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GS1000 engine overhaul

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    GS1000 engine overhaul

    I started pulling my engine apart tonight. Took a good half hour to get the head off. Fair bit of corrosion and crap rammed into the spaces where the head studs are, plus the head gasket wouldn't let go without a fight. Well, getting the head off was the easy part. Now to get the jugs off. Oh boy, this is gonna be impossible. I tried prying it up in certain areas with no luck. I actually put a nice little bend into my tire iron while trying to pry on it, and those things are springy and STRONG. This base gasket will NOT let go! I started looking around the block for solid things to pry on. Found a little eye on the right hand front of the top case, just under the right side of the jugs. Is this a place where you're supposed to put a bolt with a nut on it and jack the jugs off the cases? I noticed the same idea for what I assumed was for separating the cases. I don't want to break any fins, or that little eye. Is this something I should be concerned about? Otherwise, what's a good way to get these apart?

    Also, I was thinking about tearing the whole engine down (original plan was just to do the top end to fix the leaks) and media blast and paint it silver back to it's original glory. I thought, might as well since I'm most of the way there. No sense half-a$$ing it if I'm going all out on the rest of the bike. Opinions anyone?

    #2
    to separate the jugs from the cases i used a block of wood and a rubber mallet, worked my way all around the jugs hitting them from the side as well as in the 45deg upwards direction

    prying is generally not a good idea as alu is easily damaged

    that "eye" thingy sticking out from the cases in two places, i have no idea what those are for but it did always intrigue me
    GS850GT

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      #3
      Ha, I should have mentioned. I've already ruined a hammer doing that. Chewed it to pieces on the fins. Hit it every which way possible, in every location. Prying was my last resort, and believe me, I was very careful.

      I might pick up a bigger hammer tomorrow. I don't really want to whack it too hard, but this needs to come apart. Of all the engines I've taken apart, this one is giving me the most trouble.

      Comment


        #4
        Welcome to a whole new world of cussing and swearing! Those blocks can be real swines to shift. A couple of pointers:

        The space in the holes where the front studs run through the block can get filled with crud / rusted stud etc. Try cleaning this out with whatever cleaning agents you can lay your hands on and then squirt in some penetrating oil and leave to soak in. Then try undoing the studs - I prefer not to take them right out but just undo 3-4 turns then re-tighten. Do that several times until they twist freely. Often it's the studs that are holding on the block rather than the gasket.

        For shifting the base gasket, if you are prepared to repaint the motor, run some Nitromors paint stripper around the edge of where the gasket sits. Gently push this and the dissolving gasket inwards using a feeler gauge - take care not to mark the gasket mount surfaces.

        As above, nice gentle tapping with a soft headed mallet is the way to go. Don't be tempted to lever the thing off as you can easily damage that soft alloy. Having said that, you can get a lever on a few spots where the block doesn't seat on anything - there are several (4? 2 on the back 2 on the front - may be more but I can't remember) alloy circles on the bottom of the block that you can pry at gently.

        I've heard tale of people resorting to hacksawing the block off in bits. I've never had to do this and I've shifted some pretty damn stuck (UK salt stuck!) blocks. Patience is your friend here.
        Last edited by hampshirehog; 09-20-2008, 01:25 PM. Reason: bad spelling....
        79 GS1000S
        79 GS1000S (another one)
        80 GSX750
        80 GS550
        80 CB650 cafe racer
        75 PC50 - the one with OHV and pedals...
        75 TS100 - being ridden (suicidally) by my father

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          #5
          Methinks the crud around the studs is the problem too. I put some penetrating oil around the studs last night before I accepted defeat. One of the studs came out when I tried to undo the nut. It was covered in sand and white corrosion. So, looks like I'm gonna loosen each stud. Gotta go buy a new hammer and some other tools first. Thanks for the pointers!

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            #6
            I got all the studs except for the inner rear two on either side of the cam chain tunnel. Those two are going to be a PITA. I've hit them on the end with a hammer and soaked them in fluid film. There's little holes at the back base of the jugs that I imagine go to the studs. I sprayed fluid film in there as well. No dice yet, but I've come to realize that I'll need a new stud set. Does anyone know if and where they are available?

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              #7
              Someone make suitable studs, if not Suzuki some other source.
              Just a thought, when you finally get the cylinder to let go, all that sand, gunk, munge, corrosion, grease, goo and some other stuff will fall down into the crankcase. Might be a good idea to tip the whole thing over first so that stuff falls away from the case?
              http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v5...tatesMap-1.jpg

              Life is too short to ride an L.

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                #8
                u can get the studs here http://gszone.biz/studs.html

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                  #9
                  I kinda figured that Tom. I've decided I'll take the bottom end apart as well. I'll be blasting the cases and painting. I'll clean everything at that point as well.

                  I'll start searching for some replacement studs. I think its a good idea to get all new ones instead of using some of the old ones and some new ones.

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                    #10
                    Rudy! Rudy! Rudy! Rudy!

                    Remember that movie?
                    1983 GS 1100E w/ 1230 kit, .340 lift Web Cams, Ape heavy duty valve springs, 83 1100 head with 1.5mm oversized SS intake valves, 1150 crank, Vance and Hines 1150 SuperHub, Star Racing high volume oil pump gears, 36mm carebs Dynojet stage 3 jet kit, Posplayr's SSPB, Progressive rear shocks and fork springs, Dyna 2000, Dynatek green coils and Vance & Hines 4-1 exhaust.
                    1985 GS1150ES stock with 85 Red E bodywork.

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                      #11
                      Originally posted by chef1366 View Post
                      Rudy! Rudy! Rudy! Rudy!

                      Remember that movie?

                      Only every time I meet someone new and tell them my name. Lol


                      Did a little searching around for headstuds. Found this http://www.sudco.com/apeStud.html They're apparently meant for some serious engine, but should work for what I need them for. Really, depends on price. I'll check with Suzuki first though.

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                        #12
                        I bet the cylinder is stuck at the dowels and not the studs.
                        1983 GS 1100E w/ 1230 kit, .340 lift Web Cams, Ape heavy duty valve springs, 83 1100 head with 1.5mm oversized SS intake valves, 1150 crank, Vance and Hines 1150 SuperHub, Star Racing high volume oil pump gears, 36mm carebs Dynojet stage 3 jet kit, Posplayr's SSPB, Progressive rear shocks and fork springs, Dyna 2000, Dynatek green coils and Vance & Hines 4-1 exhaust.
                        1985 GS1150ES stock with 85 Red E bodywork.

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