I screwed up big this time...

[jmanz6]

M6 = 6mm, not sure the pitch though. Take one of the studs with you to the hardware store and match it up. Should only cost a couple bucks.

[zach_denver]

I think they're garden-variety M6's, but as jmanz recommends, take one with you to the hardware store to compare. Some lock washers would be a good idea too.

[Draketh]

SUCCESS!

Thank you everyone who posted in this thread and helped me.

I went to Ace hardware, found three bolts that matched up with the studs, and got a split ring lock washer for each one and everything is working great, just got home from a nice evening ride and not one drip of oil anywhere!

[J_C]

Draketh, I don't have any experience with this, but I recall posts in the past where bolts were not the recommended route. The reason was that the aluminum engine block is obviously softer than steel. If you are continually screwing bolts in and out, then the threads in the block will strip in short order. The bolts will work fine now, but the next time you need an oil change you may want to replace them with the appropriate sized studs (you can locktite them in, and the chances of stripping on a steel stud are far less likely).

I hope this makes sense, let me know if need further clarification. FWIW I will need to do this to one of my studs next time I swap out the filter.

[Steve]

Now that you have a temporary solution to your immediate problem of a severe oil leak ...

please consider a more-permanent solution. Every time you change the oil, you will be adding a little more wear on the threaded holes in the case when you remove, then re-install the bolts. Fixing those worn-out holes will not be fun. Get the parts to do the job right. Get new studs and nuts to put back in there. It is better to have the wear happen on a replaceable part than it is to have it happen in the aluminum case.

edit: Looks like J_C had the same idea, but typed a bit quicker.


.

[J_C]

Steve hit the nail on the head; that's what I was trying to say. Thanks Steve!

[xDownSetx]

Maybe buy a full set of studs for the next oil change and put them in then? The point of the studs is so you strip them out instead of stripping the case out, now that's bad news and harder to fix.

Edit: heh, seems JC, Steve, and I were on the same level. They just typed faster.

[duaneage]

+Use a torque wrench and tighten to about 6 lbs each. They don't require a lot of tightening.

[bwringer]

+Use a torque wrench and tighten to about 6 lbs each. They don't require a lot of tightening.

Agreed -- they need very little torque. However, it's impossible to find a torque wrench that goes that low reliably for less than $80-$100. I don't have one, and I doubt I ever will.

I use a nut driver to install these nuts simply because it's a lot harder to get a good enough grip to over-torque.

These studs strip on every GS engine sooner or later. Instead of installing the same crappy low-rent studs from Suzuki, I install stainless steel studs from McMaster-Carr. The stainless is much harder, so the threads should wear less.

The thread is M6X1.0mm, by the way.

[zach_denver]

Now that you have a temporary solution to your immediate problem of a severe oil leak ...

please consider a more-permanent solution. Every time you change the oil, you will be adding a little more wear on the threaded holes in the case when you remove, then re-install the bolts. Fixing those worn-out holes will not be fun. Get the parts to do the job right. Get new studs and nuts to put back in there. It is better to have the wear happen on a replaceable part than it is to have it happen in the aluminum case.

Sounds like sage advice...

[ned37]

jam 2 nuts (6x1.0)

like they say, get the studs

[KurtAZ]

You guys rock...I was just doing an oil change on a "new to me" 83 GS750 and this exact thing happened. 3 6mmx1 screws, lockwashers and gasket sealant later and it's all taken care of.

I love this site.