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    #16
    Originally posted by bwringer View Post
    II'm not entirely sure I'd trust an eBay no-name torque wrench, though.
    Neither would I. I'm suggesting buying a used name brand torque wrench on ebay for 1/4th of the new price. The one I got for $40 is $200 at Sears.
    Last edited by Guest; 10-22-2008, 12:38 PM.

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      #17
      Originally posted by bwringer View Post
      I stand corrected... Park makes good tools, and that's an excellent price.
      Better yet, I have a good friend that owns a bicycle shop so I got mine for significantly less.............

      Joe
      IBA# 24077
      '15 BMW R1200GS Adventure
      '07 Triumph Tiger 1050 ABS
      '08 Yamaha WR250R

      "Krusty's inner circle is a completely unorganized group of grumpy individuals uninterested in niceties like factual information. Our main purpose, in an unorganized fashion, is to do little more than engage in anecdotal stories and idle chit-chat while providing little or no actual useful information. And, of course, ride a lot and have tons of fun.....in a Krusty manner."

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        #18
        Joe, p_s, Brian, Wazz...thanks a ton for all the info. I picked up Helicoils at Autozone today during lunch, but I'll take them back and use the Permetex stuff instead.

        Whats one more trip to the parts store? I spend so much time there these days that they greet me like Norm from Cheers, except (unfortunate) for the big glass of beer.

        And I will try very hard not to park my bike by laying it on it's left side until I confirm that it does not leak much.

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          #19
          Originally posted by Joe Nardy View Post
          Here is a 0-60 inch-pound beam type bicycle torque wrench for $34.95.............
          Park tools are great. That's all I use for my bicycles.

          Originally posted by Joe Nardy View Post
          Permatex makes an epoxy-based thread repair that should be okay for this tye of repair: Permatex Thread Repair
          I've done this too and it worked fine.

          Originally posted by gbw View Post
          ... I spend so much time there these days that they greet me like Norm from Cheers, except (unfortunate) for the big glass of beer...
          My mechanic friend has a kegorator in his garage. I often end up there for boy's night out. One of our bud's owns a microbrewery and delivers a keg to him gratis! And yes, everyone knows my name.

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            #20
            IF there is enough meat around the boss drill and tap it for a 8 mm bolt.
            Re: torque wrenches - I have three including a 0-240 in/lb model that is perfect for small stuff. I never tighten anything without a torque wrench.
            1981 GS650G , all the bike you need
            1980 GS1000G Power corrupts, and absolute power corrupts absolutely

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              #21
              I'd still helicoil it but the Permatex stuff looks enticing. Do you still drill and tap it?
              1983 GS 1100E w/ 1230 kit, .340 lift Web Cams, Ape heavy duty valve springs, 83 1100 head with 1.5mm oversized SS intake valves, 1150 crank, Vance and Hines 1150 SuperHub, Star Racing high volume oil pump gears, 36mm carebs Dynojet stage 3 jet kit, Posplayr's SSPB, Progressive rear shocks and fork springs, Dyna 2000, Dynatek green coils and Vance & Hines 4-1 exhaust.
              1985 GS1150ES stock with 85 Red E bodywork.

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                #22
                Originally posted by chef1366 View Post
                I'd still helicoil it but the Permatex stuff looks enticing. Do you still drill and tap it?
                No drilling and tapping. Basically you fill the hole with the goop then insert the screw, coated with a release agent. When the goop hardens you unthread the screw and you're done.

                Thanks,
                Joe
                IBA# 24077
                '15 BMW R1200GS Adventure
                '07 Triumph Tiger 1050 ABS
                '08 Yamaha WR250R

                "Krusty's inner circle is a completely unorganized group of grumpy individuals uninterested in niceties like factual information. Our main purpose, in an unorganized fashion, is to do little more than engage in anecdotal stories and idle chit-chat while providing little or no actual useful information. And, of course, ride a lot and have tons of fun.....in a Krusty manner."

                Comment


                  #23
                  Originally posted by Joe Nardy View Post
                  No drilling and tapping. Basically you fill the hole with the goop then insert the screw, coated with a release agent. When the goop hardens you unthread the screw and you're done.

                  Thanks,
                  Joe
                  I picked up the goop last night and will do this in the next few days. I'll post some pics when I'm done.

                  Thanks for all the insight and assistance!

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                    #24
                    Where did you get it?
                    1983 GS 1100E w/ 1230 kit, .340 lift Web Cams, Ape heavy duty valve springs, 83 1100 head with 1.5mm oversized SS intake valves, 1150 crank, Vance and Hines 1150 SuperHub, Star Racing high volume oil pump gears, 36mm carebs Dynojet stage 3 jet kit, Posplayr's SSPB, Progressive rear shocks and fork springs, Dyna 2000, Dynatek green coils and Vance & Hines 4-1 exhaust.
                    1985 GS1150ES stock with 85 Red E bodywork.

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                      #25
                      Originally posted by chef1366 View Post
                      Where did you get it?
                      Murry's Auto Parts. Could have just as easily picked it up at any auto parts store, and maybe even Wallmart, but Murry's was on my way last night.

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                        #26
                        Originally posted by gbw View Post
                        or take my chances that this one screw will not really matter and I can fix it later.

                        Any advice or suggestions?
                        The screws are different lengths. Are you sure you put them all in the right holes? If you measure the depth of the tap hole sometimes you can add a few threads which is plenty for a non critical screw. Consider replacing with a stud and acorn nut with plain washers to make fit perfectly. Stators last for years if bullet connectors are replaced per this forum.

                        There is such a minor spray of oil in that casing to cool the stator and drive out moisture that even on the stand there is only 1/2 quart max while leaning. Only an ounce when vertical in riding position. Go ahead and test the stator no problem.

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                          #27
                          Thanks for your post!

                          Originally posted by twistedwankel View Post
                          The screws are different lengths.
                          Turns out they are all the same length on this cover. The primary drive cover screws are different lengths, but all the screws for my stator cover are the same length. I stripped it because I was using a torque wrench and was apply the torque associated with a M8 screw to a M6 screw. Just my own stupidity for not doublechecking the screw vs. torque.

                          Originally posted by twistedwankel View Post
                          Consider replacing with a stud and acorn nut with plain washers to make fit perfectly..
                          I will condiser this but am going to try the Permetex thread goop first.

                          Originally posted by twistedwankel View Post
                          There is such a minor spray of oil in that casing to cool the stator and drive out moisture that even on the stand there is only 1/2 quart max while leaning. Only an ounce when vertical in riding position.
                          This is good news for me. Thank you!

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