Cam end float

[cyberdork]

Well I've started valve clearances for the first time ever. I need that tappet tool now. Think I should try running higher octane gas? I've already ran sea foam through my motor and changed plugs.

[TheCafeKid]

Well I've started valve clearances for the first time ever. I need that tappet tool now. Think I should try running higher octane gas? I've already ran sea foam through my motor and changed plugs.

NO!! IF you have a "pinging" or detonation issue already, high octane gas will only exacerbate the problem. These motors are NOT designed to run on that stuff. It has a low ignition point, which means it may pre-ignite, and because it ignites early, it may leave deposits in your motor, which will become redhot, and perpetuate the situation. Steve, and a few others here on the board, have explained in great detail why High octane gas is DEFINATELY not better in these machines.

[cyberdork]

Ahhh sorry, I was thinking in the opposite direction. On a side not it's a real PITA to work with the feeler gauges. The top of the valves have a dish shape so getting the feeler in there and flat is a bit of a problem.

[rapidray]

I have to disagree with Cafe here. I have been building GS motors since the late 70s & if a motor has a lot of carbon buildup in the chambers & piston tops, the compression can be higher than normal REQUIRING more octane to prevent detonation. You need to do a compression test & a leak down test to determine the shape of your engine. If it doesn't have more than 175 psi compression, you need to look elsewhere for your problem. PM me if you want my # so we can talk in depth about your possible sollutions. Good luck, Ray.

[cyberdork]

Cross country calling isn't exactly cheap heh. Do you by any chance have instant messager? Mine's NoNamedVisitor

[TheCafeKid]

I have to disagree with Cafe here. I have been building GS motors since the late 70s & if a motor has a lot of carbon buildup in the chambers & piston tops, the compression can be higher than normal REQUIRING more octane to prevent detonation. You need to do a compression test & a leak down test to determine the shape of your engine. If it doesn't have more than 175 psi compression, you need to look elsewhere for your problem. PM me if you want my # so we can talk in depth about your possible sollutions. Good luck, Ray.

No no Ray is right there. I simply assumed all things being equal that the motor is clean, or relatively so. Ray certainly has more experience than I, and yes the 16v bikes run a slightly higher compression from what ive read than the 8v. I wont run high octane in my bikes, but then, I also know that my pistons and chambers are relatively clean at the moment. I have always, however, agreed that high octane is simply a bandaid to fix the problems that occur when hotting up a motor. I will bow, however, to Ray's knowlege of the situation. I dont build race motors, I simply try to fix the ones i and other people break hehe

[cyberdork]

My #2 spark plug stripped and is now muscled into place. If I have to do a compression test it means I have to do a helicoil, which makes me nervous as anything, but eventually I'll have to change that plug.

[rapidray]

Helicoils are EASY! PM me & I'll give you all the info on where to buy the one you need to fix your problem. It screws right into the existing hole & cuts new threads for the helicoil & then you install the insert. NO drilling! Easy to do on the bike without removing the head! Ray.

[srsupertrap]

I performed 49er's Cam End Mod Float Mod

No not a tick, an actual kick where I can feel it buck up top. I haven't done valve clearances yet, I know I need to do them. Could anyone point me in the right direction?

1) The knock ( sounded like a rod knock to me ) is most pronounced at idle and disappears at approximately 1800 - 2000 rpm. The noise is generated when your cam thrust bearing contacts the cylinder head.

2) I was able to clearly hear the sound emenating from the cam bearing cap area when I held a long screw driver up against the valve cover.

3) Since you have the valve cover off? You can accurately measure the amount of total free play (space ) between your cam thrust bearing and the adjacent surface on the cylinder head. Measure both sides of course.

4) My GS1000 with 43K measured Exhaust: .071" & Intake: .055" but the noise was clearly coming from the intake cam. With the cams removed I could clearly see the the half moon contact area on the cylinder head.

Hope that helps.

[SqDancerLynn1]

You don't need the cam end float mod unless the noise really bothers you. Doesn't hurt anything. If you have problems with it pinging I would sugest checking the intake boots. As far as the spark plug ? Check the JC Whitney auto catalogue. They have a neat little kit for around $15 with timecerts to fix the spark plug threads

http://www.jcwhitney.com/autoparts/Product/Pr-p_Product.CATENTRY_ID:2004267/c-10614/Nty-1/p-2004267/Ntx-mode+matchallpartial/N-10614/tf-Browse/s-10101/Ntk-AllTextSearchGroup?Ntt=spark+plug+tools

[cyberdork]

Guessing I'd have to take the heads off for that? Also everyone is talking about cam end float, but then some say my bike can't experience that. Anyone know a deffinate answer if the 16 valves can get cam end float?

[rapidray]

In the 29 years I have been working on just the 16 valve Suzukis, I've never seen it on anything other than an 8 valver. Ray.

[cyberdork]

Oh sorry, didn't realize you were the first one to say that haha