do a search.
                          http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v5...tatesMap-1.jpg

                          Life is too short to ride an L.

                          Comment

                            #14
                            Rad -

                            Had a similar problem with my rear brake not turning the tail light on. The switch is underneath the brake lever and easy to take apart. Just don't drop any small parts.

                            Ended up lightly sanding the copper contacts and now my light works well.

                            Comment

                              #15
                              Originally posted by lucabond View Post
                              The clutch lever switch and brake light switch on the brake lever work the same, a copper "u" with a spring in it slide across 2 copper contacts on a board. They become dirty over time and make poor contact. You can take it apart and shine up the"u" and contacts on the board with some steel wool and use some dielectric grease on them and just put them back together and they should work fine. If the spring gets lost of is rusted away you can use a spring from an old ball point pen just cut it to length.
                              Good luck.
                              Ahh haa! Just the info I was looking for. I just got an '82 550LZ with the same problem, now I know what I'll be doing tonite! Thanks!

                              Comment

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