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Bought a GS1100E, Damn Oil Leak
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No you don't. I do stuff a rag into the cam chain tunnel to prevent them or a socket from dropping in.1983 GS 1100E w/ 1230 kit, .340 lift Web Cams, Ape heavy duty valve springs, 83 1100 head with 1.5mm oversized SS intake valves, 1150 crank, Vance and Hines 1150 SuperHub, Star Racing high volume oil pump gears, 36mm carebs Dynojet stage 3 jet kit, Posplayr's SSPB, Progressive rear shocks and fork springs, Dyna 2000, Dynatek green coils and Vance & Hines 4-1 exhaust.
1985 GS1150ES stock with 85 Red E bodywork.
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cromwell1234
thanks on the rag tip I will give it a shot, man it does look tight between the sprocket and #14 seal/bolt---Ill take your word for it!
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maro
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cromwell1234
hey maro/"jeff", if your doing the valve adjustment over the winter you might as well replace the 2.00 dollar seal and stop the oil leak, it starts as a couple of drops and ends up to be 1/3 quart every month, not to mention the crap gets all over the garage--and ****es the wife off-ah maybe i should leave it alone after all!
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maro
Originally posted by cromwell1234 View Posthey maro/"jeff"
lol
Originally posted by cromwell1234 View Post, if your doing the valve adjustment over the winter you might as well replace the 2.00 dollar seal and stop the oil leak, it starts as a couple of drops and ends up to be 1/3 quart every month, not to mention the crap gets all over the garage--and ****es the wife off-ah maybe i should leave it alone after all!
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cromwell1234
Sorry Josh, my brother is Jeff and my good buddy is Marco and i went to a public school in the city --what else can i say!
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cromwell1234
B-Dave, I'm sure you know this is the most common oil leak that is usually fixed with the seal nut, as far as the re-torque , Just unscrew them at least 3/4 of a turn before you re-torque(if you didn't already know that of course) anyway i have slowed leaks down in the past with the re-torque but once the oil finds a passage its tough to stop----some good pics under valve adjustment at this site; the Bike Cliff's Website under 16v adjustment--real good info/the best Ive seen---
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jwhelan65
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The three small bolts that are located at the ends of both sides of the head and the center front tend to leak oil through the threads. Buy some Permatex thread sealer and seal these. I chased my tail for awhile looking for these leaks.1983 GS 1100E w/ 1230 kit, .340 lift Web Cams, Ape heavy duty valve springs, 83 1100 head with 1.5mm oversized SS intake valves, 1150 crank, Vance and Hines 1150 SuperHub, Star Racing high volume oil pump gears, 36mm carebs Dynojet stage 3 jet kit, Posplayr's SSPB, Progressive rear shocks and fork springs, Dyna 2000, Dynatek green coils and Vance & Hines 4-1 exhaust.
1985 GS1150ES stock with 85 Red E bodywork.
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cromwell1234
Well I replaced the two rubber seals on both side of the cam chain--and still have the oil leak????any ideas?
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Hank.SD
I have the same problem on my '82. Once you pull those center stud nuts you can see if the leak was coming from there. Mine wasn't so I'm torn down now, doing top end gaskets, and while I'm there rings and valve seals.
Hope to pick up the parts today and start reassembly tomorrow.
BTW, my leak was not minor. I had cleaned it up and in 20 miles I had a slathered up mess.
Also, my head an cylinder were flat within .002, so I don't think I have a warp issue.
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cromwell1234
Thanks Hank, Yes my center studs were bone dry so it wasn't the rubber seals, Im told there is a gasket towards the center were the chain comes through that might be the problem.
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