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    GS1000 head studs

    I'm just putting the 1000 back together with new studs. Just wondering what's the best way to go about doing it and tightening them down. Do I have to put some kind of threadlock on for in the cases? A certain torque that I have to take them to? What kind of tool do I use? I used a pipe wrench to get them out as I couldn't find a stud extractor tool.

    #2
    This place sells stud remover and installers. http://www.schnitzracing.com/
    1983 GS 1100E w/ 1230 kit, .340 lift Web Cams, Ape heavy duty valve springs, 83 1100 head with 1.5mm oversized SS intake valves, 1150 crank, Vance and Hines 1150 SuperHub, Star Racing high volume oil pump gears, 36mm carebs Dynojet stage 3 jet kit, Posplayr's SSPB, Progressive rear shocks and fork springs, Dyna 2000, Dynatek green coils and Vance & Hines 4-1 exhaust.
    1985 GS1150ES stock with 85 Red E bodywork.

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      #3
      Best to clean the threads on the cases first and then apply a drop of thin oil to the studs. Put 2 nuts on the top of the studs and tighten together so you've effectively got a lock nut and then just wind in with a socket. Tighten until the threads are all down in to the cases - no need to go tighter than this. No need for any thread locker.

      You'll need a torque wrench when you've popped the head on and tighten the head nuts. They need to be tightened to 27lb-ft and the bolts on the outsides to 6.5 - 10lb-ft. Don't foget to use a light oil (3 in 1 is great) to get a good lube so you obtain accurate torque readings.
      79 GS1000S
      79 GS1000S (another one)
      80 GSX750
      80 GS550
      80 CB650 cafe racer
      75 PC50 - the one with OHV and pedals...
      75 TS100 - being ridden (suicidally) by my father

      Comment


        #4
        Originally posted by hampshirehog View Post
        Best to clean the threads on the cases first and then apply a drop of thin oil to the studs. Put 2 nuts on the top of the studs and tighten together so you've effectively got a lock nut and then just wind in with a socket. Tighten until the threads are all down in to the cases - no need to go tighter than this. No need for any thread locker.

        You'll need a torque wrench when you've popped the head on and tighten the head nuts. They need to be tightened to 27lb-ft and the bolts on the outsides to 6.5 - 10lb-ft. Don't foget to use a light oil (3 in 1 is great) to get a good lube so you obtain accurate torque readings.
        i was always brought up to believe that lubricating studs or nuts that have to be torqued should be done dry as obviously lubrication would mean the threads have less friction which would make the torque wrench setting innacurate as you would have to tighten the bolt or nut tighter than the actual reading on the torque wrench. just my opinion.
        1978 GS1085.

        Just remember, an opinion without 3.14 is just an onion!

        Comment


          #5
          I've also heard not to use oil on the bolts/nuts/studs that are going to be tightened with a torque wrench. The lubrication throws off the reading on the wrench. Best is to use a thread chaser - not a tap - to clean out the threads in the case, then be sure the top threads are clean when you put the nuts on and torque to spec. If there is dirt or grime on the threads you will also throw off the torque reading.

          Comment


            #6
            You're quite right to question whether the threads should be dry when using a torque wrench.

            The old boy who first taught me on the spanners explained to me that torque settings should be accompanied with a statement saying if the threads should be dry or, if lubed, the viscosity of the lubricant. However, I can't remember when I've seen this on a torque chart. (The old guy who taught me was an ex RAF engine fitter so this may still be the case in the aircraft industry where settings are more critical?)

            And of course the whole thing then gets some distortion when using Loktite; it will act as a lubricant in itself.

            I wouldn't use engine oil or, even worse, Molyslip where there could be serious distortions of torque readings but I've always found 3-in-One works as a thread cleaner (clean threads are a must) and makes threads 'feel' like new.
            79 GS1000S
            79 GS1000S (another one)
            80 GSX750
            80 GS550
            80 CB650 cafe racer
            75 PC50 - the one with OHV and pedals...
            75 TS100 - being ridden (suicidally) by my father

            Comment


              #7
              Thanks guys. Hope to get around to this tonight. I hope threads will be clean as the studs are new. Will put a wee squirt o' fluid film on there. Not really a lube as much as a penetrant, but gives a little slide to the threads.

              Just one more question. I bought new dome nuts for the outside studs. Is there any reason why not to use the old ones for the next studs in? They're still decent, but some surface rust. Just noticed all the other nuts are open, and rusted pretty bad. Dome nut might help with that a little better, and since I got them already, might as well use them. Just wondering if there was any reason why I shouldn't.

              Comment


                #8
                The only reason I can see that you couldn't re-use those dome nuts is if they don't have sufficient thread before torquing up. From memory I think there's plenty but worth checking. As all the head nuts should be torqued the same they are plenty strong enough.
                79 GS1000S
                79 GS1000S (another one)
                80 GSX750
                80 GS550
                80 CB650 cafe racer
                75 PC50 - the one with OHV and pedals...
                75 TS100 - being ridden (suicidally) by my father

                Comment

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