Checking a non-running engine

[almarconi]

Just wanted to throw this out there..how much would it cost to purchase another motor or partial motor from the UK or Australia and have it shipped to you?

[psyguy]

Just wanted to throw this out there..how much would it cost to purchase another motor or partial motor from the UK or Australia and have it shipped to you?

to be exact, it would cost "heaps"

finding an engine in Aussie would be as much of a problem as finding it here and shipping (at least for smaller bike parts) costs as much as shipping from the usa (i know... unbelievable )

shipping from the uk costs more than from the usa - and as a comparison, shipping a bike from california to new zealand is around us$1000

this particular engine i am talking about is off a spare bike a mate of mine got when he recently purchased his 1100g and he's happy for me to make use of it if i can. the frame is bent, quite a few parts are missing and the bike is not registered so, it'd be very difficult to get that bike on the road again

[GSJim69]

NDT Inspection

Liquid penetrant inspection (LPI) can only detect surface cracks. If there is a sub-surface crack LPI would not detect it. To detect surface and sub-surface cracks use eddy current or ultrasonic inspection.
If you have a shop that could perform one of these inspection methods you could feel assured that it is totally crack free.

[psyguy]

...call Bert Munroe...

lol
when i last checked on him, he was in your neck of woods, in that salty place... what was the name again? ... he was breaking some of your speed records, on a home-made bicycle

[psyguy]

this is the bugger...

[psyguy]

note the "safely plugged" drain hole!!!

yup, the drain hole plugged with red silicone

[psyguy]

taking the bits off the engine today i discovered that the crankcases have already been welded in the area behind the rotor (where the main point of impact must have been)

not sure what to make of it... did the engine run after the repair?... or did they try to fix it but really couldn't?


i'll continue taking things appart and make posts here - and your comments are most appreciated


it would really suck to throw the money into this thing and find out the hard way it wasn't worth it - on the other hand, there really isn't any alternative given there are no good engines available on the market here

[Nessism]

Welded crankcases don't sound good. You plan on splitting the cases and checking everything out right?

[psyguy]

You plan on splitting the cases and checking everything out right?

that's the plan... plus posting pics and asking you guys a lot of questions

[Dogma]

...
i turned the engine by hand to run the exposed rotor against a straight edge - to check for any run-out (as that's where the engine was hit) - i could detect only a minimal runout (like 0,5mm or less)
...

Half a mm? Is that correct? The 850 FSM allows no more than 0.05 mm runout on the crank. I would expect similar for the 1100. If that's not a typo, I'd be wanting to pull that rotor off and check the crank itself.

[psyguy]

Half a mm? Is that correct? The 850 FSM allows no more than 0.05 mm runout on the crank. I would expect similar for the 1100. If that's not a typo, I'd be wanting to pull that rotor off and check the crank itself.

no, not a typo... but not an accurate measurement either (kind of "by eye")
i'm splitting the cases and having everything checked - including the crank for the runout

does the rotor have to come off to check the runout?

[Dogma]

no, not a typo... but not an accurate measurement either (kind of "by eye")
i'm splitting the cases and having everything checked - including the crank for the runout

does the rotor have to come off to check the runout?

I would think so. Otherwise you're checking runout of crank + rotor. I don't fully remember what the rotor looks like, but if there is a hub where it fits onto the crank, you could indicate on that instead of the rotor OD. That should get a pretty good reading, since the hub will probably not deform before the rest of the rotor is destroyed.

Anyhow, I'm thinking (hoping) that it's the rotor that's bent, and not the crank. I couldn't find a runout limit for the rotor in my manual. My memory of the fit in the stator is that 0.5 mm runout would cause rubbing. I'm almost certain it would cause a nasty vibration.

[psyguy]

good point about possibly the stator only being bent and not the shaft, haven't thought about that
anyhow, will take the crank to the shop and see what they say

[psyguy]

buggered a few screws today...

the usual suspects - those nasty philips head set screws behind the clutch... so will have to drill them out

my chinese made impact driver bit broke in the process!

i know, i know, buy a good quality tool and have it for life

[Steve]

my chinese made impact driver bit broke in the process!

i know, i know, buy a good quality tool and have it for life

You can have your Chinese made driver for life, too.






If you can find all the pieces.

.