Announcement

Collapse
No announcement yet.

Plug fouling 82gs550l

Collapse
X
 
  • Filter
  • Time
  • Show
Clear All
new posts

    Plug fouling 82gs550l

    So I just got done replacing all my o-rings in the carbs and intake so it was all good, so I thought. The reason I replaced the o-rings in the carb and intake was because because I would pull up to a stop sign and engine would lean out and die right away. Also because spark plug one kept fouling out after about a mile or two. So now I have all the problems fixed and I can pull up to a stop sign and idle for about ten secounds then I lose cylinder one completly and the bike dies but I keep losing cylinder one to a fouled out spark plug at idle or while driving down the road. while i was taking the carbs apart I noticed that carb one had a differnt niddle in it. I tryed to blow air threw it and it didnt leak i just had to ajust the float a little more then the rest I guess I am wondering if the fuel level in the bowl is to high if that would cause this kind of problem I have gotten so desperate to find the problem that I scraped some of the residue off the top of the piston and tasted it. it didnt taste like gas or oil so maybe its carbun? I did a compression check on it and it had about two percent leakage that was getting past the rings and out the oil fill cap. I would like to find the problem because this bike is fouling out and eatting that one plug like a fat kid at a country buffet.
    Last edited by Guest; 09-13-2008, 08:22 PM.

    #2
    Swap plug wires 1&4 see if it transfers to cyl 4. If not you still have carb problems. Did you dip the carbs ??? The BS/CV carbs cannot be too clean.....

    Comment


      #3
      Taste like chicken?
      1983 GS 1100E w/ 1230 kit, .340 lift Web Cams, Ape heavy duty valve springs, 83 1100 head with 1.5mm oversized SS intake valves, 1150 crank, Vance and Hines 1150 SuperHub, Star Racing high volume oil pump gears, 36mm carebs Dynojet stage 3 jet kit, Posplayr's SSPB, Progressive rear shocks and fork springs, Dyna 2000, Dynatek green coils and Vance & Hines 4-1 exhaust.
      1985 GS1150ES stock with 85 Red E bodywork.

      Comment


        #4
        Dejavu

        Sounds like my problem..past problem. Soak them carbs minimum 24 hours. Get a 6 pack of carb cleaner, a few cans of compressed air, carbs kits, new plugs,O-rings and a bottle of Jack Daniels and some Pizza. Take them suckers apart about 12 times, put them back on the bike and find that the one cylinder you were having the problem works fine but now a different one is screwed up? What the heck? Go to bed drunk, get yelled at by the wife, get no sleep cause you got heartburn, wake-up with a hangover and repeat all the above steps.

        Worked for me........................

        Comment


          #5
          I did switch plug wires before I did the cleaning and still had the same problem and I had carb one sitting in mineral spirits for a week. This spark plug is like black though and look alot like it is being oil fouled but with two percent leakage?

          Comment


            #6
            Originally posted by Newbee View Post
            Sounds like my problem..past problem. Soak them carbs minimum 24 hours. Get a 6 pack of carb cleaner, a few cans of compressed air, carbs kits, new plugs,O-rings and a bottle of Jack Daniels and some Pizza. Take them suckers apart about 12 times, put them back on the bike and find that the one cylinder you were having the problem works fine but now a different one is screwed up? What the heck? Go to bed drunk, get yelled at by the wife, get no sleep cause you got heartburn, wake-up with a hangover and repeat all the above steps.

            Worked for me........................
            Some of that is good advice, but I prefer a more civilized approach.
            Get the tools and maybe the pizza, skip the Jack. If you are drunk while working on the bike, what guarantee do you have that you have done it right, or even done it at all? Stay sober, do the job right, keep the wife from screaming at you, avoid the heartburn, it's a win-win situation all around.
            The icing on the cake there is that you will probably only have to do it ONE time, not twelve, so you will actually be out there riding quicker.
            And if you find that a different cylinder is crapping out each of the twelve times that you do it, I want to see your bike. I know of only one bike that has 12 cylinders, and it is a custom-made Kawasaki.



            Originally posted by Thelen82gs550l View Post
            ... and I had carb one sitting in mineral spirits for a week.
            I don't know that mineral spirits is the proper cleaner for carb parts. Your best bet is a can of Berryman's Carb Cleaner Dip or a can of Gunk brand Carb Dip. Both of these are gallon-size cans with about 3 quarts of fluid in them, along with a basket to lift your parts out without fishing for them. Remove all the jets and needles and o-rings from the carbs (leave the throttle plates in) and dip all the mettalic parts for about 24 hours. When you take the parts out, rinse them in warm water. Take a piece of electrical wire that has been stripped back about an inch, fold one of the strands of copper away from the rest, use that strand to poke through all the holes on the jets to loosen the crud that has been softened by the dip. Now put on your safety glasses, use the carb cleaner spray to blow the crud away, then flush it with the compressed air. Check again with the spray cleaner to make sure all the openings are really open, then re-assemble with new o-rings. Make sure your float levels are set to proper specs and that you are measuring to the correct part of the float.

            In your original post, you have conflicting information. You say the bike will "lean out and die right away", but it also fouls a plug. These two just don't go together. Plugs foul because they are running too rich or are being fouled by oil. Your test shows that it's not likely oil, so look to the carbs. My guess would be that the carbs are just not as clean as they should be, and a good cleaning and adjusting will fix your problems.

            By the way, I have never heard of anyone tasting the build-up in an engine to diagnose it. Smelling has always sufficed for me.

            .
            sigpic
            mine: 2000 Honda GoldWing GL1500SE and 1980 GS850G'K' "Junior"
            hers: 1982 GS850GL - "Angel" and 1969 Suzuki T250 Scrambler
            #1 son: 1986 Yamaha Venture Royale 1300 and 1982 GS650GL "Rat Bagger"
            #2 son: 1980 GS1000G
            Family Portrait
            Siblings and Spouses
            Mom's first ride
            Want a copy of my valve adjust spreadsheet for your 2-valve per cylinder engine? Send me an e-mail request (not a PM)
            (Click on my username in the upper-left corner for e-mail info.)

            Comment


              #7
              well i looked over the carbs really closely and replaced the o-rings and the PO had cleaned them before and didnt replace the o-rings. the three other cylinders were leaning out because the intake o-rings were leaking. now that problem is fixed and the three other cylinders run perfect and if cylinder one is up to firing it idles just fine. but when i loose that cylinder it will quit. I guess my main question really is that if that niddle that I was talking about and the fuel level is higher in the bowl then it should be. if then it would that cause plug problems. The way I figure it, the jets only going to let so much fuel get though.

              Comment


                #8
                so just for kicks I Decided to move the throttle plate a little bit so it has some more air and problem is gone for the night

                Comment

                Working...
                X