ignition problem? no spark in 1 and 4?

[gumballmechanic]

This is all new to me so I am probably missing something simple? I purchased a 1979 gs550e with 20,000 in non running condition. After changing the gas and cleaning the carbs, it is running great on cylinders 2 and 3. Being as these are connected to the coil on the right, I figured the coil on the left must be bad. I tried switching the good one for the "bad" one and I could not get it running on 1 and 4. Just to confirm it was not the coil, I put the suspect coil on the right and the bike fired right up on 2 and 3. Now I know my coils are fine and here I am scratching my head looking for some advice?

[hampshirehog]

Have you got sparks on 1 and 4? If not it could be something as simple as the points or a lose wire between the points and the coil.

[gumballmechanic]

Have you got sparks on 1 and 4? If not it could be something as simple as the points or a lose wire between the points and the coil.

No spark in either. I haven't checked the points yet as I was sure they would need adjusting once I got her running. I am currently going over the wiring. I checked the ignition connector behind the headlight and hit it with some contact spray as suggested in another "spark" thread. Still nothing. I guess I will turn my attention to the points? Thanks for taking the time to respond.

[Hoges]

Yep,sounds like contact points are due for a clean.

[gumballmechanic]

Looking in my Clymer, adjusting the points sounds a little tricky for a newbie. It doesn't really cover cleaning them. I guess I was under the impression that if my points were bad or dirty the bike wouldn't run at all. As it is, cylinders 2 and 3 run great. I guess before I take the full on points plunge I am just hoping for some re-assurance that I am looking in the right direction. Could the points be "half working"?

[rudy]

There's a set of contact points for the 1 and 4 coil, and another for the 2 and 3 coil. Take them both apart and inspect the contacts. If they're pitted, get new ones, they're cheap. If they're dirty, clean them and re-install. You'll have to adjust your points gap, and ignition timing as well. I'd invest in a timing light to set the timing. Static timing the ignition is possible with a circuit tester light or digital multimeter, but the timing light is still the best, quickest and easiest.

[gumballmechanic]

There's a set of contact points for the 1 and 4 coil, and another for the 2 and 3 coil. Take them both apart and inspect the contacts. If they're pitted, get new ones, they're cheap. If they're dirty, clean them and re-install. You'll have to adjust your points gap, and ignition timing as well. I'd invest in a timing light to set the timing. Static timing the ignition is possible with a circuit tester light or digital multimeter, but the timing light is still the best, quickest and easiest.

As per your recommendation, I just went out and checked my points. They really don't look to good although the points for 2 and 3 are dirtier than the points 1 and 4. Anyways, I took them off and cleaned them up real nice with some 200 grit and I put her back together but I still have nothing in 1 and 4. Could the points "look alright" but still not be functional? Without a gapping tool could I have set it too far apart? I do plan on getting a timing light but I am hoping to get her running before I start fine tuning. Is this a reasonable thought?

[MellowMoodz]

Any more info on this? I just changed out my R/R last night and when I started the bike up I cylinder's 2 & 3 were hot at the Exhaust but 1 & 4 were dead cold. At this point it was late so I went to bed. Came to work this morning and did a search and found this thread. Just looking at suggestions for my next step.

[bosshog21]

My fellow freind

I just when thru the same problem as you.A bad condenser is the problem.
I also had a bad coil, bad points will still spark any time just not consistent is all.
It your condenser on 1-4.I put my dynatek in and the bike fire right up.
I check the coils on my new coils one was 3.9 moms and the other one zero.
I try the old coils with the dynatek (a breakerless system 125!)It fire right up and ran smooth.
My condenser was bad and not the original coils.
I put the dynatek in and it reverse the problems because now I had a brand new bad coil.
Switch you bike over for 125 buck you can't go wrong.
I have a contact to buy it if you need him.
Joe
1979 Suzuki gs 100 almost done!!

[gumballmechanic]

I sort of got frustrated with this and switched my attentions to my cb750f project but I really appreciate the response and before this day is over I will be ordering new points and condensers. I might go breakerless in the future but before I start making any mods I want to get her running as is. Thanks again and I will certainly let you know how it goes. You people are friendly and helpful!

[GavinJuice]

Just to let you know, points should be plated in silver to handle the constant arcing. Sanding them down removes that fine layer and they'll wear out much faster now. Better to replace, they should be cheap. If you need to clean them, take a strip of paper and dip in acetone or spray with contact cleaner and dragggggg them through.

[ryonker]

An easy way to check to see if you are getting anything down to the points is to watch it run with the plate off. In my dark garage, I can see when the points are gapped correctly and working. they show a nice little spark.

Once when I replaced the points, 1 and 4 weren't firing and I could see I had actually installed this point incorrectly (ie. no spark, no sign of firing).

New points and condesors made a HUGE difference for my bike!

Good luck!

ps. A coil relay mod may be in order to, as this affects spark as well

[GavinJuice]

When a condenser goes bad, that set of points should spark pretty good when they OPEN. Their job is to hold back that spark from happening so no misfires can occur.

[arcturius]

Did you end up getting it going?

I just had this problem last night on my 79 GS1000E; except it was 1&4 firing, and 2&3 were dead.

I took the points out and filed them until they made nice square contact with each other again (had a nasty 'v', only making contact at one edge) and reset the gap to .014". I just lined up the timing mark, then let the spring on the points pinch the feeler guage, and wiggled it a bit to let the spring work itself into the correct spot, then tightened the screw and rechecked a few times, spinning the engine over between checks.
My timing was way off, too, so I fixed that. Do yourself a favor and buy a timing light...my bike was off about 15 degrees on 2&3 and about 5 on 1&4. After less than 5 minutes of fiddling it was running better than ever.

I've also read that sanding the points is bad since it leaves residue behind...definitely clean the points with some solvent. Another tip I've heard is to drag a dollar bill between the points a few times to polish them up. I'm not sure how well that works with non-American, or even the newer bills, though--it comes from working on tractors long ago. I was satisfied with what the file did.