GS1100SD Katana vs GS1100E Clutch Plates

[mjc]

Does anyone know the difference between the clutch plates for a 1983 GS1100SD and a 1980 GS1100E model? The schematics look the same, the hubs are the same number, though they call for different friction plates. Thanks Michael

[rapidray]

They ALL interchange, don't sweat it. Ray.

[Suzuki mad]

The official line is the part number are allowed to be used on the younger machine as its likely to have been superceeded but not older parts on the newer bikes.

So in theory you could used clutch plates from a SD on an E if they were the later part number but not the other way around.

Suzuki mad.

[rapidray]

NOT true Suzuki mad! ALL the GS1100E/ES/Katana 1100s from 82/83 & 1150 clutch plates interchange. Hope this helps. Ray.

[mjc]

Are you sure?

Just got off the phone with Barnett and they said that the friction plates had different cork - has anyone actually interchanged plates on the 83 SD from an older E or L? Thanks again for the help! Michael

[chef1366]

They are the same. Barnett sells a system with an extra fiber and steel. Don't get it. Only buy stock or FBG (fast by gas)

[rphillips]

I thought suzuki added plates in the "82" & newer model 1100's. The hubs were the same, so the plates should have been thinner, to fit. If you use the complete set of plates, early or late models, it would be fine, but mixing the thin plates with the older thicker ones could cause slight problems. I haven't looked it up, but will try tonight.

[focus frenzy]

for 1983 suzuki changed to thinner steels and frictions in the 1100E so they could get another pair in to better cope with the extra torque the 83 made.

the basket is the same, you can not mix and match plates and disc, but you can use a 83 set in a 80 bike or a 80 set in a 83 bike.

the older thicker plates work just fine in a 83, suzuki was worried with how long they would last. the thicker plates would be more resistant to heat warping from hard use.

[rapidray]

That's funny, I mix & match plates ALL the time to get the stack heights I want! Ray.

[mjc]

Ok- so if I have a new set of friction plates from a 1983 SD model, it's ok to use them on my 1980? Seems that if they're a bit thinner, the clutch could slip. The metal plates are the SAME number for all years - so looks like the friction plates make up the difference in thickness to accomodate the extra plate/spacer. Thanks for all the help!

[rphillips]

Found it, the early model 1100's had 9 friction & 9 steel plates, In "83" they changed to 10 friction & 11 steels. The steels stayed the same thickness, but the friction plates thickness was dropped from 2.9-3.1mm on the early models to 2.15-2.35mm in "83".

[blowerbike]

83 GS1100E/ES had steel backed fibers(10)
steel backed fibers such as barnett ect... destroys an alm. clutch basket. outer engagement dogs of the basket gets the crap beat out of them and makes a clutch jerky and not very smooth.
(((i would never mix alm. backed fibers and metal backed fibers togather.)))
ive done alot with clutches but never that!
the 83 plates to my knowlage have not been available for years and years unless someone has old stock laying around.
if you have the exrta cash, stick with the suzuki superceeded number fiber plates..
if not gast are pretty good but kinda agressive(even though they look identical to 80-82 1100***84-86 1150 fibers) they are not the same animal.

[bonanzadave]

83 GS1100E/ES had steel backed fibers(10)
steel backed fibers such as barnett ect... destroys an alm. clutch basket. outer engagement dogs of the basket gets the crap beat out of them and makes a clutch jerky and not very smooth.

Im here to tell ya.... I had a Barnett extra plate kit that really ate up my basket. This picture is after I filed out some of the chatter marks....

[Primo382]

Good evening everyone, you'll have to excuse me if my post is not in the proper place but I am still noobish. Anyhow my 83 GS1100ED has been parked in the garage for the last year and a half needing a little TLC that I'm finally getting around to doing (in 50 degree weather). I bought an EBC friction plate kit that has 10 plates when the ones that were in the bike had 9 frictions and 9 steels.

The friction disc thickness on the new EBC plates is roughly 2.3mm (.091in) and the old ones are still within the service limit at 2.9mm (.115in). Obviously I have a conflict as they have almost a 3.2mm (.125in) difference in stack height. I guess my question is <drum roll>... why did EBC sell me a "OE Replacement" friction set that's doesn't stack up. With the old plates still being with tolerance I'll probably stick them back in to get a couple passes down the track before the season is over but I'm a little cheesed off that I'm stuck with $130 in new plates that I can't use (without getting different steels). What kind of steels could I get to so I can use the new plates when these old ones begin to slip worse than before.

Since I measured them I'm beginning to think that the slight slipping and clutch engagement at the end of the lever travel may have been due to oil viscosity. Could that be a reasonable explanation?

I just had the basket redone (which was showing wear on the rear face of the drive gear) by Falicon and I still have a chatter. Now this may be a question for a different thread but how can I tell if the drive pinion needs replaced?

Thanks for reading this pile of jumbled thoughts... I've spent the last 3 hours in a smoke filled garage because I started the pig for the first time in 2 years and needless to say she was pouring like a smoke stack from an overfilled crankcase, oil on the header... and oh yeah, a rectifier that was cooking!

[chef1366]

Use the EBC. Don't be suprised if it chews up the inner and outer clutch hub a bit.
If the old fibers spec out I'd use them and get some new clutch springs.
Take some steel wool to the steels and get the glaze off of them.
I have an extra Honda R/R that will work on your bike.
I'm from Canton. (Actually Canal Fulton) Used to run around Akron quite a bit.